Toyota - Gasoline - Echo :: 2000 - Gas Overfilled Too Many Times Now Sensor Stuck On
Jan 20, 2012
I got this car recently but had driven it several times before. I had never had trouble before, but now it is a very long process to fill the gas tank (at any station/pump type). There was a thread where someone with a similar problem was asking whether this was related to the cold, but my guess is that I have the same problem as this thread: [URL] ....
...where the car had been overfilled too many times and the overfill sensor was stuck on.
1.) Is the problem indeed with a stuck sensor in the tank?
2.) Is this a do-it-yourself fix? How (specifically, beyond "poke a wire in there")?
3.) I had never heard of this before it happened to me.
If it's not something I can fix, what's a reasonable charge from a mechanic?
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My 2001 automatic Toyota echo speed sensor broke right in half and now the other half is stuck in the differential case (cv shaft housing) and I can not get it out. at all. I'm trying to pull it right back through the hole where it came from but it just simply won't budge. any other method of removal.
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My 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
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I have a Kia Sedona 2004 that got overfilled with oil. It foamed and now we have a stuck lifter. Worst case scenario is that we'll have to replace the engine. Everything electronic works, but the engine sounds like it's about to croak. Should I try to fix the van? Or just give it up and get another one?
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My 2000 Toyota Echo has a strange problem. At 60 mph (+/- 5 mph) the temperature light starts flashing. If i slow down it stops. Coolant level is fine. Car doesn't seem to be overheating. Radiator fan is working. With radiator cap removed coolant is not moving when the car is cold, but heats up and circulates as the car gets to temperature .I have heat in the cabin.
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We have a 2000 Toyota Echo and am having a recurring problem. I have had no luck with the dealership or other mechanic’s. We don’t drive it a whole lot maybe once or twice a week, we usually take my truck. I continually find water standing on top of the engine where the coils and plugs are (it is water not coolant) and the water finds its way into #1 cylinder. I have replaced the gasket on the engine compartment, checked the drain hose from the ac, I even put a little gasket material on the metal cover that covers the top where the coils are. Where the water is coming from and how do I stop it before I buy new coils and plugs?
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears.
It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
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While driving, I noticed that when I floor the gas pedal to go faster, the engine revs up and takes about a second or 2 until the car accelerates. i also noticed that if i let go of the gas pedal while the engine revs then the car doesn't go any faster, it just revs then goes back to normal. Whats going on?
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I just got a 2000 toyota echo from my dad and it is having a strange problem when i turn on the windshield wipers the front two lights for like the parking lights come on and i have replace the wiper motor and it still does it and I also checked my ground wires good this be a pitched wire or the switch going bad ...
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I have a 2000 toyota echo that idles great but starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust when I press the gas in park. When I put the car into drive or reverse the idle sounds like it wants to die and sometimes dies unless I press the gas. When I drive it the car gets to about 10mph and starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust. So far I've removed the coils one at a time while car running and noticed a difference. I've removed each of the injector wires while running and noticed a difference. replaced plugs and replaced the pcv valve replaced fuel filter and ran car with external fuel pump. I'm at a loss at what direction to go next. this all started around the time my alternator died and I replaced it.
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We purchased a car close to a year ago that at some point had the oil overfilled. We've had the engine cleaned out by the dealership and the car runs much better now but we still see smoke when the car is turned on and occasionally when it idles for more than a few minutes. Is this something that will just be an ongoing cycle or is there something else we should be having checked?
The car is a 2002 Toyota Solara, automatic, 120k miles.
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I've recently bought a 2002 toyota corolla wagon. I noticed the transmission fluid of the automatic gearbox has been overfilled. This measurement was with a cold and switched off engine and on a level ground. Is this something I should be concerned about and can it cause damage? Should I have it drained to the normal level or is it ok to keep it this way? I didn't come with a manual so I'm not sure if i measured correctly.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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Car is 2000 Corolla with 58k miles. My front left CV axle was leaking last year so I decided to replace both front CV axles with some generic brand from advanced auto parts (I think the brand was called ToughOne and it was new CV axles..not remanufactured). This was about 5000 miles ago. Before replacing the CV axles, this issue mentioned below never occurred.
The issue is that sometimes, when making slow sharp turns (more evident in right turns) and then immediately coming to a stop, sometimes the CV axles gets "stuck". If I let go of the brakes at the stop...the car rolls backwards (it feels like something is loose and the wheels "freeroll")! During this time, the engine is at 900-1000rpm (it should be 650 at idle). It's like the CV axles get disconnected from the transmission.Then, if I press down the gas pedal a little bit...the engine hits around 1400rpm and the CV axles "connect" again and there is a slight jolt and everything is alright.
This also happens at sudden stops (braking hard). Also a related issue: When making a quick sharp turn at normal speed, as soon as the steering wheel comes back to the center...the engine immediately hits 2300 rpm and then comes back down to 1600rpm. Its like the CV axles are disconnecting (transmission is still engaged and computer detects loss of power and raises engine rpm) and then reconnecting (computer detects power to the wheels are restored...and the engine rpm drops to normal levels).
The transmission fluid is fine, transmission shifts smoothly. Do you think the new CV axles are bad? The mechanic had trouble disconnecting the old axles...so he used a hammer...maybe he bent something?
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