Nissan - Frontier :: 2011 - Jerky Ride At Highway Speeds


Jun 24, 2013

Two years ago a purchased a 2011 Nissan Frontier mid-sized pick-up, V-6, A/T, 4WD, long-bed (6’), crew cab four door. I drove it for a little over a year and it was all good, then I put an 800 lb. pop-up cab-over camper on it. When folded down, the top of the camper is about one foot above the top of the truck cab, with about a four inch space between the bottom of the cab-over and the top of the cab, and with the cab-over extending over the back two-thirds of the cab, so the whole thing creates quite a bit of wind resistance.

After installing the camper, I noticed a front-to-back jerking motion when driving the truck at highway speeds, sort of like when topping a steep hill and beginning to descend, some vehicles will lurch front-to-back until the drive train synchs up. It was cyclic – jerk 7 or 8 times, smooth out, then do it again. It wasn’t bad enough to cause vehicle control issues. I took it to the dealer and the initial diagnosis was that the automatic trans. was going in and out of lock-up. Then I drove the service manager around in it with his laptop scope plugged in to the engine, and he said he couldn’t see anything wrong with the drive train. He suggested running the rear tires at maximum pressure of 44 lbs., which I tried but which didn’t work.

I then had airbags installed to beef up the rear suspension, but that didn’t work. Finally I built a fairing/wind deflector and installed it on top of the cab, sloping at a 45 degree angle from the trailing edge of the windshield to the leading edge of the top of the camper. That didn’t work either, which surprised me because I had first experimented with the concept by duct-taping a sheet of cardboard in the same position as the fairing would ultimately be installed, and that seemed to work. The same jerking sensation can be felt when overdrive is engaged and when it is locked out, and it also occurs at slower speeds when decelerating. Is there anything I can do to smooth out the ride?

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A little background on my truck: Its a 2003 Nissan Frontier SE Crew Cab with a 3.3L V6 2wd, RWD AUTO. 78,000 miles. (yeah, I live in CO, so having this truck here doesn't really make sense when described through text, but with tire chains, and 200lbs in the bed it does better than most 4x4's if you know how to drive rwd! )

Anyways, I drove up to Aspen, CO and back from Colorado Springs (~575 miles roundtrip) for my rugby game and man did my truck have a hard time getting up the mountain passes. The speed limit in some places was 75 mph but I struggled to make it to 65 with the pedal floored-i think the grades were about 7% so not that much really for CO. I also noticed that my truck had trouble shifting into the right gear in my opinion.

I would be in 5th, and it felt like it would shift down to third and rev really high rather than shifting into 4th? My shifter knob has a button to turn off Overdrive, but i just didnt remember to turn it off and try driving like that, but would turning off OD make it up these mountain passes? If i can find some way to drive my truck up to Aspen without all the hastle (and embarassment) of not being able to go the speed limit, I would be so happy-that way I wouldn't have to drive our passat up there.

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We have been driving this way since May of 2005 (129,916 miles). We have TRIED to get it fixed. We have had it in shops all across the country (we travel a bit). We talk it up to people we meet who know cars. We have taken it to Nissan, with no results. NO ONE has solved the problem and we are out lots of money.

We are now at 205,000 miles. I would really like to get this fixed! We cannot afford to just buy a new car. Mechanics across the country have not solved this issue!

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - Extremely Hard Ride - Steering Wheel Jerky Over Bump?

I'm completely aware a lifted truck will not ride factory and most likely ride harder. But this is ridiculous.

So I bought a 8" super lift for my F250 7.3 2000, although the price is very cheap at that shipped to my door debating if I have messed up either with the brand or somewhere because I feel like I went from a casual ride in my lovely 7.3 to feeling like a horse carriage of a few century's ago.

Lift is setup with lift leaf springs in the front, one add a leaf in the rear with a block, and 4 new shocks and all the other hardware included to do the lift.

I'm wondering if it's possible the springs are installed wrong, or the shocks are just that bad or if there a weird issue I've over looked.

Tire pressure is set to 35-40 psi all around on toyo open country mts, (which I was running before the lift so that hasn't changed) but I mean this is so stiff that when I hit a bump my steering wheel jerks and I feel like my suspension has absolutely no flex in it. Debating on returning to stock or not at this point...

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It's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.

A little history of problems...

Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.

December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.

January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.

April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)

June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.

August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!

I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)

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Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.

We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?

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When I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?

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Nissan - Frontier :: 1999 - Overheating Over 45mph

I have read two other threads that indicate a leaky head gasket for Nissan Frontiers overheating...but I'd like an opinion on my problem: I have a 1999, v6 3.3L, 4x4, manual Frontier that I have owned since 2001, always well-maintained, timing belt, water pump and thermostat already replaced a couple of years ago; currently has 129k mi. I rarely drive it (about once or twice a month).

Last time I drove it (I'm in AZ and heat was over 100 degrees) it started right up and was fine until I'd gone about 3 miles on the freeway doing about 65mph. Started to climb in temperature, but not into the red zone. I drove with it hovering just above the midway point (midway meaning perfectly normal temperature on my gauge) for a couple of more miles, when it started to climb just a bit more, I got off the freeway and dropped under 45 mph, the temperature went down to normal. I drove about 40mph back home and haven't driven it since.

I checked my coolant, which was extremely clean and not low, and was not boiling when I checked it soon after the temp went up on the freeway. What is the most likely cause?On a side note, since I do not drive it that often, what is recommended as to the gas that has been sitting in my tank since? How long does the gas stay good for? Further wondering how often it is recommended I drive it, for how long and at what sustained speed to keep my truck up and running?

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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is a 4X4 and has the V6 engine. Mileage is 172,000+. For a few years, I have had problems with the AC no longer cooling after I drive 20 or so miles and stop the truck, go in a store and start back up only to find that the AC will not cool after the stop. This seems to happen more when the weather is hot. Only once has it gone out without stopping the car and it was on I40 driving trough Oklahoma in 100+ degree weather. Once it quits cooling, after driving 20 to 30 minutes, it usually starts to cool again. It sometimes speeds up the process if I roll the windows down.Coolant levels are fine.

So...is there a faulty sensor somewhere? What could it be that is the problem?

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We have a 2003 Nissan frontier pickup (automatic).The AC recently stopped cooling, but the fan works. It was cooling perfectly great when all of a sudden, it stopped. If we turn the AC on, the compressor (I'm guessing) starts to click and continues to click until turned off. (started to grind under hood). It's not a rattle, definitely a click as if it wants to turn on but can't make the electrical connection. It kind of sounds like when a starter has gone bad and it clicks. Except, it does it repetitively until turned off. This doesn't happen if we turn on the fan but leave the AC off. Does it sound like the compressor went out? How can we troubleshoot it?

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