There is a low buzz sound when I have my foot on the gas pedal. It doesn't seem to effect acceleration or anything. At first I thought it was a wheel bearing but the noise disappears when I remove my foot from the pedal. The Sebring has 65K miles on it.
View 4 RepliesLet me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
View 5 RepliesIn May 2011, I got into the passenger side of my 2006 Sebring to find the foot area full of water, and it wouldn't stop pouring in. So I had work done on the AC unit to fix a broken plastic part on the firewall. I am a snowbird who travels to Florida every fall, and subsequent to that work being done, I have had to have a line (?) cleared because the water drips into the driver's side when I turn right. After clearing the line, it seems to be ok. This year, I had the line cleared and the problem persisted. My mechanic cannot figure out what's going on.
View 2 RepliesMy girlfriend's 2006 Chrysler Sebring is suffering from a horn that randomly honks. No action on the part of the driver is needed for the horn to blow, in fact it goes off by itself in the middle of the night sometimes, for minutes without end.
View 2 Replies2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. This car is driving me crazy. Last summer, we drove it from Denver to San Diego. The trip was perfect but within minutes after we arrived the car would not restart. It has been towed to mechanics 5 times and had the starter replaced twice, the battery, pndlr switch each replaced and of course they always find various other things that are needed that don't have anything to do with starting the car. It will work for awhile and then not start again. The last 2 times, we sent it to the mechanic, they jumped it and could not duplicate the situation after several days trying and sent it home. We thought it might be the radio that was installed a few years ago so we removed it, but now the car won't start again.
View 2 RepliesEngine oil has been changed and spark plugs changed. The engine is still making rattling/clicking noise. I checked with a mechanic and he indicated that engine needs to be repaired. Didn't say exactly what needs to be done and stated it would cost about $2200 for parts and labor. Why the engine keeps rattling and making the noise? Oh, before plugs were changed, the engine was shutting off at times when in idle mode.
View 5 RepliesI bought a 2006 Sebring convertible in Florida last winter. The driver's car door made a loud crack sound every time I opened it, so I had it fixed in May and returned up north. I have returned to Florida and after a couple of times opening the door with no problems, the loud crack sound started again. Is there another, connecting part, they should have looked at, or replaced, or does it need yet another replacement part?
View 3 RepliesAbout a week or two ago, when driving home, my battery light flicked on while at a stop light. Also, as the light wen t green and I accelerated away, I noticed a kind of 'whine' from the engine, like a turbine spinning up. By the time I got home it was fine again and the light out, and has been until today, when it happened again...I noticed that it happens if I have the AC on and I'm at a stop. If I turn off the AC when waiting at traffic lights, that seems to eliminate the battery light, but I still here the whine.
View 4 RepliesI have a "05" Prius problem that I'm stumped on. I have 165k miles. I am the original owner and have maintained this car really well and it really runs incredible. I just started to hear a strange new whirring/winding sound coming from the front when driving. When accelerating it goes quiet. When I let off on the gas it starts whirring. Between 40-45 MPH if I let off on the gas it will whir but then when I drop below 40MPH it does it intermittently. It almost sounds like it is attempting to slow the car down . I've looked over the forum and other sites and hear about other sounds like this (ex: A/C motor), but nothing that matches my symptoms. I can say this, it in no way affects the performance of the car, just very annoying. If it is serious I would like to jump on it right away and try for 200K .
View 3 RepliesWhen I take my foot off the brake pedal quickly, like after a stoplight has turned green, the brake pedal makes a “clump!” sound. I have looked at the pedal mechanism and it is for sure coming from that area. It sounds as if a rubber bumper should be there, but is not. When I take my foot off more slowly, no sound comes from the area. Is this something I need to put on my 5K checkup list? My car has 1700 miles on it now.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 sonata limited with 54000 miles. When I lightly press on the gas pedal I hear a buzz like a relay from the center of the dash. It does not do it all the time. but It is getting very annoying. What could be wrong?
View 5 RepliesHave a 06 Grand Caravan 3.8L that suddenly quit and would start back up easily enough, but one had to keep foot on the gas to keep it going.
I pulled two codes:
P0123-throttle postion sensor 1 high
P0508-IAC valve sensor circuit low/undercurrent
So far I have removed the IAC and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner, cleaned throttle body out as well with the spray, installed new EGR since it got mangled trying to remove it for cleaning. Removed the TPS connector and with key on, took measurements and I am getting a reference voltage proper ( almost 5 volts). I then back probed the connector once it was plugged back in and again things checked out, the reference lead was varying between .7 and 4.7 volts as I manually moved the throttle plate.
I had switched out the IAC with a used one, from an engine that had been running before being parked, but it made no change.
Note: I have a new TPS but am holding off on changing it until I investigate whether or not it may have a clogged fuel filter causing it to stall at idle speed. Now if can just locate where it is..the sketchy diagrams in my Alldata program are useful.
After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
Changed timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
View 3 RepliesGot a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
View 1 RepliesMy oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
View 19 RepliesI recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).