Stalling - Honda :: Engine Stopped When Cold
May 16, 2015
Last year we passed down our 97 Honda Accord (automatic) to our new driver son. A couple of months ago he started complaining that it was stalling when stopped at lights. Now it's stalling while he's moving.
We bought this car 15 years ago. It now has 165,000 miles on it. Last month we took it in to our trusted mechanic and had $2000 of repairs done: timing belt, power steering... The list was pretty comprehensive.
It didn't work. We took it back to the mechanic and they hooked it up to a sensor and drove it 100 miles over two days and couldn't get it to stall. We are starting to realize that it's only stalling when the engine is cold; within a few blocks of where it has sat for hours (home or the high school). Mechanic is stumped.
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My wife drives a 2002 civic (mostly around town). when the car is at running temp.with the heater on and she gets top a stop sign or red traffic light, the heater starts to blow out cold/colder air. We took the car to a dealer and asked them to flush/fill the radiator and fix the problem. Well they flushed/filled the radiator and said "Yup, it still does it. Would you like us to diagnose the problem more for a minimum of 1 hour labor cost?" What could be the problem with the reduction in heat?
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So my honda 95 civic 1.5 engine is stalling out I think that it is my transmission so Im going to check that out in the morning my question is how much do I put in I watched a video on how to do it, do I need to put 3 quarts of the fluid in it or can I sneak by with just 2 quarts.
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I just bought this 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis with 87k on it. It runs and idles smoothly, good gas mileage, no sign of trouble--except a cold start. It actually starts fine, but when I shift into drive the engine dies. If its 0, it just dies. If I idle it a minute or two, it will do OK. At 20 degrees, it slows like its going to die, but then recovers. Once I have it running in drive (or reverse) it behaves completely normally. Since this thing is presumably computer controlled with no adjustments, I am puzzled. The only clue is that this was an estate-probated car, and probably sat around for 6 months or so. I had no clue on purchase--probably because the seller warmed it up before I got there to try it out.
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Got my oil changed on my 2009 Honda Odyssey at one of those cheap places. They also changed the air filter. Four miles later my engine seized up and the car stopped dead. I called them and they came right out. I did not watch them check the oil. They claimed it was full of oil and tried to start the poor thing about 20 more times--each time with my engine jumping and sounding terrible. I had it towed to their shop where they told me this morning that the van is running fine and "there must have been an air pocket in the throttle body". Is this BS? What do I do now? I have two kids and I can't afford to have another roadside drama. Is the engine going to blow up on me in a month? I have not yet picked up the van from the shop.
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I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
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On Tuesday July 16th was driving along AC was on and all of sudden I heard a squeal coming from the engine compartment. The AC stopped blowing cold air then the A/C light started the flash (manual Air conditioning). I turned off the AC and finished out my day with the windows open.. I have read the post about the flashing A/C light but I am wondering if I should address the squeal 1st I only hear it when the A/C is turned on.. 2006 Camry V6 137K miles.
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For the past week, my wife's 2004 GX A/C has been blowing hot air off and on. At first I thought this was due to low refrigerant but after pressure testing it appears to be full. Yesterday afternoon I was driving the car home and the A/C was blowing cool air then suddenly stopped again, I happened to look at the engine temperature gauge and noticed it creeping to "H". I shut down the air all together, pulled over and it cooled. The gauge actually stayed below the half way point the rest of the way home, until I had to stop at a light, then it slowly climbed up to the "H" again, the lowered as I drove to a cruising speed 55MPH. One home, I looked at the coolant reservoir and there was no fluid in it (not sure if this is normal) and there was no sign of smoke or fluid leaking. Could this be a thermostat issue, radiator issue, loss coolant issue???
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I bought a new Honda fit Auto couple days ago, while getting ready to go from first job site to 2nd one, I wasn't paying attention (was adjusting the seat), I had my foot on the acceleator instead of brake. Of course, when I start the car, it cranks and follow by a high rev sound from the engine (I think I hold it half way for about 2 seconds) before realize my mistake and lift off the pad. The car was sitting in the parking lot for 4 hours about 5 degree outside (I drove the car for 40 minutes 4 hours ago). I heard cold starting your car while reving it is not a good idea. especially on a new car that needs break it. I am just wondering if this step cause any perm damange to the engine? After couple of days of driving, it sounded fine with no issue (though on the same day, when I arrived at my 2nd work place after that first debacle, the car took 2 cranks to get it start).
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I have a 1991 Honda that has a quirk which is driving me nuts. When I turn off the engine, the key won't readily come out. It's especially difficult when the temperature is below 40 degree's. I've replaced the key at a Honda dealer, which my mechanic suggested, but to no avail. I shake the gear shifter repeatedly which doesn't seem to work. I sprayed lubricant into the key hole. It's frustrating to have to sit and wait a couple of minutes to exit my car.
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2004 Honda Accord with 120k miles sounds like an old sewing machine when cold for a few minutes (less than 5). The exact sound is on a video on youtube: [URL..... Dealer said they can't find it. Car has been maintained well and all services have been done. I've heard a lot of guesses (all expensive) but no solutions. Dealer finally got tired of me asking about it and said to just ignore it (turn up the volume on the radio).
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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My 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
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I have a 2000 honda civic with 120,000 miles on it. recently, on cold starts (when i haven't turned the engine for a day) i've noticed a rapid vibrating or rattling noise about 30 seconds or so after i've turned the ignition. this noise lasts for maybe 15 to 20 seconds then it goes away, presumably as the engine has warmed a little.
I do drive a lot, and during the day even after the car has not been running for a few hours this noise doesn't occur. Only happens on the cold starts. I hope it's nothing major. I've attached a video with the sound. about 30 seconds into the video you will hear the noise kick in. (if the video doesn't show below here is the youtube link: [URL] ....
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On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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Car has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
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My 2005 V8 starting intermittant stalling when stopped for a light/ when cruising at 40 MPH; the car restarts, runs for 30 seconds and then conks out. Had the car towed to selling dealing (3000 miles since end of April, 05) and now waiting for a diagnosis. Dealer claims they have never seen this problem before.
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My 06 Elantra started to stall / misfire when I was driving it. It doesn't seem to matter how fast I am traveling as it will " misfire" for lack of a better word. It has an automatic transmission, and the rpm's will start to bounce as the car begins to jerk when this occurs.
I don't live anywhere near a dealership, so I brought it to the garage that I take my other vehicles to, and they had a hard time diagnosing the problem due to the fact that there never was an error code coming up or check engine light. They ended up finding a bad coil and changed it out.
That was 2 months ago and I haven't had a problem with it till today when the exact same issues resurfaced. And again no check engine light comes up, just the misfiring and when stopped at intersections, subsequent stalling.
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05 Nissan Altima CVT 91k was running great until last week, it stalled while sitting at a traffic light, restarted the engine and ran fine but check engine sign lit up. Today at 60-70 mph engine hesitated once but was noticable, and took 3 cranks to get it to start after re-fuelling. Plugs were replaced at 55k, air filter is clean and was new 4 months ago anyway. Autozone read P0335 and P0725 something about a crankshaft and engine timing sensors?
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Why my Camry is stalling. Here is the situation: yesterday I had my battery disconnected for several hours while removing the seats from my vehicle so I could clean the carpet. When I put everything back together and reconnected the battery the car started up and ran without any problem. I then went out to run some errands and the car stalled while stopped at a stop sign. I put the car in park and it started right back up. Any time I come to a stop the engine idles to slowly.
I had this same issue a couple of years ago and a technician at my Toyota dealership said there was a sensor that needed to "learn" my driving habits (like how fast or slow to idle). The guy was correct and after a few days of dealing with stalling at red lights I have had no issues.
So I would like to know what this sensor is called and if this whole thing sounds right. To me it seems like a problem that the vehicle would want to stall. I could see myself getting rear ended by someone assuming I am going to make a turn when I am stalled.
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