My daughter has a 2000 (or 2001) Toyota Echo. It has 160,000 miles. The transmission is dead. On the other hand, the engine is in great shape. The mechanic in Georgia has given her a price of $2800. I'm trying to contact them to find out exactly what is going on. Her question: assuming is can be repaired, should she sink the money into it? She asked my opinion, but I'm not a car person by any means.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Echo has a strange problem. At 60 mph (+/- 5 mph) the temperature light starts flashing. If i slow down it stops. Coolant level is fine. Car doesn't seem to be overheating. Radiator fan is working. With radiator cap removed coolant is not moving when the car is cold, but heats up and circulates as the car gets to temperature .I have heat in the cabin.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2000 Toyota Echo and am having a recurring problem. I have had no luck with the dealership or other mechanic’s. We don’t drive it a whole lot maybe once or twice a week, we usually take my truck. I continually find water standing on top of the engine where the coils and plugs are (it is water not coolant) and the water finds its way into #1 cylinder. I have replaced the gasket on the engine compartment, checked the drain hose from the ac, I even put a little gasket material on the metal cover that covers the top where the coils are. Where the water is coming from and how do I stop it before I buy new coils and plugs?
View 1 RepliesMy beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears.
It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
View 4 RepliesI got this car recently but had driven it several times before. I had never had trouble before, but now it is a very long process to fill the gas tank (at any station/pump type). There was a thread where someone with a similar problem was asking whether this was related to the cold, but my guess is that I have the same problem as this thread: [URL] ....
...where the car had been overfilled too many times and the overfill sensor was stuck on.
1.) Is the problem indeed with a stuck sensor in the tank?
2.) Is this a do-it-yourself fix? How (specifically, beyond "poke a wire in there")?
3.) I had never heard of this before it happened to me.
If it's not something I can fix, what's a reasonable charge from a mechanic?
The AC in my 2000 Toyota ECHO died a couple of years ago. With the record heat this year, we finally decided to get it fixed. On the first try, the mechanic thought it just needed some adjustment and recharge, and we wanted to save money, so we went that route. Didn't work--kept blowing the fuse. The mechanic advised that we'd need a new compressor. We obtained a remanufactured compressor and had the mechanic install it. Seemed to work OK at first, but now it works only intermittently, with no apparent rhyme or reason. I'm wondering whether it was a mistake not to replace the condenser and drier as well. (Obviously, we were trying to fix it on the cheap!) If we replace the condenser and drier now (about 3 weeks after replacing the compressor), is that likely to fix the problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Toyota Echo. Symptoms are, the car drives fine until warmed up. Once warmed up, about 10 min or so, there is surging, an inability to maintain idle, periodic loss of brake assist, all consistent with my p1349 code. This happened about two months after I changed my oil (the old oil was in there for an embarrassingly long time). I ran motor flush and again changed the oil; symptoms persist. I have removed the OCV and OCV screen; both look fairly clean. Here's the question: what checks can be done on the OCV itself before I call a bad OCV and replace it? The service manual was of only marginal quality in explaining any checks.
View 2 RepliesWe have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
View 5 RepliesThis winter, my little green Echo sprang a noise. I noticed that when I turned on the heater plus fan that it would often (but not always) make a ch, ch, ch, ch, ch, ch sound that would last maybe 3 seconds then fade away, only to be reawakened when I started accelerating after a traffic light. For a while this winter it seemed to happen multiple times in a jaunt about town. (I would usually get a bit nervous, promise myself to have it looked at by my Echo car-diologist, and then turn off the fan for a while.) Just when I was about to take it in, it stopped happening, even with the heat/fan on full. And now it has started happening again. I know peanuts about cars, but my intuition says it's some kind of belt in the fan that's slipping. The car has about 75,000 miles on it....
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
View 8 RepliesWhile driving, I noticed that when I floor the gas pedal to go faster, the engine revs up and takes about a second or 2 until the car accelerates. i also noticed that if i let go of the gas pedal while the engine revs then the car doesn't go any faster, it just revs then goes back to normal. Whats going on?
View 3 RepliesI just got a 2000 toyota echo from my dad and it is having a strange problem when i turn on the windshield wipers the front two lights for like the parking lights come on and i have replace the wiper motor and it still does it and I also checked my ground wires good this be a pitched wire or the switch going bad ...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 toyota echo that idles great but starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust when I press the gas in park. When I put the car into drive or reverse the idle sounds like it wants to die and sometimes dies unless I press the gas. When I drive it the car gets to about 10mph and starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust. So far I've removed the coils one at a time while car running and noticed a difference. I've removed each of the injector wires while running and noticed a difference. replaced plugs and replaced the pcv valve replaced fuel filter and ran car with external fuel pump. I'm at a loss at what direction to go next. this all started around the time my alternator died and I replaced it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
My 2000 Toyota Tacoma 5 speed sometimes makes a squeaking noise when I let off the accelerator, most noticeably at speeds of between 25-35mph. If I press on the accelerator, the squeaking stops...it seems like it has to be related to the transmission. I was told it may be the U joint...
View 1 Replies2001Toyota Echo 1.5 Liter Automatic 213K miles
My car will start fine but when I start driving it will periodically sputter, particularly when I push on the pedal. If this was my old car I would immediately change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. But it has electronic ignition so has no wires, cap and rotor. I just changed the plugs a year ago, less than 10k miles ago, so I doubt if it is that.
So, moving to the fuel system I thought I would change the filter, but the filter is integrated into the pump which is in the tank, and it like 125$. And it seems like to me that it is unlikely for that electronic pump and filter to need to be replaced hardly ever. I could be wrong. So, what else can I test? There are no codes, so I doubt if it would be mass airflow sensor or something in the air intake. Could it be a leak in the air intake?
My 2000 4Runner will start slipping just after acceleration from a stop only after having driven it for about 5 minutes. I really don't think it's anything major because I've always been nice to the transmission and don't drive like a wild child.
View 11 RepliesMy Echo screeches when the AC is on. If I hit the gas, the sound will go away. Also, sometimes when I'm slowing down the screech starts with the AC on. Occasionally, the sound goes away after I've driven about 20 - 30 miles; it appears that the car at idle then is idleing a little higher. And, lastly, on very rare occasions, the screech will start when the AC is off and I turn a corner.
View 6 RepliesI have a Toyota 2001 Echo and after about 5 min of driving, it starts to stutter when I step on the gas and shake back/forth. It gets worse going up hills. Once it starts, it continues at any speed and doesn't have the normal power but doesn't die. Stepping on the gas harder doesn't increase the RPMs like it should. Thinking it might be the spark plugs, I removed the cap on one plug and found the well with about 2 cm of clear, yellow oil. Is this bad? if so, how bad?
View 6 Replies