Sebring - Chrysler :: 2002 - Engine Shut Off While Driving / Apparent Grinding Noise
Mar 16, 2013
I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with 116,000 miles and over the past month the engine has shutoff as I am driving and once I park turn the key off and turn on it has started to run again. This has happened about four times and each time it has been difficult starting it after the car has stalled. The most recent time this happened when I went to restart the car, a grinding noise became apparent. The last few times that I have started the car the grinding noise would be heard only to ultimately fade away in about 15 seconds. The check engine light came on and went to get the code and it came back suggesting a problem with the camshaft position sensor, but I don't fee the noise is related to that.
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I drive a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with about 130,000 miles on it.
I was driving down the highway in early November when the check engine light came on my car. I took it to Aamco who did some diagnosis and replaced a solenoid assembly in the transmission. The light went off and I was on my way. I never got the exact code.
About a month after that, the light came on again. This time, I got a low end code reader and scanned it myself. I got a "P0700" code, which I've read is a generic code that the transmission system sends to the computer or something. So I used my reader to erase it. However, the light came on 2 days later while I was driving down the highway at about 70 MPH.
So I went to an auto parts store to get a more detailed scan with a better tool. This one came up "P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit".
This feels weird, because the solenoid assembly was just replaced a month ago (and is still under warranty).
The car seems to drive okay. I don't notice any actual problems in shifting. The tachometer seemed to get up to about 3000 RPM on the highway. But I've seen practically new cars do that. The last time I had serious transmission problem it would rev up to about 5000 or 6000 RPM on the highway and still only getting up to about 40 MPH. That was 3 years ago and at the time I had a fairly expensive transmission repair (which included a new torque converter).
But like I said, the car seems to be driving okay. I don't drive much. Maybe 100 miles a week? And even that is mostly optional in town driving. I'm not looking to keep this car for more than another 20,000 to 25,000 miles though for the time being I cannot afford a new one.
What are the possible causes here? What are the consequences of ignoring this? Like I said, it's still driving fine and as the old saying goes "if it's not broke, don't fix it".
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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I have a 2004 Sebring my check engine light is on and the RMP's are really high while Im driving. What could be going on?
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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I was driving down the road for about 20 minutes. When I saw steam coming out. I was a block away from home so I thought I'd make it before anything bad happened. The light turned green and I hit the gas and a few seconds after that something popped. I continued driving and the engine screeched and I pulled into my driveway. I jumped out and opened the hood and there was coolant everywhere. Like covering the engine and the underside of the hood.
2002 Chrysler sebring...
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Its a 1998 chrysler sebring jxi. 2.5 V6... It runs fine then randomly shuts off all electrical parts stay on i have to pull over or if it turns off at a red light let it sit for a while because i immediately get the "no bus" code. i have to let it sit with the car on but not trying to crank until the code goes away then it cranks again. sometimes i have to repeat that process a few times, sometimes just once. at times the code only last a couple minutes but sometimes over 10!
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Engine oil has been changed and spark plugs changed. The engine is still making rattling/clicking noise. I checked with a mechanic and he indicated that engine needs to be repaired. Didn't say exactly what needs to be done and stated it would cost about $2200 for parts and labor. Why the engine keeps rattling and making the noise? Oh, before plugs were changed, the engine was shutting off at times when in idle mode.
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My 2002 Sebring won't start. Here's what happens:
Turn the key in the ignition. Engine makes no noise at all. It's sorta like when the battery died 2 months ago, except this time the power windows and doors work, the headlights and interior lights work, though oddly, the radio doesn't. The radio, FYI, is not the one that came with the car. I bought it back in 2010 after the cassette deck on the original broke and I needed something with an Auxilary connector to connect my Ipod to. I had it professionally installed.
So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.
So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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My oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
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I have a 98 Sebring Convertible 2.5L V6 that stalls after 10 minutes of driving at 30mph or even at highway speeds (ouch), but it seems only if the car has been sitting parked for 5 days will the stall occur. If I drive it daily/every other day, she seems to run just fine. Somewhere in between 2 and 5 days, there is sometimes a surge at that distance, but not a complete stall. The stall has been a very specific distance that if I let the car sit for 5 days, I can essentially pull over in anticipation of the stall. When the car stalls, the dash gauges all go to 0 and lose all power steering, but headlights stay on. Otherwise, there's been no noticeable loss of power, rough idle or anything else to indicate a problem. There are no codes on the computer. The stall happens once. I can pull over and immediately restart my car and be on my way without experiencing another problem until I let the car sit for 5 days again.
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So. My car shakes badly when I get above 35 mph and up. It shakes under acceleration and braking above these speeds. Under these speeds its fine. When I am above 35 if I am just coasting its fine it doesn't shake. The shaking feels like I am off the side of the road and driving over rumble strips. What could be the cause of this?
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Check engine light came on and off for a couple of months. At first engine would lug at about 35 mph then light would come on, then off, usually by next start. Car stalled once when sitting at light, then light came on. Scanner said it was the Camshaft Position Sensor. Replaced it and now I need to give it gas first thing in the morning and in the evening after it's been sitting a work all day. Why it's doing this?
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Check engine light comes on, car starts "chugging", recovers, chugs, recovers. So we limp to our destination. Check engine light goes off after car stands overnight. Repeat after driving car again. Mechanic replaced a 4" square "switch" somewhere "hot" last time. Said heat makes it go bad. Can't find anything 4" square under the hood. Mechanic says this part goes out all the time on this model and year.
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I have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
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I have a 2005 PT Cruiser non-turbo. A short time back, the tensioner bolt broke on the alternator and after spending several months going back and forth with the dealer, I was finally able to find the correct size bolt to replace it. Shortly afterwards, I began to hear a scraping sound coming from the engine compartment. The sound is sporadic, and only lasts for a short time. The sound only appears to happen when the engine is idling down when coming to a stop, and it doesn't always do it.
It doesn't make the noise when accelerating, in fact, the noise quits when I accelerate. The noise sounds like metal being drug on concrete, or a grinding sound. Is this a possible bearing going out on the alternator or possibly the AC clutch/bearing? The noise is not present during normal driving conditions, just when the car is almost at a stop and stops as acceleration occurs. I have reached in to see if possibly a loose pulley/bad bearing on the alternator, but there is no slack there. Is it possible that I have the alternator belt too tight, or is this another issue?
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My 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
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I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
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A couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
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About a week or two ago, when driving home, my battery light flicked on while at a stop light. Also, as the light wen t green and I accelerated away, I noticed a kind of 'whine' from the engine, like a turbine spinning up. By the time I got home it was fine again and the light out, and has been until today, when it happened again...I noticed that it happens if I have the AC on and I'm at a stop. If I turn off the AC when waiting at traffic lights, that seems to eliminate the battery light, but I still here the whine.
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