Toyota - Celica :: 2001 Dies Every Time When Fill The Tank With Gas
Apr 22, 2012
I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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Hyundai Accent 2001. Not long after I bought it (from a cowboy, obviously) I filled up my petrol tank to full and as I was pulling out of the petrol station the car stalled and wouldn't start.
This keeps happening every time I fill it up, I can just barely drive it as long as I keep my revs up, but if I start to slow down (when approaching traffic lights etc) the car just stalls.
My check engine light is on but a mechanic just said that was because of a sensor and I don't need to worry about it, I'm not very good with cars so didn't really think much of it.
I can also smell petrol sometimes and when I unscrew my cap on my tank it sometimes hisses (is this normal after driving 30 minutes?)
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This is for my previous car that I used to own in 2005. It was a 1992 Honda Accord and the issue it had was anytime I went to the gas station to fill up the gas, the car refused to start and I would need to jump start the vehicle every time. I used to take the DC metro to work everyday, so I did not have to use the car as much, but it was a hassle. This happened all through the year and I was just used to carrying a Jump Starter Box with me in the car. There were no other issues with the car. I do not recall needing a jump start any other time. This one time, I forgot to keep my car in the garage and it was out in the snow all weekend. Come Monday morning, I started the car without any issues. I went to a friends place about 10 miles away and then tried to fill gas at a gas station near his place and it died at the gas station. I do not have the car with me now, having totaled it in an accident couple of years ago. But I was always amazed at this and would like to know what would cause something like this.
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I have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.
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Background: My 02 camry (155k) ran great but I noticed grease/oil on the front of the engine so I had a local mechanic take a look. He replaced the front valve cover gasket, timing belt, and while he was in there, the water pump. He made me take it to the dealer to reset/recalibrate the stability control sensor because after disconnecting the battery to perform the work my "VSC", "trac off" and check engine lights were on. I got it back along with a list of work they thought I needed (replace the rear valve cover gasket, dog bone engine mount, and a bunch of bs I don't need).
Problem: Quickly my check engine light is back on. I fill up gas and I can't get it to turn over. The owner of the shop gets it to turn over by gassing it a bunch while turning the key. My mechanic later tells me the check engine light is due to a bum gas cap. He replaces that and the dog bone mount. Next day check engine is back on AND the next time I get gas the same thing happens - it won't turn over until I gas it, then it turns over and stalls a few times until I really gas it and it turns over and takes. Every other time I try to start the car it turns over first try. Both times I filled up I wasn't close to running out of gas or anything. I don't think the gas cap or the fuel injectors went bad coincidentally the same day the dude had his hands in the engine.
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My gas gauge is intermittent. most of the time it reads right, but like 30% of the time it shows empty regardless of how full the tank is. What would cause this?
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At seemingly random times when I take my Elantra to the gas station it will only fill the tank about half way before clicking off. After doing some quick google searches I'm leaning towards something being wrong with CCV system. I read that over filling the tank can cause debris to clog the system and a few months back my father-in-law borrowed it he has a tendency to overfill the gas tank. But I've also read that there's an error code that tends to pop up with it and so far there's been none. Either way I'm not familiar with how the CCV and related systems work.
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I have an 04 Elantra GT. My gas gauge is showing full but the car is running out of gas. I try to fill the tank and I get the annoying click and after trying for a few, gas comes up the filler and overflow tube and makes a mess. At the same time, I was getting a P0449 code. I got an evap canister from the junkyard and that seems to have gone away.
Tried diagnosis but dropping the fuel tank to access the lines. When I jack the tank back up into position, you can hear gurgling sounds and as if the gas is coming up the fill tube. I also opened the access panel under the seat to see the pump assembly and when I removed the 8mm bolts, gas came pouring out. There was definitively gas in there. Checked the float on the pump assembly and it moved?
There is also something at the fuel neck at the top. Don't know what it is and if that could also be part of the problem.
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Son was unable to fill his car's gas tank, 2002 Elantra (but happens to all cars sometimes).
The vapor lock on the pump kept shutting the gas flow off.
This was caused by the tanks vapor exhaust being unable to exit while filling, so the only place to go was back up through the gas fill hole.
The charcoal filter had sprung a leak so the zillions of tiny little charcoal pellets pour from the filter into the rubber hose clogging it.
The Filter is $150 at Hyundai. Not available at AutoZone or OReilys.
Very simple to replace a couple bolts a few hose clamps.
Strange problem, thats no one at work had encoutnered before. A few Hyundai mechanics had heard of it and worked it before.
Also could be Purge Valve or Vent Valve solenoids...search EAP system too if your having this issue of not being able to fill your tank with gas, without 500000 vapor locks shutting the pump off!
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I had a new Fuel Pump put in the cheaper plastic one into my 2001 F250 5.4 with a 112,000 miles.
Problem I am having since getting it back is when filling the gas tank up it will shut the pump off at 3/4 tank. I then have to sit there playing the squeezing game to get more gas in. The vent line looks fine no kinks in it and the tank looks level so what could be the issue causing me this headache?
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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I have a 90 toyota celica st. I was driving it the other day and it died on me while driving... twice! The second time was going down a steep hill and it was freaken scary for a minute as the breaks were not working, the car started again and I was able to stop! Anyway I know enough about cars that once your car starts it should not die. Could it be the alternator? It seems to start up just fine. I did notice though that when the car died on me both times I was taking a pretty sharp right turn. And when it died every thing blinked twice then out went everything. Im sure that it is a code for something but I do not have the owners manual as I was not the original owner. I just started it up today again and it makes a weird clicking noise before I even turn the key.
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My daughters 2002 HYD Elantra engines misses sporadically often every time after a fill up. What it might be. Once some of the gas is used then it stops.
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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I have an automatic '95 Toyota Corolla wagon that over the past year has had intermittent problems dying after turning on the ignition. It happens mostly when starting for the first time in the morning in our carport (which is generally flat) [are there enough red herrings yet?]. However, we can go for weeks without problems. Our battery is relatively new (1yr) and the car starts-- however, sometimes the car dies unless the gas pedal is depressed for long periods of time in neutral or park. If I can pull out of the carport without having the car die, we've never had any problems on the road.
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I got a Toyota Celica 2001 recently from my dad and when I put the throttle all the way to the grown it barley speeds up as if it has some kind of throttle limiter so I can't speed everything else is fine it's a manual I just can't give it gas if I want to speed up really fast or race whatever the case is. How to remove the limiter or whatever else it is ?
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My wife has a 2002 Accent with 117K miles on it. Fuel pump has never been replaced, but fuel filter and PCV valve changed about 5K miles ago.
The problem started when I added some BG44K fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank by way of a funnel. There was no discernable change in the car until my wife tried to fill up with gas...it kept clicking off. This has been going on for some time and it's pretty annoying.
So I do some research and learned that there could be charcoal pellets in the venting lines coming from the charcoal canister. I removed the charcoal canister from the car, and sure enough, there were a lot of little pellets in the hoses. I disconnected all the hoses and shook out all the pellets (not from the box, from the hoses) and connected everything back up. I went to the gas station and...nope, still clicking off every 2 seconds.
Then I removed the fuel filler neck from the car and inspected it. There were no restrictions in the main tube and no restrictions in the tube that runs up the main tube and loops back down the other side. [b]The blue/black check valve was a little clogged, so I blew it out with compressed air. I reinstalled it with the arrow pointing towards the charcoal box - meaning air and/or fuel can travel towards the canister only. Should the check valve be facing the other way? I assume it should, so gases can vent from the canister to the atmosphere - I don't want air/fuel going into the box, right?
I did find a restriction in one of the smaller hardlines that is connected to the fuel filler neck - it was more charcoal pellets. It was really clogged and I had a hard time removing them. At this point, there are no clogs, restrictions or charcoal pellets in any of the lines (including the charcoal canister), yet I still cannot properly fill the tank. Is the check valve now my only problem?
My wife told me today that the car "felt funny" and didn't "go when she stepped on the gas". Another symptom of the check valve?
I'm not entirely sure why adding fuel injector cleaner would have caused this problem.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt, and I had a accident on the front of the car. The only things needed to be replaced was the radiator and the Intake manifold.The car wasn't drivable for about 3 months, but within those 3 months I was able to work on replacing the radiator and the intake manifold ( which a crack on it). Now that I finished working on the car, the engine turns on but then it shuts off immediately. Everything was replace properly, I just don't understand.
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As title says, I cannot fill up tank without pump cutting off every few seconds.
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Like a lot of others, my 2000 Elantra will just barely take gas at the pump. So I've done the research, I think I understand the problem, but when I tried to find the replacement filter, there seem to be 4 different parts ranging from $8 to $180. Which part should I order and order first, or should I just replace them all?
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