Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1995 F250 Stalls And Won't Start At Operating Temp
Jan 6, 2015
95 ford f250 with 5.8l. I have currently replaced the battery, alternator, distributor, cap, rotor, icm, coil, plugs, wires, act sensor, ect sensor, fuel pump, fuel press regulator. I got it to start today by messing with timing at distributor it ran to operating temp and died. Would crank but not start.. So I replaced the act tensor today.. Now it still won't start... koeo test gives code 327... I am stumped and about to tow it away...
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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Well I've had her just 1 week, used, and today I turned it on and the power is out on the A/C n Heater /Fan Control ASSY. It worked the last 900 miles from FL to OH. And today worked this morning, but 2nd time I got in the truck today there was No Lights in the Air Control Assy. I didn't get an Owners Manual, so what fuse to check.
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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When I start my van first thing in the morning it starts fine when it reaches t2he normal operating temp on my gauges, it begins to stall and dies. Then after Restarting it once or twice it runs great the rest of the day.
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1999 - F250 7.3L Crew/Longbed manual locks/windows ...
2x New Batteries a few days ago, same symptoms as old batteries ...
Sitting overnight loses .1 volt due to cooler temps in am measurement:
9pm 12.92v
7am 12.83v
11am 12.93v*
*won't start
The amp draw measured at 9pm and 11am is essentially zero (reading .06 or less, usually 0.00) on both cables exiting the passenger side battery. This is sitting for an hour plus with the hood courtesy bulb removed. (although it drops to near zero within a few minutes of the domes going off). Using a clamp around ammeter.
The alternator is charging (14+v reading while driving). When trickle charged overnight the truck starts fine. Plugging in the block heater makes no difference in starting (or not). 45 F overnight. When it doesn't start:
-double keying the glow plug light comes on
-tach needle bounces on crank
-voltage of 12.8 drops to 11.2 on glow plugs, then 10, then 7 while cranking
-sounds like it's almost going to catch, then bogs hard and the voltage really drops
Again, it starts fine when charged and starts after short trips (by virtue of my wife having made it home). Haven't tried to jump start as I don't have anything handy that is boss enough to jump one of these. Typical use during failure:
Charging with charger
Start
30 min to store
3 stores, start 3 times
30 min to home
Sit overnight
Won't start
This morning I checked that the battery terminals and battery clamps all had the exact same voltage. There are occasionally amps between the batteries (.37 to .08) measured on each end of the cable going over the radiator.
So, if there is no drain and the block heater doesn't work, but it starts fine if it hasn't been driven/sitting, what is next to check?
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I have a Suzuki Esteem on which I have recently had following work done from a suzuki dealer on their recommendation.
1) Throttle body repair and Cleaning.
2) Idle air control valve cleaning.
3) New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs.
4) Engine tuning.
5) New battery.
6) New power steering belt.
PROBLEM: (Only when AC is OFF)
When my car reaches operating temperature the engine stalls out after three seconds at idle.
Suzuki dealer does not seem to know the reason behind this and they want to keep it for a few more days however i think they will just keep replacing parts one after another.
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My 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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I have a 95 powerstroke and every powerstroke I've seen stock on youtube has a bell instead of a buzzer when key is in ignition or lights are on. The buzz is VERY annoying but I'm bad for leaving lights on so I need something. any way to change buzz to a bell?
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After changing my radiator support, my fuel and temperature gauges don't work. I looked to see if everything was plugged in and I don't see anything unplugged. I do know the older trucks used the V-R regulators, but I don't know about this model.
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The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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I recently purchased a 1995 F150 4x4 with the 351 Windsor. Upon driving it I realized the speedo didn't work, transmission shifted hard,and OD light blinking. After googling my issue I found out it was the VSS. I climbed under the truck to find out the VSS isn't even plugged in. I searched for the wire but could not find it, only a spliced cable.....
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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I have a '95 dually and it has small yellow running lights on the rear fenders. The only time those lights will come on is when the headlights are on (or parking lights) and I put it in reverse. Not sure, but I would have guessed they are supposed to on when the lights are on and go out when the truck is put in reverse.
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'92 Camry 5S-FE 4cyl 2.2L A/T; This one has me puzzled. Runs well, newer ignition parts, but does not start when warmed up to OpTemp. Starts fine cold, restarts when warm after 5-10 minute cool down (is not overheating). Will start hot if starting fluid is injected into throttle body, so problem is unlikely spark, it has to be fuel, right? Just ran SeaFoam thru top end as I was advised it could have been carbon build up, but that did not fix. Got some carbon burn off, but hot start issue remained.
Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pump and filter both replaced less than a year ago. I have basic tools, but not much more than a Multimeter for test equipment.
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I have a 1994 Buick LeSabre Limited with a 3800 engine.When the engines cold,it starts fine and drives fine.When it reaches operating temp,if you shut it off. It will crank but not start back up until its cold again. I've replaced the crank and cam sensors but no change.
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