Plymouth - Acclaim :: Clunk / Rattle Noise Coming From One Wheel - Catastrophic Bearing Failure
Nov 29, 2011
My girlfriend owns a '92 Plymouth Acclaim. We noticed a few weeks ago that there was a clunk/rattle noise coming from one wheel, and since it mostly happened while cornering, thought it might be CV joints or maybe suspension. She brought it to her mechanic who inspected the brakes and found that the rear shocks were bad, but sent her away without fixing anything. The other day, on a long drive, the rattle suddenly intensified, morphed into a loud grinding noise, and then the wheel fell off.
I think I'm going to have to confront the mechanic. The bearings apparently hadn't been repacked in some time, and were surely the cause of the rattle noise. I'm less concerned with the fact that he might have overlooked an obvious problem as much as neglected to properly service the vehicle.
Are brake techs supposed to check, then tighten wheel bearings or repack them if needed?
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Since the Prius is my wife's primary car, I can go a long time without driving. I recently have been driving it more, and it seems to me that it has the sounds of a failing wheel bearing. Between about 30-40 MPH there seems to be a distinct rotational noise that sounds to me like a loud wheel bearing from the front end. The sound seems to get quieter as I go faster, and at 60 mph + it seems normal.
My wife didn't notice any difference, but she drives the car everyday so maybe she didn't notice the gradual increase in noise. I know it's not tire related, because I just swapped tires. When I did, I didn't feel any play in the front bearings or feel any roughness when the wheels were rotated.
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So after doing wheel bearings in the car. both front and back. I'm still getting the "wheel-bearing hum" sound if you will. Don't know how this can be possible with all brand new wheel bearings and hub in the front passenger side. other hubs were fine. I do need tires which will be ordered soon/ alignment im sure.
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Last week i took my '04 V10 in for tires/brakes/rotors with a local service shop. The next day they called saying one of the service attendants must have left the keys in the car overnight, because the battery isn't working right.Here is what happens (all within about 15 seconds)
1. Put key in ignition, engine starts normally
2. Multiple error lights immediately start flashing (engine, glow plug,tire pressure, etc, etc...
3. The MFI screen goes black (like the Tony Soprano finale)
4. the center console flashes "safe ..........." for a split second then goes blank as well.
5. the a/c does not run at all during this
6. the engine RPMs will not increase despite pressing on the accelerator.
7. the engine suddenly stops.
8. everything is then dead on the car.
This all takes place over about 10-15 seconds. This entire process can be reproduced by taking the key out and starting over. They are shipping the car out to a dealer for further evaluation, their computer gave them some sort of "battery learning error", but they were unable to reset it. I haven't heard of a dead battery behaving like this. The Touareg never ceases to amaze
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I have been reading about all these horrific cases about the tensioner just giving and causing catastrophic failure. Without all the maintenance records VWoA is reluctant to support 100% even if you're still within the powertrain warranty. I understand these 20+ cases are a small population out of the entire group, but I don't want to risk being another statistical point for this topic. Just ordered the HS Tuning kit and the two snap on tools.
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Ok so I've had this problem since I bought the truck and has never really caused any damage anywhere except in the rain and snow it makes it brake loose much easier. i bought the truck at 90,000 and im at 217000 now. I just recently added a programmer and bored it out and now I am concerned the extra power will cause catastrophic failure, i found this which accurately describes it as to what the problem is? my 92 f-250 felt this way when the driveshaft was getting loose but no such problem on this one.
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I just had front and back brakes replaced and there is noise coming from front (I think it's the front)? Any way my brother says its the wheel bearings and that my mechanic should have "caught" that they were bad. I've gone to mechanic for almost 10 years and trust him. Never had wheel bearing problems before so not sure what to think. And if it is wheel bearing can u ballpark cost to fix in Illinois ?
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I have a 2013 Elantra, new in January, 6600 miles on it, and I took it in to the dealership today because it was making funny noises this week from the left front wheel; the noise gets faster as I drive faster. The left front tire has a bubble in it, and they're telling me the wheel is bent and the bearing is cracked, so they'll need to replace the tire, wheel, hub, bearing and do something with the alignment AND it's not covered under warranty because it is "impact damage." Is this even possible on a new car like this? For the bearing to be cracked without a big accident? I don't remember hitting a pot hole or running over a curb. Shouldn't this be covered under normal use? I'm concerned that I'm being ripped off
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At 37000km we put new tires on and after about 1000km started to hear a high 'woo-woo-woo', from the rear, not really loud but a new noise. Guessing it might be tire noise I checked them for wear and thought the left rear was a bit sharp sliding your hand one direction but smooth sliding across the other way. Went for an alignment....it was only slightly off and the mechanic found the right rear wheel bearing was kaput.
It was done under warranty......but, do these vehicles are subject to premature bearing failure or was this a fluke? I did not see the bearing so I don't know if it was one of two or a pressed-on type or whatever. It would be nice to know that a wheel won't come flying off or seize up when we're halfway to nowhere if a bearing goes bad again.
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At 46,400 miles of gentle driving, my left wheel bearing failed on my 2010 Prius, which was not covered by warranty because it is not 'drive train'. I was told there was nothing I did or could have done to cause this. I have had 4 Toyotas, two with over 200,000 miles, and never had this serious a repair (that wasn't my fault!). Am I being unreasonable to think this is unusual? I'm wondering if this car is going to continue to be a problem.
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I had a ripped drivers side CV boot and had my indy replace the axle with a new Raxle. ~200 miles after the replacement the wheel bearing on that side went south. I shugged it off and had it replaced. Well, after 200 miles on the new bearing, it has also failed (100 miles from home). I gotta believe the 2 bearing fails are related to the new axle, but I don't understand how!
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I have 2012 Impala and hit a pot hole blowing out the left front tire but rim was not damaged, replaced the tire. Now the shop tells me that the wheel bearing has been damaged and the hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced. I've never seen this happen. Is it possible that the bearing got damaged?
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I just bought a used hyundai santa fe sport 2.0t. i noticed it is fairly loud inside compared to my 2011 sonata. I don't know if im hearing tire noise or maybe a wheel bearing type noise. It's coming from the rear and gets louder as I go faster. I'll admit O am paranoid and probably making this sound worse than it is.
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So I was searching around online and it seems this thing happens to some ppl after lowering their cars. I'm getting a loud pop/clunk noise from the front left side only. Seems that's the most common place ppl are having this type of issue with. What it could be? My mechanic wont be able to look at it till Friday. So not sure on what to do. The sound only happens when I'm hitting bumps on the road.
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I have been getting increased noise coming from the back of my car for the past month. So I jacked up the car and spun the tires and heard grinding noises in the rear right. I have a 2012 ToyotaPrius plug-in with 33,000 miles. When driving the car around 40 miles an hour there would be a howling sound coming from the back of the car regardless of the type of pavement I was driving on.
So I took it to the dealer today and they had it up on the rack in about an hour later they came to me and said it needed new tires and it would be about $700 and that this was likely causing the noise. I said that there was no way that it was the tires so I went and showed the mechanic how old the sound was coming out of the back right wheel. He listened with his stethoscope on the wheel bearings and said that he did hear some noise in there but still thought it was the tires.
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2000 Passat Wagon, 4-motion, 116,000 miles. I have a clunk/rattle in the front right wheel, and the clunk manifests itself when I roll over a bump. I don't get the same noise from the left side.
For example, turning right into a parking lot and rolling over the curb creates a clunk that I do not hear from the left side. Rolling over a manhole cover - clunk.
I've had it in for several other non-related service visits, and have asked the tech's to diagnose. Most recently, I got sold a new steering rack to resolve the issue, but it did not.
Again - I just replaced the steering rack. The techs have eliminated ball-joints and control arms as the source.
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My truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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My girlfriend and I just bought a 2011 a few weeks ago. We test drove it a couple times ourselves, and had our mechanic take a look at it and drive it also. Everything looked and sounded good. Not sure how much it matters, but it's a Certified Used as well.
A couple days ago, returning from a 45-minute drive which included some short stretches of gravel road, I noticed an oscillating sound. It's definitely not a noise that was there when we bought the car. Unfortunately, my cell is apparently bad at capturing audio, so hopefully my description will be enough.
The noise is very faint, almost inaudible, at low speeds. Between 30 and 35 mph it gets much louder, peaking at about 33. There's some vibration through the accelerator pedal also. Above 35, it fades pretty quickly and I can't really hear it at 50. The sound itself is 3 beats on, 1 beat off, about every second. There's a slight difference in pitch between each beat.
If that isn't enough to go on, let me know and I'll give the recording another shot and upload it if the noise is audible.
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I took my car in for what to me sounded like a wheel bearing noise. Dealer thinks the culprit is brakes need to be replaced. In addition to needing brakes I was told i need a throttle body service (service agent says it's needed every 15k for carbon buildup) and also a fuel tank vent filter ("needed every 2 yrs") are these legit repairs I should perform or is this a dealer shake down?
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I think it is cv joint not sure. [URL] .....
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