Toyota - Echo :: 2000 - Intermittent Stalling / Little Click While Driving
Jan 22, 2012
My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears.
It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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I have a 2013 Toyota Avalon Hybrid Touring Model.
The vehicle is great, however the clicking noise from the wiper relay is obnoxious. It is only when the intermittent wiper setting is applied that the noise is apparent. You can also duplicate it by manually moving the wiper knob up and down. I showed the dealer this twice, and both times they say it is normal. I will take a video later today and post it to show.
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My daughter has a 2000 (or 2001) Toyota Echo. It has 160,000 miles. The transmission is dead. On the other hand, the engine is in great shape. The mechanic in Georgia has given her a price of $2800. I'm trying to contact them to find out exactly what is going on. Her question: assuming is can be repaired, should she sink the money into it? She asked my opinion, but I'm not a car person by any means.
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My 2000 Toyota Echo has a strange problem. At 60 mph (+/- 5 mph) the temperature light starts flashing. If i slow down it stops. Coolant level is fine. Car doesn't seem to be overheating. Radiator fan is working. With radiator cap removed coolant is not moving when the car is cold, but heats up and circulates as the car gets to temperature .I have heat in the cabin.
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We have a 2000 Toyota Echo and am having a recurring problem. I have had no luck with the dealership or other mechanic’s. We don’t drive it a whole lot maybe once or twice a week, we usually take my truck. I continually find water standing on top of the engine where the coils and plugs are (it is water not coolant) and the water finds its way into #1 cylinder. I have replaced the gasket on the engine compartment, checked the drain hose from the ac, I even put a little gasket material on the metal cover that covers the top where the coils are. Where the water is coming from and how do I stop it before I buy new coils and plugs?
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Car starts normally sometimes. Other times it will not start at all (it sounds like the battery is dead) or it will struggle to start and once it does start the electronics in the car seem to not be getting any power.
While driving the car “clunks” into gear and the car lurches while shifting.
Background: I was driving down the freeway and then suddenly, it seemed as I was in forced into neutral. Immediately got off the freeway and examined the situation. The situation was I no longer had reverse, drive or overdrive. I had gears 1 and 2 though.
Brought the car to the local mechanic and had a used transmission installed. After installing the transmission, the car now lurches when it goes into gear, especially when it goes into drive (around 45 mph). The plan was to bring it back to the mechanic as soon as I would have time, however before that happened, my car started to struggle to start. Finally the battery died completely and I had to jump start it. After that it got a little more strange… sometimes I would have to jump start it, sometimes it would start fine, and sometimes it would start, but the car would not have enough electric power to power all the electronics in the car fully. The headlights would be dim, the interior lights would be dim, etc… Oddly enough, I could let the car sit for 30 minutes and it would start normally again.
Before bringing it back to the mechanic I would like to be more informed as to what could possibly be going on. Do I just need a new battery and all will be fine with starting? And the fact the trouble with starting is only coincidental with bringing it to the mechanic? (Note, the battery did die while it was at the mechanic). And what should I make of the transmission problem, do they need to install a different one?
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2 years ago I had the transmission and clutch replaced on my 2002 Echo. it has driven fine since then but three days ago we were on the highway and the clutch suddenly disengaged..I don't know if that's the right terminology but it was as if I had pushed the clutch in (I hadn't) and the engine was just revving but not accelerating...I tried all the gears with the same result...eventually my car slowed to a stop.
A day later I had it towed to the mechanic...when he drove it it was fine, and did not exhibit the problem at all. He checked out the clutch and said it looked fine, and said my description of the problem made it sound as if the clutch had overheated....but he said that usually happens with city driving, not on the highway. So he is stumped..the car seems to be fine now, though I haven't had it out on the highway yet.
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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I got this car recently but had driven it several times before. I had never had trouble before, but now it is a very long process to fill the gas tank (at any station/pump type). There was a thread where someone with a similar problem was asking whether this was related to the cold, but my guess is that I have the same problem as this thread: [URL] ....
...where the car had been overfilled too many times and the overfill sensor was stuck on.
1.) Is the problem indeed with a stuck sensor in the tank?
2.) Is this a do-it-yourself fix? How (specifically, beyond "poke a wire in there")?
3.) I had never heard of this before it happened to me.
If it's not something I can fix, what's a reasonable charge from a mechanic?
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The AC in my 2000 Toyota ECHO died a couple of years ago. With the record heat this year, we finally decided to get it fixed. On the first try, the mechanic thought it just needed some adjustment and recharge, and we wanted to save money, so we went that route. Didn't work--kept blowing the fuse. The mechanic advised that we'd need a new compressor. We obtained a remanufactured compressor and had the mechanic install it. Seemed to work OK at first, but now it works only intermittently, with no apparent rhyme or reason. I'm wondering whether it was a mistake not to replace the condenser and drier as well. (Obviously, we were trying to fix it on the cheap!) If we replace the condenser and drier now (about 3 weeks after replacing the compressor), is that likely to fix the problem?
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When starting the car (2002 Toyota Camry XLE) with 114k miles, I noticed that I can gasoline. I also have a rare intermittent stalling when brake & come to a stop. Earlier post: [URL] ....
What could cause the smell of gasoline when I start my car? Is this something that needs to be fixed or can it be ignored? Would this be something that could cause intermittent stalling when braking? After the stall happens, I'm unable to immediately start the car but it starts normally after 15 minutes. Is this the result of some flooding by the gasoline?
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I have an automatic 2002 Echo. Like 2 or 3 days ago I started hearing a noise when I drive in reverse. Is a mix of friction and vibration and it gets louder the faster I drive, only in reverse. I read that this could be the symptom of a bad engine mount but I haven't been able to pinpoint it.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Echo. Symptoms are, the car drives fine until warmed up. Once warmed up, about 10 min or so, there is surging, an inability to maintain idle, periodic loss of brake assist, all consistent with my p1349 code. This happened about two months after I changed my oil (the old oil was in there for an embarrassingly long time). I ran motor flush and again changed the oil; symptoms persist. I have removed the OCV and OCV screen; both look fairly clean. Here's the question: what checks can be done on the OCV itself before I call a bad OCV and replace it? The service manual was of only marginal quality in explaining any checks.
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We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
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This winter, my little green Echo sprang a noise. I noticed that when I turned on the heater plus fan that it would often (but not always) make a ch, ch, ch, ch, ch, ch sound that would last maybe 3 seconds then fade away, only to be reawakened when I started accelerating after a traffic light. For a while this winter it seemed to happen multiple times in a jaunt about town. (I would usually get a bit nervous, promise myself to have it looked at by my Echo car-diologist, and then turn off the fan for a while.) Just when I was about to take it in, it stopped happening, even with the heat/fan on full. And now it has started happening again. I know peanuts about cars, but my intuition says it's some kind of belt in the fan that's slipping. The car has about 75,000 miles on it....
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While driving, I noticed that when I floor the gas pedal to go faster, the engine revs up and takes about a second or 2 until the car accelerates. i also noticed that if i let go of the gas pedal while the engine revs then the car doesn't go any faster, it just revs then goes back to normal. Whats going on?
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My 2004 Accent GLS has stalled intermittently for me and my daughter several times. However, the mechanics cannot replicate the problem and it is not revealing any codes when analyzed. Additional details would include the fact that the stalling incidents have occurred while sitting in slow traffic or when slowing when approaching an intersection. After it stalls, 3 of the 4 times it started again within 10 minutes.
This last time, it took several hours before we were able to restart it. There is no fuel smell when restarting. The check engine light is not on. The problem actually began as a "failure to start" problem, which I thought could have been a faulty battery as, even though the engine was turning over and I didn't really suspect the battery, it would start when jumped. The problem then moved to a stalling problem.
So far, I've replaced a battery (probably a waste), the mechanic found some frayed wires coming from the ignition which he fixed and I'm now having them replace the crank sensor. Does replacing this sensor, though no code is apparent, on the right track? Should I be focused elsewhere? Is there a common 2004 Accent problem? It's my daughter's first car and only has 67,000 miles on it, so I'm in no hurry to get a new car!
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I just got a 2000 toyota echo from my dad and it is having a strange problem when i turn on the windshield wipers the front two lights for like the parking lights come on and i have replace the wiper motor and it still does it and I also checked my ground wires good this be a pitched wire or the switch going bad ...
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I have a 2000 toyota echo that idles great but starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust when I press the gas in park. When I put the car into drive or reverse the idle sounds like it wants to die and sometimes dies unless I press the gas. When I drive it the car gets to about 10mph and starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust. So far I've removed the coils one at a time while car running and noticed a difference. I've removed each of the injector wires while running and noticed a difference. replaced plugs and replaced the pcv valve replaced fuel filter and ran car with external fuel pump. I'm at a loss at what direction to go next. this all started around the time my alternator died and I replaced it.
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The front end of my Toyota Echo has been squealing but only when it's either in drive or in 2nd gear and only when the brake pedal is pressed, once I release the brake pedal it only squeals for a few seconds then once the car moves faster than 5 miles an hour it goes away.. I completely replaced the suspension late last year. I just replaced the belt a few minutes ago and it still does this. I noticed that when the car is off and in park, when I shake the car forward and backward I hear a slight squeal coming from the front. I think it might be the engine mounts and or the transmission mount. What could it be?
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