Pickup - Chevrolet :: No Oil In Truck When Driving?
Nov 6, 2011
I have a 1996 Chevy pickup with a 5.7 motor. I pulled the plug, oil is draining and I usually lift the hood; but this time I didn't (don't know why). Something came up and we had to leave quickly and we jumped in the truck and got 1/8 mile down the road, I pulled the plug on the oil. Turned around and parked it - the oil filter was still in - so there should of been some oil in there!?!? Do I need to be concerned that I damaged anything?
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I have a 98 chevy truck and shortly after the mechanic put brakes on my truck, when I start it you cannot get it out of park. In fact sometimes when I can't get it out of park when I shut it off I have trouble removing the key from the ignition. I've found that when I want to start it I turn the key one notch put the truck in neutral and continue starting. At this point all works correct.
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My 2001 Chevy S10 Extended Cab Pickup 4 Cyl 102K miles went dead immediately after pulling out of my parking space. Went about 10 yards and all of the sudden the engine, power, dash lights, everything shut down, requiring me put into Neutral and push to side of the road. One minute later, it started up just fine and got me through the day with no further problems. The NEXT day, on first attempt, I turn the key half way and all power and dash lights come on, but as soon as I try to turn the engine over, everything went dead and remains that way. It is currently in this state. I replaced the battery 4 months ago.
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My father passed down his 1973 Chevy C-10 pickup truck to me and my family. It's been our 'runner' truck for many years going to the mountains for wood, lumber from the store, garbage and yard debris...etc. Unfortunately, it recently has been starting and warming up just fine, but once it's running as I'm driving away from stops or even holding speed on the highway the power 'fades' from the engine and it lugs like it is in gear, but flooded and lurches as the engine seems to 'catch up'. I have replaced the carb(holly quadrajet), fuel pump, fuel filters, battery, fuel lines, throttle cable, distributor cap (ceramic piece too), alternator and more...we still can't get it figured out. NOW the truck won't start or turn over - have we reached the end of it's life no matter what we do? What is left to replace? I don't think we can afford much more $ to fix it. We also found that somehow water was in the gas tank, which we think was from a kid in the neighborhood messing around. Could that have made a permanent issue?
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My truck is having a problem lately where it will suddenly die while driving. It feels like it loses either spark or fuel and happens about 20-30 minutes after I drive it. Once it dies you can turn the key off and restart it and it will fire up and run again, for how long I'm not sure because I'm almost home about that time. It has a fairly new fuel pump, 2 years old, a fuel filter the same age, new cap and rotor, new air filter, probably could use some new plugs. I replaced the TPS with an older one that I had laying around and had no change in performance. I get a 34 and 43 code (MAP and knock sensor) when I do a diagnostic on it.My question is do you think a MAP sensor or knock sensor would cause this kind of failure before I go out and buy them? I'm leaning towards the MAP sensor but not sure that it would have this kind of an effect on the engine.
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Mt truck will suddenly die while going down the road. I know it has a oil sensor and wont start or run with oil is low,but recently it just dies in the middle of the road or won't start after a drive of a few miles. After sitting for a few minutes it will usually start. This was happening a couple of times a day until this week when we have had ice and snow, we have been in four wheel drive for four days and it hasn't died or failed to start even once. Whats up with that ?
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When I start my truck, the headlights come on automatically. Because of this, they get alot of wear. Are they getting dimmer with wear or not? How often should I change the headlights .
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I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
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So my dads truck is a 87 2.2 throttle body 4cyl and it cuts out and dies while accelerating and I have no clue what is going on we are thinking bad fuel filter or starving for air....
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I am trying to understand why my truck will not accelerate until it has warmed up some...
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1995 pickup truck 2.4 liter 4 cal 4WD. I have a new problem- I drove out to a favorite spot in the mountains (up a dusty road) and when I got to the end of the road my truck was suddenly idling REALLY rough. I was able to drive it home and it runs "OK" as long as you stay on the gas (I say OK but it does want to die and especially wants to die after it warms up and then harder to restart until it cools)- as soon as you let off the gas the idle is on the extreme side of rough. It did not act like a fuel filter has historically (hesitate when giving gas), but I had a filter so I replaced the fuel filter anyway.
I also pulled the air duct work and cleaned it all out, put a new air filter in and used CRC MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF sensor. I did pour in a Chevron fuel system cleaner but it would likely take a tank full at least to work and it does not run good enough to run a tank full through. I put in all new plugs (gapped) and checked resistance on the plug wires and cap- all seems to be acceptable. I checked all the vacuum lines and did replace a couple that were dry and crumbly. I am now at a loss,
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My 1970 chevy c10 pickup is a 350 with automatic transmission 2wd. It doesn't get driven frequently and when I do the first time I put it into gear, fwd or reverse, it is slow to engage. Shortly after it has warmed up however, this problem goes away. What this sounds like?
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A friend is stumped by a problem with his truck, so I thought I might get some insight here. I haven't actually seen the truck, all that follows is from what he described, I'm just the messenger here.
The truck had been running fine on a used engine installed about six months ago. Then he ran it out of gas, it hasn't run properly since. It cranks fine, but won't start. He says it WILL start when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but only while the starting fluid is supplied. He also says he disconnected the fuel line somewhere near the engine, cranked the engine, and got good fuel supply (but no fuel pressure gauge reading). He's done some logical things: new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. No luck. Figuring that he'd sucked something ugly into the injectors, he decided to replace those with no change (yes, I cautioned him about throwing expensive parts at it with no clear reason).
He reasons that he must be getting spark based on the engine running with starter fluid, and there must be fuel based on his test with the open fuel line, so he thinks it's an electronic problem, presumably the signal to the injectors. This is out of my league...and my friend is a carpenter, not a mechanic. If he could get a scanner would this kind of problem register a code?
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My husbands GMC truck has an occasional ticking noise coming from the engine area. The noise happens when you crank up although it doesn't always happen. It will sometimes go several weeks without ticking/clicking. When it does start, the sound usually goes away after the truck "warms up" for a minute. The ticking/clicking does not change pattern when you accelerate. The mechanic said it just needed an oil change, but my husband has made sure to check the oil.
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My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
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My 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe with only 8k on it and the suspension sounds like a 10 year old pickup truck when I drive on any uneven surface under 30mph. I took it to the dealer who said that sounded normal. After going on a test drive with me he said that he did hear something on the passenger front clunking. He replaced the end link on that side and said that they normally wear out at around 15k. He checked the torque on all the other suspension bolts and said that was all he could do. It seems a little bit better, but it still sounds horrible at low speeds. I don't hear the knocking at highway speeds when I hit any bumps. What it can be? It feels like the struts are hoping or crashing over the bumps instead of absorbing them. My 10 year old Ford Explorer drove nicer than this. When I told the tech that my cheapo 2010 Nissan Versa doesn't make this noise when driven on the same roads he said that the Nissan was a much better car than the Hyundai. Did we make a horrible choice buying this thing?
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I have a 1991 V6 automatic Toyota pickup. The transmission has ~230,000 miles, but the engine has been rebuilt and probably has less than 5,000 miles on it. I am having overheating issues in both departments.
Engine overheating: This has started fairly recently. My truck began overheating at idle (usually at longer traffic lights) and would cool down again once I began driving. My coolant was low, I took it to a shop, and they fixed a small leak. Fast forward a few weeks and it happened again, and this time when I turned on my heat full blast to take heat off the engine it blew cool air until I started driving. Took it back, they found no more leaks, and couldn't duplicate the overheating symptoms. They also said the fan and thermostat seemed to be working fine. It seems to happen sporadically, regardless of coolant levels.
Transmission overheating: Firstly, my truck tends to delay/hard shift when I first start it in the morning. Once the engine warms up it goes away for the most part. I took it on a 100 mile trip camping on a fairly curvy/hilly forest highway and the A/T Oil Temp light came on. This has happened before when I took it on forest roads, even after a recent ATF flush. Needless to say I had to stop a few times to cool it off. It felt like the transmission was working too hard at a flat 60MPH (2,500-2,800RPMs). A couple times the RPMs were pulsing like it was switching gears back and forth. The next day driving in town everything was back to working order.
I'm not sure if these two things are connected... but they never happen at the same time. I'm taking it to a transmission shop but I want to make sure they don't try to rip me off unless absolutely necessary.
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I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
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I purchased a 1996 Chevy S10(beautiful teal color) as a second vehicle about 6 years ago. at the time of purchase we had to have the truck tuned up and then it was good to go. Now years later having much difficulty with the vehicle. There is a picture of an alligator in the door where vehicle id is kept. do you think that this truck may have been in the Hurricane Katrina of Louisiana and destroyed the electrical system. Just recently I had the distributor/tuneup all done. If I don't crank everyday, it maybe a possibility that my vehicle wont crank. the charges are all there, but still not running smoothly. sometimes it will act as if it is cutting out, the brake light comes on but if gas is applied just right the truck remains operable. FYI had the fuel pump replaced earlier too.
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It appears when i put the truck in 4 wheel drive it does not actually go into 4 wheel. It has lock outs and have made sure I put them in 4x4... why would it not go into 4 wheel, as there are no vacuum lines or solenoids (electric).
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