Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 3.3l AWD - Wheel Bearing Failure
Jul 9, 2010
At 37000km we put new tires on and after about 1000km started to hear a high 'woo-woo-woo', from the rear, not really loud but a new noise. Guessing it might be tire noise I checked them for wear and thought the left rear was a bit sharp sliding your hand one direction but smooth sliding across the other way. Went for an alignment....it was only slightly off and the mechanic found the right rear wheel bearing was kaput.
It was done under warranty......but, do these vehicles are subject to premature bearing failure or was this a fluke? I did not see the bearing so I don't know if it was one of two or a pressed-on type or whatever. It would be nice to know that a wheel won't come flying off or seize up when we're halfway to nowhere if a bearing goes bad again.
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Since the Prius is my wife's primary car, I can go a long time without driving. I recently have been driving it more, and it seems to me that it has the sounds of a failing wheel bearing. Between about 30-40 MPH there seems to be a distinct rotational noise that sounds to me like a loud wheel bearing from the front end. The sound seems to get quieter as I go faster, and at 60 mph + it seems normal.
My wife didn't notice any difference, but she drives the car everyday so maybe she didn't notice the gradual increase in noise. I know it's not tire related, because I just swapped tires. When I did, I didn't feel any play in the front bearings or feel any roughness when the wheels were rotated.
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At 46,400 miles of gentle driving, my left wheel bearing failed on my 2010 Prius, which was not covered by warranty because it is not 'drive train'. I was told there was nothing I did or could have done to cause this. I have had 4 Toyotas, two with over 200,000 miles, and never had this serious a repair (that wasn't my fault!). Am I being unreasonable to think this is unusual? I'm wondering if this car is going to continue to be a problem.
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I had a ripped drivers side CV boot and had my indy replace the axle with a new Raxle. ~200 miles after the replacement the wheel bearing on that side went south. I shugged it off and had it replaced. Well, after 200 miles on the new bearing, it has also failed (100 miles from home). I gotta believe the 2 bearing fails are related to the new axle, but I don't understand how!
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I have 2012 Impala and hit a pot hole blowing out the left front tire but rim was not damaged, replaced the tire. Now the shop tells me that the wheel bearing has been damaged and the hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced. I've never seen this happen. Is it possible that the bearing got damaged?
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My girlfriend owns a '92 Plymouth Acclaim. We noticed a few weeks ago that there was a clunk/rattle noise coming from one wheel, and since it mostly happened while cornering, thought it might be CV joints or maybe suspension. She brought it to her mechanic who inspected the brakes and found that the rear shocks were bad, but sent her away without fixing anything. The other day, on a long drive, the rattle suddenly intensified, morphed into a loud grinding noise, and then the wheel fell off.
I think I'm going to have to confront the mechanic. The bearings apparently hadn't been repacked in some time, and were surely the cause of the rattle noise. I'm less concerned with the fact that he might have overlooked an obvious problem as much as neglected to properly service the vehicle.
Are brake techs supposed to check, then tighten wheel bearings or repack them if needed?
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My 2009 santa fe (about 30k miles on it). I am hearing an intermittent screeching noise from the front right wheel area when driving at normal speeds. It seems like it might be brake-related because the screech stops when I apply the brakes.
I think worn pads should squeal when braking not driving. What causes a metallic screeching when the brake is not applied?
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I just bought a used hyundai santa fe sport 2.0t. i noticed it is fairly loud inside compared to my 2011 sonata. I don't know if im hearing tire noise or maybe a wheel bearing type noise. It's coming from the rear and gets louder as I go faster. I'll admit O am paranoid and probably making this sound worse than it is.
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Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.
How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing
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Got a "wheel bearing noise" emitting from my 2007 Sonata with a 5spd manual. I've replaced front and back wheel bearings with no noticeable change in the noise. I then rotated the tires with same result ...no noise difference. Lastly after much reading I was convinced one or both of my cv axles were at fault so I replaced both of them and unfortunately the moaning roaring noise is still very much there. The only thing I can think of at this point is that one or both of the transmission's CV support bearing is bad. I've depended on this car for a long time and it has given me great service but with 170K miles on the clock I'm afraid the tranny is going to give out and strand me in possibly a unsavory part of town..
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I have a 2007 the front wheel bearing started humming real bad, changed it out. Can't seem to get the right front brake bled good. Did it three times. No air. Today locked up the left wheel upon putting on the brake, the right one ain't working. Is there any thing I can do other than bleed the left front again, check fluid?
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The past two days my 2008 Santa Fe has been exhibiting power failure upon starting. When the ignition is switched on then to start all power is lost immediately with no start nor crank. I hear a metallic click seemingly too light a sound for a starter solenoid but since this has not happened before it could be a solenoid sound. All power is lost including dash and marker lights. After about 5 seconds or so the marker lights and dash will return and the car will start normally. I expect a circuit breaker is resetting. This has happened three starts in a row at least eight hours apart. This morning the dash clock was 8 or so hours behind but the car started normally. 62k on the car.
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This car is turning out to be a huge disappointment. Bad battery right away, oil pressure switch, brake lamp switch, front driver seat guide rails broken and now premature shock failure.
I had taken the SF to get a tire plugged after vacation as I had picked up a nail. The car was a bit noise riding along the way home, but I just chalked it up to crap Manitoba roads. The tech who fixed my tire showed me the oil leaking from both front shocks.
Told me that the driver side was pretty much 100% pooched. 2011 with only 42,000 KMs. On top of the other things this car has needed, I am ready to trade it in for a truck. A truck will meet our needs much better.
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The front driver's side wheel of my 2007 Ext. Cab makes a speed-related "ticking" sound. It's usually audible but not always there. I look for rocks in the tread of my BFG All-Terrains and sometimes I find some, sometimes not. The noise seems to be independent although some of the rocks really get up in there. Sometimes its really loud and it sounds like a rock. Bearing? 4WD CV or U-Joints or whatever?
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My 2008 Santa Fe (3.3 2WD) produces a knocking sound from the front every time I go on a bump while the wheel is turned. I can pretty much reproduce it at will. Occasionally, I hear the same sort knock from the rear as well, but I cannot confirm that it is consistent.
I do suspect that something is wrong with the struts. The only issue is that the car has 67k KM (41k miles), and to me, that seems a little early for that sort of thing to happen. My driving is pretty standard on standard roads, although winters up here tend to produce potholes that I sometimes cannot avoid.
I've had my struts fail on my last car (2000 Mazda Protege), but that was 9+ years old and with almost 3 times as much mileage on it.
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
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I have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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My truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
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2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
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I recently bought a 08 question Sante fe we just drove it. When it got to 70 to 80 mph i could feel a vibration in the steering wheel. What it could be. I bought it with 56k on it. Put new tires on it cuz the original tires were worn on the inside on the rears.
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