Toyota - Pickup :: 1991 - Starts But Dies After A Second
Jan 18, 2011
'91 Toyota 2wd Pickup, 22R-E Engine. 1 yr. ago out of the blue it would start and idle, but if I give it any gas it would die. Shop had trouble figuring it out, then replaced Mass Airflow Sensor; problem re-occurred after once after this repair, but could not be reproduced at shop. 1 yr. later, driving along and engine quits without any warning. Very hard to start, but restarts once, drives about one more block, dies. Unable to restart; engine will crank and catch, but after about 1 second dies. Tried unplugging Mass Airflow Sensor; no change. Left sitting overnight, next morning it starts right up. Problem seems similar to a year ago, though this time it wouldn't start and idle, it would just start and immediately die. In every instance it was rainy/slushy and cold.
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I have a 91 Toyota pickup. Few weeks ago setting in drive through truck quit when I turned on a/c. This happened coup,e times then next time I drove it ran fine. Then it stopped two days in row after driving 20 min. Truck would crank but shut down immediately. Waited few minutes and cranked and drove home no problems. Now truck will only run few min. Before stopping and if I turn on fan or lights the truck stops. Swapped battery from another vehicle but did not fix. Alternator seems to be charging fine, checked with meter output 14.5 volts charging. Checked for codes and no codes.
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I was driving yesterday and my Toyota pickup started losing power. If I let off the gas at a stop it would rapidly die. I managed to get it home but had to floor it just to get it going in 1st and 2nd gear, and if it was in neutral it would die without giving it a lot of gas. The only way it will start is if I give it a lot of gas while turning the ignition, and have to keep the RPM's up to keep it running. Looked under the hood while it was running and when I let off the throttle the entire motor would shake violently. Cant tell if it's just not getting fuel correctly or if it blew a head gasket maybe. Seems like it might only be firing on 2 or 3 cylinders.
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I have a 1991 V6 automatic Toyota pickup. The transmission has ~230,000 miles, but the engine has been rebuilt and probably has less than 5,000 miles on it. I am having overheating issues in both departments.
Engine overheating: This has started fairly recently. My truck began overheating at idle (usually at longer traffic lights) and would cool down again once I began driving. My coolant was low, I took it to a shop, and they fixed a small leak. Fast forward a few weeks and it happened again, and this time when I turned on my heat full blast to take heat off the engine it blew cool air until I started driving. Took it back, they found no more leaks, and couldn't duplicate the overheating symptoms. They also said the fan and thermostat seemed to be working fine. It seems to happen sporadically, regardless of coolant levels.
Transmission overheating: Firstly, my truck tends to delay/hard shift when I first start it in the morning. Once the engine warms up it goes away for the most part. I took it on a 100 mile trip camping on a fairly curvy/hilly forest highway and the A/T Oil Temp light came on. This has happened before when I took it on forest roads, even after a recent ATF flush. Needless to say I had to stop a few times to cool it off. It felt like the transmission was working too hard at a flat 60MPH (2,500-2,800RPMs). A couple times the RPMs were pulsing like it was switching gears back and forth. The next day driving in town everything was back to working order.
I'm not sure if these two things are connected... but they never happen at the same time. I'm taking it to a transmission shop but I want to make sure they don't try to rip me off unless absolutely necessary.
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My son's 1991 Honda Accord was running real rough. The temperature gauge did not budge from cold. I changed out the thermostat. When I tried to start it it started great then coughed and shuddered and then died. It keeps starting and then dying. I took off the IAC and flushed it with mass air flow cleaner. The screen over one of the ports was all crudded up. It cleaned up OK. However then I put it back it improved for a minute and then died again. I have checked for vacuum leaks but found none.
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1999 4-runner 6-cylinder. starts and then immediately dies.
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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2009 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. Our car got flooded last week. Water only got inside to the floor mats and we vacuumed it out. Now the car wont start. It starts and then dies right away. Only when I remove the key from ignition and restart it comes on and goes off again. I was thinking about changing out the ignition module with key. Checked all fuses and they are OK.
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My 1990 Toyota 4runner won't stay running after I changed the air filter. Starts up for couple sec then dies. It ran the same morning then had problem after changing filter.
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I have a 91 Nissan pick up that is just making a clicking noise upon trying to start it. I replaced the battery. The inside light works, radio works, dash clock works, but still just clicking upon trying to start. Is there a clutch safety switch that could cause this, or starter, or ???
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Our 18 yr old grandson has a 1998 Dodge Ram pickup that dies when he turns. Was told that
1) either the wiring harness to the oil pressure sensor is rubbing OR
2) the oil pressure sensor needs to be replaced -
QUESTION: Where is this located? Is it hard / expensive to replace?
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1991 suburban randomly dies while driving..... I will only have headlights and interior lights.... no other power .....wait 5-10 minutes fires right up.
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Basically it dies when thrown into drive. Idle is great, the reverse is great, neutral is great, drive is crappy.
If I let it sit for an hour or so, it will stay in drive without stalling, not for long though.
My MAP sensor connector is messed up I already know that but could it be causing my issue?
Also, I put antifreeze into my engine coolant reserve about 2 weeks ago, yesterday I checked it and it was just about empty. Any reason for that? I haven't noticed any leaks either.
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I've offered to do a basic compression check on a 22R engine, '85 Toyota pickup, which is apparently low on power, won't go above 50 mph. Yes it could be a multitude of things. Chances are it's several of them.
I have not yet heard it run. I'll consider myself lucky if I hear the uneven cadence of running on three cylinders.
My job Tuesday is to screen it for the most obvious things like a clogged air intake or air filter, choke stuck closed, worn spark plugs, etc, and do a simple compression test. I will again try to persuade the owner to take it to the skilled mechanic I've recommended, which he has resisted thus far, even though he's about to set off on a long trip through desolate terrain.
I already suspect low compression based on what the owner has implied, but also wondering about ignition timing and vacuum advance. This is a carbureted engine, so does that mean that it also has a distributor and needs to have the timing set? I have a timing light, but only vaguely remember the procedure...disconnect vacuum line from carb and plug hose leading to distributor? Any marks on the harmonic balancer to align?
Evidently it has a bogus exhaust system too - no cat - making me wonder if there's a problem there. I'm not going to get too deep into this, but if I can at least spot the problem I want to be able to convince the owner that there's a clear explanation, so he'll get it resolved.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
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My 1992 Toyota pickup (138,000 mi) started popping out of first gear today. How big of a problem is this and what needs to be done??
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I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 280k miles on it.
Question: what would be reasons the engine dies when in operation? I had not noticed anything wrong with the car other than I noticed it may take the automatic transmission a little longer time to shift gears.
While I was on the road, i felt something happening under the hood and noticed the car was losing power. the battery and oil level lights went on and needed to pull the car to the side of the road for obvious reason!
The car was towed back to my house. During the ride back the guy who was towing the car said that the engine turned over when he turned on the ignition.
I did the same thing when I got home and the car started up just fine. Nothing else noticed. The oil level was at normal level. I drove the car a couple times around the block.
The engine is due for a tune up and there sometimes is some vibration. This car has been very reliable. But I obviously can not have situation where the engine dies when on the road!
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I have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
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I recently had a new engine and radiator installed in my 1993 toyota pickup. I checked the coolant and oil every day since the install, then drove it 250 miles or so without checking the coolant, and found that all the coolant was gone from the reserve tank, and there was a sludge at the bottom. I don't see any leaks, and the thermometer indicator was normal.
I don't understand where the coolant could have gone, given that it's a totally new motor and new radiator, new hoses. I'm worried about the competence of my mechanic, not noticing a dirty coolant reservoir and maybe messing something else up.
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I have 2009 tacoma pickup w/10k After starting fine and driving a few mins. and turning off it will not restart for aleast 10=15 mins. All the instr. lights come on like normal.....but it will not crank nothing? no starter noise ...nothing I contacted my dealer The service guy said (never heard that before)....
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When adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
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