Start - Honda :: At Start Up Runs For 10 Seconds Then Shudders And Turned Off?
Jun 11, 2016
My car was sitting outside and wasnt started for about 4 months. It has a brand new battery so when I went to start it, it started right up first crank, ran smooth for 10 seconds then you hear the sound of a ton of water being bubbled and pushed out the exhaust, then the car studders and turned off. There was a big puddle of water near the exhaust. I tried starting the car the day after a few times and all it does is crank but will not start, battery is 100% and its cranks with no problem but will not start at all, it's like dead, the check engine light went on after trying to crank it today too. I'm lost. I figured there was too much water pressure in the exhaust but nope won't start now, the battery is good, electronics are good, has fresh gas, not sure about the lines but like I said it started right up yesterday.
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My 2002 Dodge Stratus shudders only for a few seconds when I start the car (sometimes). What this could be?
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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My 2004 Prius is due in the shop Tues for a hybrid battery replacement. Codes indicate only one cell bad BUT...It is obviously having some problem running. We were very low on gas yesterday but wife filled it before she came home.
She parked it in garage. The Hy Batt indicated all green bars. She may not have pressed the Park button before Power - I do that a lot too.
This AM I changed the spark plugs before I tried to start it. I then started it (ICE & started-sounded OK) and backed it DOWN the driveway into the street and started down the street. The ICE stopped.
The batt indicated one blue bar so the batt would not propel it. After trying a couple times to make it run, I disconnected the 12v grd and let it sit for an hour. Then I reconnected the batt and the ICE again started showing hybrid at 4 blue bars and stopped after a few seconds. Tried it once or twice more, same thing.
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96 civic 120K miles, stock, automatic.
In March I was running low on fuel, maybe 1 gallon left in the tank. It took a few cranks and on the last try i gave it a little gas and it started, albeit very rocky for about 1 minute of driving, filled up immediately and 2 freeway miles later, no real issues. I live in LA so very low ambient temperature is not a problem.
April through May, starting was a little rocky, it was inconsistently rocky too, sometimes there was no problem. Usually it's weak, stuttering, sometimes just cranking but I seem to get it to start. I stopped giving the pedal gas because I read that's bad (I own a vintage bike, so it's news to me). I don't drive that far and figured I'd try some Seafoam and some freeway miles would clean out any debris. Worked for that tank a bit for the next tank before the problem came back.
Still getting the rough starts, but now when I give the car gas as I pull out sometimes it doesn't accelerate for 15-30 seconds, maybe 25 yards then it drive like normal. No dying at all but getting worse with starting up.
I've tried turning the key (not turning the engine over) 5 times and cranking on the 6th and it seems to work. I thought maybe it's the fuel pump or fuel filter but read it could be an ignition coil/ spark plug/ spark plug wire issue. Two different ball games.
My MPG is not really droppingI had a new fuel filter put in in February as routine maintenance (thing was on so tight had to bring it to a shop so no rookie mistakes there). Timing belt &water pump replaced 6,000 miles ago
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I've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
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My 2004 CRV sometimes hesitates to start and twice now has stalled seconds after starting. When driving it feels as if it is dragging, like the brake is on or the car is in wrong gear (automatic). I just got a new battery a month ago. Mileage is 197K. I am told it could be the starter or alternator and that it will be costly. Could this be the problem or could it be something else?
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Our Pilot has started having an intermittent problem where it won't turn over, just a single click when you turn the key. The rest of the electrical things work. We recently had all of the sparkplug cables replaced 'cause of rats chewing. We had it towed to the dealer; they kept it overnight but it started for them.
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Is it possible for the engine fan to start running on my honda civic while the car is turned off and has been off for hours? My husband claims that it was so hot in the garage last night that the fan on the car started running. I think it was the house air conditioner that he heard, but he insists it was the car engine fan. I think he's up in the night!! So...is it him, or me, that's up in the night?!
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My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
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I have 1994 ranger 2.3 2wd will not start when key is turned to start position - when clutch is depressed there is a click from fender mounted solenoid but it never cranks motor or starter--I need wiring diagram to trace origin of wire on starter solenoid because it does not have 12volts on it--when I jumper 12v on it and have it in neutral it starts up and runs but no voltage and no start with key....
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For over a year, the truck took 5-6 seconds of cranking to start, but always started. This morning it started, but shakes, coughs, and vibrates like hell. It revs up but still sounds like its hitting only on a few. replaced ciols many times over the years, but this sounds different.
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So my story starts simple enough; I ran out of gas in my buddy's car, filled it back up, it finally started but ran like >poop< for the first 10 min or so. Finally after coaxing for 10-15 min, she stays coming around. After 30 min or so of driving, I could drive her all I wanted, so long as I didn't let it idle below 12-1500 rpm. If I did that, she'd kill, and stall out. Well I drove her the other day for most the day and it seemed the kinks were worked out. So today when I tried to drive her round the block for a final check, she up and dies, and hasn't started since. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the intake, and dropped a can of sea foam in to the tank to boot, but no dice.Signs and symptoms seem to mimic a bad mass air flow sensor or possibly a clogged catalytic converter, with the exception that it only shudders and acts congested on low rpm's and doesn't choke out at high revs.
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My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
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A fault has returned. Last spring the 1.6 diesel Golf (105HP) would not start.
The RAC first diagnosed a faulty battery and replaced it. Then they diagnosed a faulty start solenoid.
My local service garage replaced the starter. Had good reliable starting for 6months. Two days ago my car would not start.
RAC diagnosed a suspect poor engine earth strap. "Get it fixed."
But when I got home and switched off, I noticed that the radiator fan had turned on at full speed. and ran and ran very noisily. I switched on the ignition and the fan went off.
Switched off the ignition and near silence, A little background hum and this stopped when the dash went out about a 20second delay. Then about 30seconds later the fan came on at full speed.
I checked again about 15minutes later, still full speed.
Attached my battery charger, so that I would not have a flat battery in the morning. It finally went off after about 40minutes.
Last night I came home and the same fan on after a delay of about a minute after switch off.
This time the fan was still running after 90minutes. Attached the battery charger again and went to bed.
The fan was off at 0730hrs, but at 0745hrs it was back on after standing in sub zero conditions all night.
Even with the charger working the battery is virtually flat, because the fan is drawing more current than the charger can supply.
I disconnected the battery and it's on charge now. Hopefully It'll have enough charge to get me to the shops and back (22mile round trip and typical of my running, the nearest big town is 20 miles away). What is going on?
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2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 will run barely for about 20 sec. shudders, then dies. Bought new, driven 334K miles. Performed the usual fixes common to 7.3 issues over the years. All original injectors except for #7 which I replaced about 5 yrs ago. (I know should have replaced in sets but not in the budget at the time). Anyway had my wife turn the engine over after I had removed valve covers for inspection and observed a lot of smoke coming out of what appears to be at or around number 7 rocker arm valley? All rocker arm/pushrods look to be moving as they should beyond that I'm in over my head. Am I screwed or could it possibly just be a bad injector/injectors?
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1995 G20 5.7L... This van runs great when first started and continues to run fine after it's warmed up and will do so until it’s turned off and restarted. When first started vacuum at idle is steady at 21” and 10” at 55mph cruising speed. I can continue driving for an hour or so and it will continue to run fine. It's only when I shut it down and restart after 20 minutes or so that I have a rough running condition. After parking for 10 to 20 minutes and restarting idle is still steady at 21” vacuum but the van hesitates on acceleration and runs rough at cruise with a 5” vacuum. If I continue to drive I get low vacuum trouble codes for the MAP and Oxygen sensors. I’ve replaced the oxygen sensor and performed a diagnostic on the MAP sensor which checks out ok. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks – none found. I've replaced the spark plugs, cap and rotor. What to look at next?
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Having some issues with my 2003 Alero 4 cylinder. Upon start the entire engine shudders and the check engine light flashes. I have to turn it off and turn it on and it will stop most of the time. I've taken it in and the mechanics can't get it to reproduce the same issue for them. Just replaced all four plugs, boots, ignition coil.
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I'm working on my sons 1985 Celica GT 22RE. He was having problems with it running rough.
I've isolated it down to the number 1 cylinder being starved on warm starts. If you cold start it the problem does not occur but if you let it sit warm for 15 minutes it will fire up but nothing from number one cylinder. Lots of spark but no firing. So I'm going to tear down the EFI and move the injector to see if the problem follows it. Will probably see if I'm getting any voltage to the injector while rough before tearing down.
I can't find anything about an injector not working once warm so I'm thinking it may be an ECU problem.
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I have a 89 dodge dakota and it starts sometimes and other times it don't start at all. When it does start and runs for a few min it will randomly die and when I try to start it after it dies it wont start back up. Me and my dad just fixed the starter relay yesterday and it started every time after that, now today it wont start. New coil, fuel pump, and fuel filter are new.
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