Saturn - Sl :: 1995 - Won't Start Even After Electrical Check
Nov 17, 2011
I had a mechanic do a diagnostic on the battery, alternator, etc. on Monday and he couldn't find a thing wrong. I drove it home without a worry. Last nite, it wouldn't start. It reminded me of what used to be called (or still is called?) "flooded." My '95 Saturn SL2 cranked but never kicked in and/or turned over to start. This morning, however, it turned over right away, albeit very sluggishly. What's wrong? Bad gasoline?
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I have a 95 Saturn SL2 4 Cyl DOHC with 196k miles. This engine however has about 140k. Yesterday I was driving to work and it stalled and now will not start. It gives one attempt to crank, a single "err" sound about half a second long and then I get nothing. The radio still comes on and the dash lights work, though I don't believe all of them work to give the correct indications. The battery is not the problem. What may cause this?
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95 ford f250 with 5.8l. I have currently replaced the battery, alternator, distributor, cap, rotor, icm, coil, plugs, wires, act sensor, ect sensor, fuel pump, fuel press regulator. I got it to start today by messing with timing at distributor it ran to operating temp and died. Would crank but not start.. So I replaced the act tensor today.. Now it still won't start... koeo test gives code 327... I am stumped and about to tow it away...
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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My poor baby just developed a rod knock. The noise usually is faint and only when accelerating slightly. I had one bout of very loud vibrating "humming" and clanking. I need to drive to NH from WY (2500 miles). Is there a chance this noise could be something else? How can I prolong the life of the car to get home? I hear cars can last anywhere from 1 to 100,000 more miles with this issue. I am hoping for the latter. She's a 95 Saturn SL1 and I love her, but I understand her time has come.
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The gas pump keeps shutting off when I try to fill my '95 Saturn, like it would when the tank is full, even when the tank is empty. This is a recent phenomenon, and it does it at every gas pump. I have to keep pulling the handle to get gas in the tank. I took off the filler tube and checked both it and the vent line. Both are clear. What could be causing this?
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A few weeks ago my '99 Saturn SL (120k miles) started rarely losing electrical in little bursts. Gauges zero, car beeps, but everything is normal. This would happen maybe once every few days during my ~30 minute commute. Last night I was picking up dinner and when I returned to the car it had no juice and wouldn't start (not even the dome light would come on). So I found somebody to give me a jump and when I returned the car started up without jumping and without me having done anything in the interim. So today I check the battery (which is maybe ~3 years old) terminals and everything is tight and corrosive free. What can I do?
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I have a 1995 Saturn SL with 131,000 miles. It is a good car, and still pushes 40 mpg. The problem is that I have developed an antifreeze leak. I noticed it last weekend, and have had to add antifreeze twice. It appears to be leaking on the drivers side under the car, but the reservoir is on the passenger side. I have not been able to locate the exact leak.
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My '95 Saturn has a little bit of smoke coming out the sides of its hood. I've never cleaned the engine and was wondering if there were any good engine cleaners on the market? (I'm assuming it should clean hoses and whatever else - belts, I guess I'll leave them alone for now as I don't hear any noise indicating slippage.) The car is driveable but with summer coming up I don't want to be stranded with an engine on fire.
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When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
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I just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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I have a 95 Jeep Cherokee that has a strange electrical problem. When I first turn the car on after it has been sitting for several hours, the following accessories do not work:- Air conditioner/Ventilation- Wipers- Cigarette lighter
There are two really odd things going on here: The first is that the radio will not work if any of the above three things are turned on, but it WILL work if they are all turned off. For example, with the wipers and AC off, and cell charger unplugged from the lighter, the radio will turn on. As soon as I plug the charger in, or turn on the wipers or AC, the radio goes off. None of these accessories actually turn on, but simply being putting them in the "on" position kills the radio until they are switched off.
The second weird thing is that after a few minutes of driving, everything will return to working as normal - radio, AC, lighter, etc. They continue to work until the next time the car has been sitting for several hours, at which point the same problem repeats.
FYI, I recently replaced the alternator to address an unrelated issue, but it did not make a difference with this one.
I searched the car talk forums for similar issues, but did not have any luck - while it does look like there are some other Chrysler vehicles that have electrical problems, I couldn't find anything dealing with an intermittent problem.
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I have a 1995 ford mustang with a 3.8 v6, and have recently discovered an electrical problem. First I thought it was just the headlight switch. We replaced it, but looking at the old one, we found that it had gotten so hot, it melted all the plastic off the wires, and that this caused the switch to burn out. I replaced the old one with a new one but it still gets super hot. I'm afraid to drive my car at night for the reason that my lights might fail me in the dark.
Another problem, I'm unsure if they are associated, but it did appear around the same time I replaced the headlight switch. When my car is running, it is impossible to shift it from the park. The button on the shifter (its an automatic transmission) refuses to give, and the result is that my car can only be shifted into gear by turning the key to turn on the ignition position while pressing in the button on the shifter, and then starting my car and driving off. Another thing that i'm sure is associated with this problem is that the cruise control will not be turned off by the brake. It will disengage the cruise when braking but re-engages after my foot leaves the brake. These last two problems began at the same time.
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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I have a 95 powerstroke and every powerstroke I've seen stock on youtube has a bell instead of a buzzer when key is in ignition or lights are on. The buzz is VERY annoying but I'm bad for leaving lights on so I need something. any way to change buzz to a bell?
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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After changing my radiator support, my fuel and temperature gauges don't work. I looked to see if everything was plugged in and I don't see anything unplugged. I do know the older trucks used the V-R regulators, but I don't know about this model.
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The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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