My car will start up but wont idle when it idle it starts to die and gas just overflows thee carb and the motor slowly dies. Its a 1966 pontiac starchief with a rochester carb and 421....
View 12 Repliesthe blinkers keep working and not working now they aren't of course.. but the left one only worked then something happened and the left only stayed on (not blinking) when the head lights were on. then it switched now they don't turn on at all. the fuses are good the relay is good all the wires are good I got new bulbs in as well and pointers. it's a Pontiac starchief 1966 and the flasher is good
View 1 RepliesI've noticed something new on my R32 recently. If I let the car sit in neutral with the motor on it's rpms will start to climb slowly. Normally it idles at around 800 rpm but when this happens it will climb to around 1200 rpm and stay there. Usually it takes a couple of minutes but you can slowly see the tach climbing. Also, you can feel the engine slowly revving as well (can hear it).
Now this doesn't happen all the time. I've only experienced it a few times in the past couple of weeks and only seems to happen if the car has been sitting idle with the motor on for at least 10 minutes (it happens when I've been at sonic waiting for an order). I can bring the rpms back to normal if I rev the car up to around 3.5k and let the motor settle back down to idle. What is causing this?
I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
We have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
I can cold start my 98 f150 with the 4.2 and it runs fine. After you drive it for a while and turn it off and try to restart it, it starts then dies, it will do this until you rev up the motor to keep it running. I have to drop in gear and get going down the road and then it smooths out and runs fine. I had a mech check the fuel pressure at the rail and it was 19 psi. The book says it is suppose to be 35psi. He said my fuel pump was bad. I installed a fuel pump and it is still doing the same thing yet. What to check now?
View 14 RepliesI recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
Drove 28mi out to dinner and when leaving after, she wouldn't start. Took it to work in the morning, and it ran fine prior to that. It was 15degrees outside, added heat to the gastank thinking the fuel line was frozen. Tryed to fire on, but it would only idle briefly surging while doing so and die, like not enough gas. It did start after I held the key down during this surging process grinding the starter also, should have driven home, but I shut it off like a idiot, as a result, had to tow home. Noticed TCS OFF light was lite up while it was running, then I shut it off, TCS OFF LIGHT went away when I turned key back on to attempt a 2nd restart. After i did that, it wouldn't fire on again. Towed to my house, I do not hear the fuel pump trying to kick on when i turn on the key. Fuel system is dry. Cranked over next day and definitely no gas in the lines. Bled the fuel system, no fuel shot out. Have checked the fuse box and the one under the hood too. Replaced the fuel pump relay but still no go just (this blows)...
View 7 RepliesI own a pontiac sunfire '00, and it makes a crackling noise in the rear end whenever I drive slowly, what could it be?
View 3 RepliesWhen car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 3 Replies94 Mazda B4000. V6 4x4 manual
After engine has ran about an hour, I make a stop at location, then on startup engine has a hard time staying idle after engine it's warm. Cold start idles fine, hot start it dies out. I must rev gas for truck to stay on. What could this be?
Noticed my beater Honda del Sol (177k miles) idling slowly the other day. Normal 45F day, light urban driving. Usually idle is ~800rpm (indicated), was dropping to 600rpm and even 500rpm. Holding her at 1000rpm then releasing the gas pedal yielded ~300rpm and it almost died, followed by ~500rpm. Ran fine at any other speed; it had no hesitation, no noises, and no warning lights.
So my GF said, "you're probably low on oil; my Cooper S did that once". Huh? Why would low oil, other than if it were so low that it starved the engine and caused friction, impact the idle? If anything, I'd think it would idle faster with less fluid to pump, and/or with hotter and hence thinner oil (assuming it'll run hotter if it has less oil, which it didn't appear to be).
Sure enough, I checked and it was about a quart low. I've never had a car that uses oil, plus my cars usually have oil pressure & oil level indicators (i.e. Porsche 944S2). So I've never run those lower than near the bottom of the "normal" range.
Searching "The Google" only provided unsatisfactory answers about metal-to-metal grinding and galling slowing down the engine, which is not what is happening here. There is still oil pressure, the oil light does not come on, and the engine sounds "normal". And adding oil immediately cured the slow idle.
I have a 2006 Buick Lacrosse with the 3800 Series 3 V6. It has 140K miles. Lately on warmish starts (after shopping for example) the car will start then slowly die (not all the time but a good chunk of the time). It starts fine when truly warm, and usually when it's cold it's fine too. It runs great otherwise. It never stalls or dies otherwise.The car has new plugs and wires, a newish battery, a new air filter and I cleaned the MAF sensor. I've only had the car about 6 months, and noticed the problem in the last couple.I scanned for codes and there are none, also there is no check engine light. The car doesn't have an IAC valve or a fuel filter (I know those are common culprits)But it starts easier when cold (even -20) than when warmish. Here are two videos I took of me starting it. *note the coolant temperature gauge. It's partially warm.
[URL] ....
I had my minivan stop running while i was on the freeway. My electrical seemed a bit off, the speed decreased and it slowly died. I tested the battery and it was fine, tested the alternator and it failed. I changed the alternator and still wouldn't start. I changed the battery as well and it worked for about 2 days and then it did the same thing. Radio started to flicker, all the lights turned on and the car decreased until it didn't run anymore?What could this be? Bad gearing? A faulty brand new alternator?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
View 3 Repliesdiagnose a problem with their 1995 Ford Windstar. The van slowly dies when idling. It runs for a few seconds after being jumped and then the dash lights slowly dim after which the van stops running. We replaced the battery and the van ran for about a day or so without issue. However, the problem is back. I suspected the alternator was faulty, so we pulled it and took it to a parts store to be bench tested. It was tested twice and passed both times. Does this sound like an alternator problem? Could there be an issue with the battery cables? What else might be causing this?
View 10 Replies2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000. My motor mounts have been slowly going bad for a few months now and they are now to the point where when I am slowing down as it is shifting down into third, it feels like I am being rear ended. My question is, is this doing damage to my engine and tranny or is it more of an annoyance.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 LeSabre with 180000 miles. I can drive the car for 4-5 miles before it stalls and then dies. the car will start to idle fast, then bottom out a couple of times before it dies. It also makes a horrible noise under the hood and sounds like the rods are all clanging together. Once it dies, it will not restart until it has sat there for 30-40 minutes. After sitting for some time, it will crank right up and then repeat the process again. My oil pressure is off the chart high and it stays there all the time. Does this have something to do with the problem of is that another problem all together? What is causing my car to die like this and how do i fix it?
View 5 RepliesIv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
I own a 2009 Prius and have had occasional issues with the car not starting in cold weather and have had to jump start it a few times. Fortunately that was successful. Today I noticed a new problem. In the past we have had problems with the car making a beeping noise, and the car with key symbol would blink. I have ignored that issue as it only lasted a short time. Today the car was beeping and when pushing the start button the car turned on but the dash lit up with the red triangle and exclamation point. We have had this happen before and would press the parking brake, then release it, push power button and it would shut off and we would restart without problems. Today the right headlamp went out followed by the left one about 30 seconds later. The fuel indicator began blinking as well as the drive/park indicator on the far left of the dash. The car eventually went dead although had very little light for overhead and glove box lights. The brake lights also worked. We have 125,000 miles on it with the original battery. Does this mean the battery finally went. If so how will we be able get the car out of the garage?
View 6 Replies2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.