I've got a 2001 Chevy Prizm (160,000 miles) Starts right up-after I drive for awhile and turn the engine off. It won't restart at times - I have to wait anywhere between 5 and 20 minutes till the engine will start again. The engine cranks - so it's not the starter or the battery.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with check engine light showing PO420 and PO446 codes, what could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Chevy Impala is taking a long time to crank. Now after 10 minutes or so of either idiling or driving, the car stalls out. I am able to restart it. Replaced the battery and no change. Lights are not getting dim in any way so I figure it's not the alternator. Could it be a bad starter?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 Chevy Prizm that I'm trying to keep as long as possible since I'm now working very part-time hours. For the past week or two I put the ignition key in, and can't get it to immediately turn. I check to make sure the car's really in Park, push the key in further, pull it out just a hair...between each step I try to get the key to turn and start the car. After 4 or 5 tries it does turn and the car starts right up.
I've tried both my "regular" key and my spare, thinking maybe one was a little worn and not fitting quite right. I'm getting worried that the time will come when I won't be able to get the key to turn. Is this a problem with the lock part of my ignition, or is there some glitch that's telling the car it's not in Park even though it is?
I just had to spend a good chunk of my emergency money to get tires and brake work on this car so it could pass inspection, and when I told the man at the garage about the key problem he shrugged and made some vague comment about old cars having problems.
I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2001 Chevy Prizm with 90,000 miles on it. Lately, when I'm accelerating over about 30 to 40 mph, my engine starts to make a grinding noise, that gets worse the faster I go, or the more pressure I apply. The noise also happens when I'm going up hill. What's causing this noise, so I don't look like an idiot when I take it in to my mechanic?
View 1 RepliesFuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
View 4 RepliesHave a 2001 Prizm with 120k miles on it. Just had the recommended 120k service done a month or two ago (local shop that has been reliable to me) and they commented on how mechanically solid my car was.
Thursday drove to work like normal. When it was time to leave, car wouldn't start. No dash lights, nothing at all when I turned the key. Got a ride, came back later that night and jumped it and it started right up (didn't wait at all, but I also didn't check it before hooking up the cables - it might have started without a jump). Radio had reset and so forth, but it was running.
Drove Friday, it was fine. Car sat all weekend. Monday morning, dead as could be again. No dash lights when I put the key in, nothing when I turned it. Maybe a single click, but nothing more (can't remember for sure).
Drove wife's car to work. Came home Monday afternoon and the car started right up with no problem. Was curious if the battery voltage was low or anything, so I turned the car off, hooked up my bluetooth OBD reader (generic ELM 327 off ebay), and tried to start. Car was dead. Unplugged the reader, still nothing.
Took the battery out and ran to the store, assuming a bad or weak battery. They tested and said it's completely fine. Went back home, hooked it back up, car started right up. So now I'm suspecting something's up with the ELM327... I just got it last week, a few days before this all started. Had it hooked up all week long and didn't unplug it till the first time the car wouldn't start. Didn't plug it back in till Monday afternoon's issues.
Could a flaky OBD reader cause these kinds of issues? Anything else I should be checking, or do you think I'm ok as long as I toss out that reader? When I was using the reader last week, it seemed to be reading everything fine and sending the data over to my phone. When the car was dead each time, it acted like the battery was completely disconnected - radio reset, NO lights, etc. Could something with the OBD reader mess up the computer and make it act like that, and then a little time lets the computer reset or something?
I've owned a 2001 Chevy Prizm LSi for about 12 years and it's been burning oil at a rate of about 1 quart every 200 miles or so. No tail pipe emissions or noticeable smoke and no OBDC codes.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2010 F-150 which has a problem that the dealer cannot figure out. When I leave the heater/air on when I shut the truck off upon restart the heater/air is off. The heater/air will turn on if I restart the truck within a few minutes but if it is left for say 15mins it seems the truck forgets where the heater switch was upon shut down. This causes a huge problem for my remote starter as the selection I need does not come on after leaving the vehicle for a time.
The codes for the truck are OK according to the dealer.
I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
View 12 RepliesMy 1986 B2000 problems started when the engine would run for a few minutes and not restart. After it sat a while, it would restart.
Through out the process of seeking a fix, I have replaced the fuel pump, coil, distributor cap, rotor, pick-up coil in the distributor, condenser, and spark plug wires and coli wire.
Currently, there is no spark out of the coil wire feeding the distribute.There are 12 volts at the positive and negative side of the coil terminals when the key is in the “run” position.There is about 10 volts to each coil terminal when the engine is cranking over.
I have tried using the old coil and the old pick-up coil in the distributor, but with no luck.
I own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2001 Chevy s10 4.3 litter engine 2 wheel drive truck. Every time I accelerate I hear a hissing air sound like a vacuum cleaner from the belt/pulley areas. I've changed the alternator, a pulley, the tensioner, the air compressor, and the power steering pump is only 5,000 miles old. The sound has not gone away. I have no engine overheating or anti freeze leaks and the power steering works fine. When I first changed the power steering, the wheel was super hard to turn and it would sporadically get easier; now it us easy to turn. What could be causing this sound? I rather not change the water pump now.
View 2 Replies93" chevy, k 1500 305 engine, stalled, then hard to restart lots of black smoke, fuel, no air? Bad mixture? When it starts it backfires, runs rough black smoke, and stalls again. dist. module ck. o.k. cap and rotor good.
View 3 RepliesCold start ok . Problem arises after engine is at operating temp. After stopping for whatever and attempting to restart, dash no longer lights up with key in on position but starter cranks and engine won't start. Leave key in on position for about a min.dash lights back up and engine starts.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 2 Replies02 Chevy Impala with 177,000 miles has re-starting problems for last 20,000 miles. New Battery, cleaned throttle plate, new fuel pump, check engine light on (emission problem was told to me by mechanic). Whats going on?
When the car runs it runs very well...to get the car started, just wait, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes longer than an hour. All the time periodically cranking the engine...just does not start. But when it does start, it runs very well.
This problems occurs only after the car has started and is warm. Let it sit for a while then restarting the problem occurs.
My 2001 Chevy Venture stalls after driving it approximately 15 minutes and won't start for about 20-30 minutes, then same problem occurs. I've had the following parts replaced to date, with no success.
AIR FILTER
ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM
IGNITION MODULE
FUEL PUMP AND WIRING
I have a very weird thing going on with my car. It all started about 3 month ago. The car will not accelerate and it left me broke down on the side of the road. It will start but it will not move fwd. So i took it to a mechanic, he told me it was the ignition coils, so he replaced them with some used ones that he got from the car junk yard. It worked for a like 2 months. About a month ago its stared doing it again! So i thought that since the mechanic replaced the ignition coils last time with some used one, i out to try some new ones. so i went ahead and bought some new one and the spark plugs and replaced them, $100 later it still doing it.
Mind you that this time around, the car will take a bit to accelerate once i get enough speed the car will only go 70mph, then the car starts to feel like its going shut off but it doesn't. Also it feels like the car is being held back, and every now n again will have a little burst of energy. I also see the gas consumption its a bit faster, i guess since I'm pressing the gas pedal all the in but can not go more than 70mph.