Saturn - L :: 2004 - Stalls While Stopping - Start Up After Many Tries
Feb 8, 2012
Recently my car has stalled on me when I've stopped at stop lights. The radio stays on, but I think it's just the engine that turns off. I have to turn the car compleltly off and then on again. It sometimes takes a few tries, but it does turn on again and I am able to drive it again. I have taken it to a repair shop twice now and both times they've said they cant replicate the problem and cant seem to figure out whats wrong. They have scanned my car and I was told they didnt get any codes telling them of the problem.
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07 saturn vue, 4cyl motor, auto trans. torque conv occasionally will not unlock so motor will stall at stop. a used trans is quite cheap for these rigs. and they come with the TC. would a new TC fix this issue? or is it more of an issue of worn seals inside trans? i would hate to spend 200 on new TC and not touch trans when i can get a lower mile used unit.
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My 2009 Mazda Cx-9 stalls intermittently after stopping, usually at red lights. It will start back up, and no problem. The steering wheel will lock when this happens. Also on the highway, it will buck/lurch but keeps going. The engine light never comes on so the repair shop cannot seem tell me the cause of the problem. It doesn't happen everyday, and has been happening since I bought the car 18 months ago. However, in the last two days, it has stalled six times. The repair shop today says that they need to do a throttle (?) clean and that "should" clean it up. But I don't know... what do you think?There isn't a noise I can tape, because alas, there is no noise !
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I've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
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I have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe with 108k miles on it that seems to have an attitude problem. I was driving home from a Christmas get together on the highway, when my engine stalled, hiccuped, stopped and the check engine light came on. When I tried restarting the car, the engine wouldn't fire. The battery was fine, and I had a half tank of gas. After about 15 minutes of sitting, I was able to get the car started and driving again. After about a day and a half and a refueling, the check engine light went out and the car behaved as normal until this evening.
I went to the gas station, put $15 in the tank (brought the tank up to about half), and as I was stopped waiting to pull onto the road, the engine died. No hiccuping, rough running or anything, it just plain stalled and shut off. Again, after ~15 min, it started. I turned back up the road to head home (Was going to head about 30 miles west to see a friend but decided against it), after I stopped at a stop light, it stalled out again same thing. Waited ~15 min, it started back up with the check engine light back on. (But wait there's more!) Another stoplight, another stall. This time however, it would not start at all after 30 plus minutes. By this point, my battery was pretty run down, so I managed to get a friend to give me a tow.
I have to bring it it for servicing tomorrow anyway for a completely unrelated issue, and just towed it over to the dealer.Any clue what gives or what I should make sure the dealer does?
The internet seems to want to point me towards a bad ignition coil or a bad crankshaft sensor, but my mechanically inclined friends are leaning towards an electrical issue or a problem with the fuel filter/pump/line.
The check engine code is P0335
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My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
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I have a 2003 Saturn Vue, 4 cylinder, manual transmission. For the last two years when ever I fill up with gasoline (doesn't matter if I get a gallon or 10 gallons), when I start the car after getting the gas it immediately stalls. When I attempt to restart it, it takes about 10 seconds before it will catch and start. It does not stall or not start at any other time. I have taken it in to be checked, the computer shows them a few code errors but they can not find the problem to match it.
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Ive had my saturn for over a year now. It just hit 100,000 miles. Seems to be the perfect car, except for one major flaw. Once a week to multiple times a day, my car fails to start. For twenty mins to an hour. Ive done some research, looked in my manual, and have been to multiple shops. From what I know the problem is the "passlock" I turn my key and it barely turns over. I wait and wait, keep turning my key every so often, for a long period of time.. until my car finally!!! starts. Im late to work some days even when leaving half an hour before I truely need to leave. The shops have done many things to my car, each time saying it is fixed. Im starting to think it can never be fixed and I need to give up on my car before i lose my two jobs.
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I have replaced the battery, the alternator is good. I turn the key ignition on and NOTHING. All lights turn on and go off after a few seconds. No clicking noise. It turns om quickly when it is jumped.
I can re enter car a few times, but after a day or so the same problem. What can I check to solve this problem.
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My daughter's 2004 Saturn Ion3 has had problems starting up for three weeks. Battery was replaced as was the crank shaft sensor. Mechanics cannot make it NOT start so they can't diagnose any more. My daughter goes out in the morning, the car won't start, it just makes a spinning noise, then waits 15 min and sometimes it will start. Sometimes turning the key again right away will cause it to make NO noise at all. What else could be wrong?
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I have a 02 Saturn sl2 and every time I pump gas, the nozzle will click every few dollars as if my tank is full even when its near empty or half full.
2 weeks ago: I started my engine up and went about a few feet then my engine went dead. My car would crank but not fire up and I wasn't getting a reading on the instrument panel so I figured it was a fuel pump related problem. I took a look at the fuse panel for any fuses that could be blown or in bad shape. The only fuse I pulled out was the PCM-b fuse but upon further inspection, it was good and after that, it started up fine.
Next day: I get gas after work, drive home, grab a few things, start the car up, get a few feet, dies, won't start, its instrument panel reading, pull the same fuse, put the same fuse back, go on my way.
Next week: So I haven't put any gas in my car for a week and it has been working perfectly. I start to get near 1/4 tank so I put another $25 of gas in, started my car up and only got far enough to get away from the pumps when I notice my gas gauge going down, low rpm, and lost power steering. My car then died as I was pulling into a parking space. I did the same little trick and it started up again.
Today: Make a list of reasons why my car is stalling and plan to fix them from cheapest to most expensive. Start with putting gas line antifreeze as I rule out if there is water in my tank or not. ( I meant to put in one with water absorber, but I put a normal bottle in) Start my car up, get to school which is about 6-10km and when I was pulling in I noticed that my gauge was almost empty. I stopped the car and went to start it up again to see if I would get a new reading but my car just cranked. Tried a few more times but it wouldn't start until I did my little pcm-b fuse trick.
Now I am just wondering what you people think could be the problem but this is my conclusions and debates.
Water/Air in the tank - Why would does my car stop giving me an reading on my instrument panel after it stalls.PCM fault -Why does it only happen shortly after I open my gas tank (or maybe coincidence)PCM fuse blew -It works after I put it back inFuel filter clogged or fuel pump blew -why does my car start after I do the fuse trick.
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We have a 2004 Jetta with about 92,000 miles on it. We bought it used in October 2012 after 3 months needed rebuilt transmission, and many other problems but the most recent has been costly with no mechanic being able to repair. These are some of the problems that we are faced with. While in drive the vehicle feels like its gonna stall but starts to beep the clock resets and car continues to drive with no problems or the car won't start at all.
You open the car door no keys are in the ignition but the car is clicking and clock and miles are fading in and out, light on door panel blinking, you push flashers and it makes a strange noise but flashers are not blinking. You put key in and try to start the car and nothing the blinking and clicking stop and it does nothing turn key back in off position clicking and blinking start again.
Car just stalls when approaching stop signs. No mechanic has been able to fix problem or duplicate issues. I do have video of the interior clicking and flashing and noises it makes.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4l v8...
Codes
P0012 int cam position timing over ret bank 1
P0022 int cam position timing over ret bank 2
P0300 random Missfire detected
P0316 engine misfire detected on start up
P0340 cam position sensor curcuit fault
P0345 cmp sensor a circuit problem bank 2
Starts rough, idles rough and stalls occur often when start, after it runs for 5 minutes and sometimes dint starts at all. I replaced spark plugs, coils, cam shaft sensors and had oil changes done and. No effect.
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So I've got a strange/scary thing going on, not sure if it's temperature related or not. Driving my wagon in automatic mode, the throttle will sometimes *just stop working*. 4 or 5 times this has happened right after taking off from a stop (turning left at a light, leaving a stop sign, etc.): my foot's on the gas, but the car will just slow down, tach dropping toward idle. Let me tell you, I have never slammed my foot down on the gas pedal so hard before in my life.. and nothing happens.
Then suddenly, WHAM, the tach runs up and away I go. I haven't scientifically figured the damn problem out, but it might (?) be only happening within 15 minutes of starting from cold (overnight). Haven't been able to determine if it happens after a couple hours of tooling around town (I haven't been driving much the last couple weeks).
Another quirk is that sometimes leaving a stop sign it will move, but slowly (when compared to my foot position on the pedal), with the revs high in 1st but almost like it's slipping. Feels like maybe not all four wheels are engaged. Then suddenly everything wakes up and I'm off like a bat outta hell. Sometimes runs all the way to redline in 1st before shifting, even when I don't have my foot through the firewall.
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I have a starting issue with our older Explorer.
Vehicle: 1998 4.0 SOHC
Owned for 6+ years, no major issues to date.
225K miles, well maintained.
Problem: Vehicle will start fine on first start of day, or any other time after being parked for enough time to cool off like it is in the AM. Example, drove for about an hour and stopped for a hamburger. In restaurant for about 15-20 minutes go outside to vehicle, no start. let sit for about another 20 or so minutes and starts fine. Runs good, NO code given, ever. Has happened multiple times. Fuel is present in fuel rail as I poked Schrader valve in fuel rail and gas is present and with very good pressure. My guess seeing NO check engine light ever is something ECM or ignition coil related?
Haven't tried to troubleshoot yet. Any initial common problem concerning no start with warm engine?
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I bought this Escape used in Dec '10 with 29,000 miles. It is now at 36,500 (Sept '11). I have had it in for service 3 times in 3 months.
The passenger airbag seems faulty- if the seat is empty, the light will flip off (meaning airbag is on). If I sit in it, the light will go on and off intermittently. I'm 135 lbs- and the serviceman saw it happen as we drove around- yet when the car was given back to me after a week and a half, they stated they could not duplicate the problem and that no issues were found.
Now, I'm having starting issues. Once over Labor day weekend- I had driven my car, parked it, and went to get in it 5 minutes later- no start. No cranking, no clicking. All lights/radion come on. After sitting for about 20 minutes and attempting to start every couple minutes, it roared to life and was fine. Took in for service, and again- no codes, could not duplicate, so they sent it home.
Car sat for a week (I'm a student- it doesn't get much action except on weekends). Then yesterday, I drove it about 15 minutes, parked, came back 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start again. Again, after about 20 minutes of sitting and attempting to start, it started.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Sedan. 119K miles. The transmission slips sometimes especially when I start after stopping at a red light. My mechanic recommended not to change the transmission fluid as the transmission can go down and might need a new transmission. He also told me that 2002 Honda Accords are known for this issue.
So my question: Is my mechanic right? Or should I go ahead and flush the transmission fluid and replace it?
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Hard to fix? Only happens when going under 5 mph either in slow traffic or slowing down to park in parking spot or just stopping the car. Doesn't happen at high speeds. It's like I'm driving on snow or ice or wet pavement but there is dry pavement. Brake pads and rotors were cleaned with no success. Guessing that a sensor is dirty or broken or such.
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While driving, hear a whirring sound, happens about every ten seconds, lasting for about two...after getting home, shut off engine and this sound continued. Turned on, turned off, still continued. When off, occurs about every 20 seconds.
Continued for the 10-15 minutes I was in the garage. Opened the engine and definitely coming from under the Synergy Hybrid box.
Went out four hours later, and quiet. When I opened the door, sound went on again, lasting for 20-25 seconds....It then stopped and started again, occurring every 15-20 seconds, lasting for about 3 seconds.
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When stopping my 2004 VW GTI 1.8T at a low speed the brakes (sounds like from the front) make a strange noise from the front. The best way to describe the noise would like when you would put cardboard or the like in your bicycle tires as a child and make that whirring noise. I have checked the brake pads, rotors and the like and cannot find any evidence of grinding or anything of the sort. It only happens at low stopping speeds and not at harsher stops. There seems to be no evidence of problems stopping or anything like that, just an aggravating noise that will not go away! What it could be because I am completely lost on this topic and have checked all the basics (pads, calipers and rotors) for wear/tear and just did my brakes about 5 months ago with no noted issues at that point with everything broken down.
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