Toyota - Engines - Camry :: 1994 - Engine Revving Too High Before Changing Gears And While Driving
Mar 3, 2011
I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. Took it to a shop to repair an oil leak. They had to dismount the transmission to get to the gasket. I got the car back and the transmission was messed up. Took it to a transmission shop and they told me that the transmission "cable" wasn't positioned correctly by whoever had done the work and they could fix it. They told me it was safe to drive it until my appointment. The engine was revving too high before changing gears and while driving home, I heard a loud rattling noise in the engine and my car stopped in the middle of the road. I'm told that a rod has broken inside the engine. My question is: can this in any way be related to the transmission cable not having been set/positioned correctly?
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2002 Ford Escape. My car was sitting for a week in cold weather. I started it yesterday with no problem, but only waited for a minute or two before driving. I was driving at city speeds, and heard a knock. I was accelerating up a hill and it hesitated/ jerked once or twice. The check engine light came on, and now it knocks every few seconds when I am stopped at a light. It also doesn't seem to catch the highest gear (5?) when it shifts, making a constant knocking sound and vibrating. Letting go of the gas or accelerating so it shifts back down makes the noise go away. In other gears it seems fine, with an occasional jump... It is an Automatic V6. I am taking the car in Monday, but I would like to know possible causes.
This morning I let my car warm up for 40 minutes (15 minutes in park and 25 idling at the bus stop). The problem was no better. By knock I meant it feels like someone bumped the engine. My foot vibrates on the brake for a second. And when it changes into the highest gear, it shudders ( until I release or further press the gas pedal. The revs don't change while it is shuddering or knocking.
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I have a 95 Mercury Villager that didn't pass inspection. I put SeaFoam in it before inspection to clean the engine. Now I have been told that it may have caused gunk to loosen up and that I need to run out all of the gas in it and then fill it up and run it at high speeds for a period of time on the highway before I try to get it re-inspected. Since it didn't pass inspection I couldn't get it registered and it is technically not street legal at this point. I'm letting it run in the driveway to burn up the gas. Should I fill it completely when I get gas or should I put just a bit in and run it out a couple of times before I try to get it inspected again? Also, if I put it in park and rev it for 20 mins or so would that be equivalent to driving it on the highway?
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I've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
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I bought a CPO 2010 Camry LE (2.5 4 cyl, 6 sp auto) a few months ago. The car had around 34K miles when I got it, and ever since then, it has had a high pitched whining noise when accelerating or revving the engine in park. It is noticeable from around 2500RPM up, and seems to be a little louder when the engine is cold.
I have left it at the dealer twice, and both times they have come back and said it is normal. I can't believe this, because I have owned many cars over the years, most of them being fairly dilapidated, yet most of them haven't had a noise like this. I think I have read a comment online somewhere that an issue like this was found due to a bad power steering pump .
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When going short distances, half mile to two miles, and I turn off the car it will not REstart. Dash lights come on but engine does not make a sound. No clicking, no engine trying to turn over, nothing. After the car sits for awhile and cools off it starts up with no hesitation at all. If on the road for several minutes the car does not have this problem no matter how far or how many times I turn it off and on. The battery checks out ok. Someone said it could be a ground wire loose. What do you think. Is this something I could do myself?
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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I own a 1996 Corolla DX with an auto transmission which has a few issues I would like to fix. The biggest issue is that sometimes it stays stuck at high RPMs (somewhere near 3,100) without changing gears which makes me have to give it some extra torque momentarily to change gear and drive at normal RPMs. But sometimes it does the opposite, when slowing down it sometimes stays at a higher gear and won't change to a lower gear until I've slowed down almost to a stop.
Another issue is that it is very slow to accelerate, it just feels real heavy and I regularly have to give it a lot of torque just to be at equal speed with the rest of the cars on the road, does this have a fix? Other than that there isn't any major issue that I actually know about, for this reason I'd like to know what place you would recommend me taking my car to get a full checkup to find any issues I don't know about.
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I took my car to a shop today to have some engine stuff checked out. One of the mechanics noticed the vacuum levels would drop to 28-30 hg when changing gears or going into neutral. Is this normal?
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I own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
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I have to over rev the engine to get the van to move. After that the tranny seems to work fine. Tranny fluid level is OK, and it does not smell burnt. After I over rev the engine to get moving, the engine revs seem to get back into sync for the speed I'm doing - usually just as the van starts moving, the over-revving is no longer there. Do I need to adjust the bands??
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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1998 Honda CRV ... Replaced the AC compressor. AC is cold only when the engine is revving above certain rpm. When at a stop, the air is warm...but if I put it into neutral and rev the engine to, let's say, 2000+ rpm, AC gets colder....or when I am driving, obviously. I know everyone is gonna say something about the condenser fan but would it be the fan given above circumstances?
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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My oil pressure had been dropping to 0 for a while. After searching the internet, I replaced the oil sending unit. This seemed to fix the issue for a while - until I was going up some hills, and the engine began revving really high, and the oil pressure once again dropped to 0. I then heard some noise from the engine, so I pulled over and turned it off. I had it towed to a garage, and told the tow driver to NOT start the car, because I thought the oil pump was out, and so no oil was getting to the engine.
I then called the garage, and told them it was coming in, and NOT to start it, because the engine was not getting oil, and I thought oil pump might be bad. They called me back an hour later to tell me they had added some oil and started it, and the engine was gone.
First question, is would a good garage have tried starting the car with the information they had? My expectation was that they would have tried to check things out without starting it.
Second, should I try to replace the oil pump and see if the car starts?
Make: dodge
Model: durango
Model Year: 2000
Odometer Mileage: 205,000
Amount of oil consumed between oil changes: 1 qt
Frequency of oil changes, in terms of both odometer mileage and elapsed time: 6months, 5000 miles
Oil level was checked once every one to two weeks.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 99 that I have owned for a bit over 2 years; it has 97500 miles. After around 2,000 miles after an oil change it starts burning oil (no smoke or smell). I tried to check it often to make sure I am not running on empty. The last time I had to fill it up once and top off a bit another time before the oil change. I recently also changed the serpentine belt.
I thought the serpentine belt was the noise I was hearing when idling. Now, the noise is still there. Does not get worse when accelerating so hoping it is not a engine knock. Was told by Autozone guy that might be the iddle throttle. Hard to describe noise. No clank, almost like something spinning with a noise every 2 seconds.
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My girlfriend has a 2004 Prius with the nav kit and has been having some rather odd issues as of late, of which seemed to have started after she hit an animal. The gas engine in her car seems to be turning on right away when she turns the car on. The engine also sounds quite loud, almost as if it is revving. Her gas mileage has also dropped considerably, from 45-ish down to around 33 mpg. Also, upon stopping, the mileage gauge on her nav screen doesn't immediately go to 99. Instead it sits around in the 40s for a while before jumping up to 99.
Now, she mentioned this to the tech at the dealer when she finally went to get the recall done on her water pump, but the guy said it drove fine and threw no codes. She then took it to another shop who said it threw a P3190 code, but he had never seen this issue and wouldn't know how to fix it.
The only thing I could find while searching around (mainly on this forum) was that it could be a problem with the electric throttle body. The throttle body seems to make sense to me, but she isn't totally convinced. She also has a 200+ mile trip coming up for the holiday season and it would be nice to fix the issue before that.
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My 2003 subaru outback wagon, manual transmission, starting revving about 1500-2000 rpms higher than normal today. When I put the car in neutral, the car revs high sometimes increasing in rpms. Also when i left off the gas the car doesn't decrease in speed or rpms almost like the gas pedal is sticking. I revved the engine while in neutral a few times to try to see if I could get the rpms to drop but that didn't work. I had two belts changed yesterday (excluding the timing belt) and everything was fine with car until today, after driving 70 miles.
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I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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After changing the PCV valve, I decided to rev the engine to test if it was installed tightly. I noticed the engine was not hot yet, but I still revved the engine to 4000 RPM for about 20 seconds (the most stupid thing I have done), then I saw white smoke coming from the engine. I didn't check if there was smoke out of exhaust pipe. After searching the web, I realized I might have damaged the head gasket.
The car is still drivable, and the temperature was normal during the driving. But I feel really bad since I have killed the engine. So, how much damage I might have possibly done to the engine?
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