Subaru - Legacy :: Slight Rough Running With Cold Engine And Stumble Below 2000 Rpm / CEL Misfire Code
Apr 13, 2014
I have had some slight rough running with a cold engine and stumble <2000rpm. Finally it tripped a CEL which was read as a misfire code.
The mechanic swapped the coil and plug(recent) and no change. He did a compression test and air blew out the exhaust. So.......the car needs a valve job which entails motor removal and fixing the head and reinstall. He rough estimates this at $2000 and rate is $65/hr.
He mentioned looking at pistons and may be a bit more if rough.
This car well maintained (170,000 miles 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with manual)...
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I have a 1990 3.1L, multiport fuel injection (NOT sequential FI), which runs very well most of the time. However, when I cold start it runs rough (misfire) for about 1 minute (no throttle) or until acclerated. The is no misfire when running normal, but it might be running a little rough when stopped at a traffic light (in Drive, foot on brake).
I put new plugs and wires on, but it did not affect this problem.
I am not using coolant, or oil, the plugs that were removed were somewhat worn, enough that I expected to notice a difference after they were changed.
I have not yet (1) cleaned the MAF, (2) checked carefully for vacuum leaks, (3) checked for leaking injectors.
Since this is a 1990, OBDI, I can't say which cylinder is misfiring or how the fuel trims look etc.
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I had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast.after let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
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2000 4.2....Last year I had to replace the coil pack when it started running rough and had a code for a misfire on cylinder 3. It is doing the exact same thing now, same code, same cylinder. Is there something wrong that is causing this?
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In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
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Okay so last year i bought a 2000 celica gt manual with 50,000 miles, and currently has 67,000 miles. A few days ago I started to notice the engine was running rough and then about 10 miles later the chack engine light came on. I promptly went to the auto parts store to read the code. I was informed I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Naturally i replaced the spark plugs with NGK iridium, reset and rechecked engine code. Same code. Next i swapped the coils from 1 and 2, reset and rechecked. same code. I then swapped fuel injectors from 1 and 3, rest and rechecked. Same code. So now i am a bit stumped.
Only faulty equipment prior to this incident would be 2nd gear synchronizer. Only applicable above 5,800 RPM.
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Just started getting a p0300 random misfire code on the durango a couple days ago. pretty sure it isn't moisture related since it started on a nice sunny day. it was running pretty rough so it was obvious that it was misfiring. I changed the plugs since it was about time anyway, and they needed it and I cleared the codes. new plugs (put in the oem champion copper plugs) didn't make the problem go away. The engine still ran rough and the code came back. 2 of the plugs looked like they may have been fouling a little bit. they were a fair bit blacker than the rest of the plugs. I went ahead and changed the coils on those two cylinders and reset the codes again. Still runs rough and the p0300 came back. where do I go from here? I am not getting any specific cylinder codes so it makes sense to me that it isn't one or two cylinders not getting spark. 2003 durango 4.7 ....
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My moms has a 2010 Elantra with 30,000kms on the clock, and we have noticed since new when the vehicle is started cold in the morning it seems to run rough for about 30-60 seconds then stabilizes.
It's almost like it has a slight misfire, or slight fuel flooded from sitting overnight. Now if course we have taken it to the dealership twice for this issue and dropped it off overnight for a cold start, and both times they cannot re-produce the problem.......surprise.
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So I have been unable to figure this problem out and so had my mechanic, I am starting to think this car is cursed. I have an 07 outback with about 54000 miles on it, a few weeks ago it through a P0303 for a misfire in the third cylinder, thought nothing of it, light went off in the next couple starts and the car was running great. Had this happen a couple more times but only after the car had been out in the rain. Each time the problem went away. Now the car has sat in my garage for four days, I got out to start it and get an extremely long crank but no turn over. Try again and after 5-6 seconds car turns over but is running really rough and stalls out. Disconnected the battery checked hoses, everything looked normal, reconnected the battery and now the car is running fine.
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As the title says, my car has been leaking oil. I noticed it several months ago and took it to a shop and they said that it it might be leaking from the engine seals. I think they replaced all but the rear seal, because that would have cost a lot more because they would have to pull the engine.
It seemed ok for a while (or maybe I just didn't notice), but now I've noticed that it continues to drip oil, but since it hasn't been fixed by replacing the other seals, I am hesitant to bring it back to the guys who worked on it the first time.
I looked under the car and hood and tried to see if I could tell where the oil is leaking from but it's not apparent to me. I looked at the oil pressure sending switch and, as far as I can tell, I don't see any dripping there, although it does look kinda grimy around that area, but it's hard to tell if it's oil or just run-of-the-mill dirt.
I took a few pics : mauk52.jpg1600x1200
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I have a 97 F150 4.6. The truck has developed a slight stumble/misfire when under acceleration. Once at speed it runs fine. It has not given any codes. I've checked for them several times. The plugs and wires have been changed. Is it possible that a coil pack could be bad without throwing a code?
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I have a 2000 LC that has a few symptoms - intermittent misfire/running rough at these times it has:
dark smoke
uses 3 times the fuel
loss of power (to normal)
will pick up revs slow without running rough and runs normal at high revs.
dies misses and then picks up revs slowly when accelerator is pushed fast to the floor from idle.
Hyundai mechanics checked computer and it coded change spark plug leads this did not fix the problem, and have no idea.
About 6 months ago the car was doing the intermittent thing when it died and liquid was heard splashing on the ground. I found the main petrol line connecting to the pump had come completely off. After replacing all problems ceased and the car ran perfect with full power etc.
I've checked the fuel lines none appear to be leaking etc.
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I have a 2000 excursion 4x4 v10 with 90k. The past few months I've noticed a tug or miss fire at low RPM (2000 AN UNDER) the past week its gotten worse, some occasional rough idol and the missing is getting worse. Whats wrong?? I don't want to take it to ford yet! No Check Engine Light yet...
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I get check engine codes p0301 p0302 p0303 and p0304. Sometimes just one or two sometimes all four. It only happens in fifth gear at or above 2800 rpm. There is no noticeable misfire; my gas mileage is 25mpg and like the advice below, I've changed the wires, and spark plugs but not the coils nor the injectors. I've reset the codes numerous times; it comes back regularly but only in fifth gear at the higher speeds.
The car: Subaru legacy AWD wagon 1999, 2.5 liter 5 speed manual transmission.
To state the obvious, checking for electrical problems is a process of elimination. I've included some points I got elsewhere online to narrow down the cause. What is not discussed, but has been brought up by parts salesman are the sensors. There's five, a cam and a crank sensor as well as three speed sensors. Which sensor that's failing would cause such specific engine codes.
Talking points:
"for piston misfires If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back."Check engine light comes back on
"If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs)."There are no noticeable symptoms.
"Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable)."Done.
"Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced."It passed smog with flying colors. I'm not sure how to check the coil packs but since it doesn't actually seem to miss, I'd think to look elsewhere. -- maybe I'm wrong here.
"I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors." Same conclusion as above.
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We have a '96 Subaru Legacy Wagon with about 175K on it. Bought used. Ran OK for 2 years and suddenly we get this: going up a hill, even a slight, steady grade for more than a block or two, the car starts shuddering...power ebbs...car slows...check engine light flashes madly...it turns into a cartoon car with tongue dragging out, then dies if you don't pull over and let it pant like a dog. If it dies,one can restart it in half a minute or so.
Our excellent mechanic cleaned engine, valves, checked fuel-related stuff, replaced things, even worked on it for free because he was so stumped. Consulted w/worldwide Subaru experts. Conclusion: some cylinder/valve or something has sort of carved itself a new notch and so doesn't seat properly, evinces itself under pressure of grade or hill, would cost 2-3K to fix...an amount we simply don't have.
I'm doomed to drive this thing for the next 2-3 years, finding grade-less routes in my hilly Northwest city--not an easy task, but got to keep it chugging. Works beautifully on the flat (should I move to Kansas?). Will happily charge up a one-block hill as long as you then go sideways on the flat for a block or two. Big Sigh Here. Whether it could be some other problem? One website yaks about catalytic converters breaking up and blocking lines.
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Here is my situation : I have a F150 1999 4x4 ext cab with 326 000 km. A little while ago I got a P0401 code so I decide to clean the TB first and at the same time change plugs and wires since they were overdue. The same code came back and a misfire. Ordered EGR valve, DPFE sensor and selenoid. Realize that I had ordered crappy plugs by mistake. I change all plugs. Had to wait for the EGR valve and others to arrive. I drove the truck for a while since I did not have the time to change the valve and others, during that time the misfire did not come back. Yesterday I change the EGR and others. Today I get a truck that runs really rough and got new codes , P0305 and P0174. I'm really confused now on what should be my next step, should I change the coils, can a P0305 cause a P0174. Should I change vacuum hose going to the EGR , selenoid and DPFE.
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So I just had both cats replaced and now the car is running very rough and trowing out mis-fire codes. What could cause this? Going to disconnect the battery to reset the computer to see if that might work.
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2004 accent, manual, 114k miles. for the last 2-3 years it had a slight stumble at idle, and it was getting 36-38 mpg mostly highway. As part of a check on the starter function, I carefully cleaned the corrosion off of both thick wires going to the starter solenoid. When I started it again, the stumble was gone. Then, after almost 400 miles of mostly hy driving, my mileage was 42+. It has never been that high. Is it possible that the corroded wires caused both a stumble and increased fuel consumption? I did nothing else to the car, and most of the hy driving was freeway at very high speed.
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A couple questions I have about my truck. I'm still new to the F150.
First, my truck has an Ecoboost and I have a slight stumble/hesitation when you start the truck cold. It clears up within 10 seconds and doesn't seem to affect drivability whatsoever.
Second, it seems that only my driver side mirror has the "dimming feature" to it. Is this normal?
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord Ex that began to run very rough when cold. After warming up it seemed fine. Now the car runs rough whether hot or cold. The car only has 23,000 miles on it. The cap, rotor, and wires all appear to be good.
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