Toyota - Rav4 :: 2010 - Driver Seat Badly Frayed Where You Sit?
Nov 8, 2011
I purchased a 2010 Toyota Rav4 January 2010. In august, I noticed that the driver seat was badly frayed where you sit. Dealer replaced it. It is now November 2011 and the problem is back. The Rav4 has 29,000 miles. I am not particularly heavy nor do I carry razor blades in my back pocket. In fact, I can't even drive long distances with my wallet in my back pocket. I took the car in and this time the dealer said Toyota would not warranty the seat.
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Driver's side won't lock automatically when I start the car. Also have to push inside button twice to lock it. Remote won't lock or unlock that door.
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The window is running very slow and almost doesn't make it to close. Is there any way I can extend the life of this window?
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My 2010 RAV4 is not on the recall VIN number list but it has been surging occasionally since I got it in May. Dlr says No report of that. 2 days ago as I was braking from 20 mph to stop, the engine suddenly reved up fast and roared, I had to stand on the brake, fought it hard, acceleration ceased and I avoided rearending car ahead. Dlr & Toyota in a quandary, can't find problem, they still have vehicle, I have loaner. I'm afraid to drive it.
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I have a 2010 Toyota RAV4. It is a great car overall but I have a persistent problem with a vibration from the rear of the car. It felt like I was running over tiny speed bumps at 35 to 50 mph. Toyota service looked at the car three times and told me there was no vibration and I should seek psychological counseling. My therapist told me that I did, in fact, suffer from numerous psychoses but that didn't mean there wasn't a vibration in my car.
So I took it in a fourth time and a mechanic determined that there was a vibration that occurred at 40 to 45 miles per hour on a slight incline during moderate acceleration. He believed that it was caused by the Sprag Clutch. He said it wasn't anything to be concerned about and I should ignore it.
The really bad news is that while the vibration has been there for 15,000 miles, I didn't take it in until 60,200 miles and even if they did recommend repairing it, I would have to pay for the transmission work as it is now out of warranty. My concern is that the problem will get worse and the transmission will eventually fall apart.
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Friday I went to pick my daughter up from the school. Turned 2010 Rav4 off while waiting on her and then attempted to turn back on. I have a smart key, so it is just a matter of pushing the button, but nothing. Band teacher attempted jump starting it with no results. Next day my husband purchased a new battery from AutoZone and we installed it. Have lights, etc. now but it still won't start. tried putting the key up to the on off switch to get it to start, still nothing. It doesn't even sound like the car is even attempting to turn over.
There are multiple lights on in the dash, the check engine light, oil pressure light, electric power steering light, and the automatic transmission fluid temp light. I just had my car into the dealer to have the oil changed, tires, rotated, and the 25 pt. inspection done on it. Upon raising my hood the other night, I noticed that the reservoir for the radiator was empty. It should have been full, as I just had it into the dealership, so where did it go. Should I add coolant to it. Is there something that needs to be done after changing the battery?
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Just bought a 2010 Toyota Rav4 about 2 weeks ago. It rained the other day and the brakes made a grinding noise the first time I braked after starting the car but didn't make it after that. Did it again the same day, still raining, but only the first time I braked after starting the car. I have a 30 day guarantee on the vehicle and need to know quickly if the brakes are bad or not.
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I have a 2010 Toyota RAV4. In February 2014 at 34,600 miles when the car was 46 months old I had the EVAP (charcoal) canister and filter replaced for $1,300. Error codes were P043, P0401 and P0402. Recently I had the following check engine error codes appear (P043E & F, P2401, P2402 & P2419) and was told by my mechanic that the car basically had the same problem. I am now at about 50,000 miles. I don't believe this type of problem is very common; also I think that the EVAP should continue functioning for a lot longer than ~4 years and now ~1.5 years. How likely is it that I got a "bad" original EVAP charcoal canister & filter and then the replacement was also "bad"? Might there be something else that is defective that is causing the EVAP canister to go bad? I don't generally top off the gas tank when filling up.
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I purchased a 2011 Toyota Camry LE (2.5L I-4, Automatic) about a month ago (August 2010 in Houston, TX.) Right from the day one, I noticed numerous intolerable rattles. The most prominent ones are, a clicking noise from steering wheel, especially when turning in a parking lot with vehicle not in motion, and on and off rattling from driver and passenger seat belt columns in the B pillar. Mechanically the car is average (good engine, uncertain transmission) but interior fit and finish is plain disaster.
I took the car twice to the dealer. While they refused to notice any noise from the seat belt columns, they did acknowledge the ticking noise every time the steering wheel is turned on either side. Initially they tried to identify it as the turn signal correction mechanism noise, which turns the turn signal off automatically after making a turn. I insisted for the shop foreman to take a look at it. After further inspection they said it wasn't the turn signal correction mechanism but some "normal harmless rattling" from the steering column . Is there any other Camry owner with similar problems??
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In January we bought a 2010 RX 450H with less than 12,000 miles. But 2 months ago noticed a yellowing discoloring on the drivers leather in a few spots. It is the light gray leather. Also some flaking. I had a similar flaking with our 07 ES350. The dealer had their detailer clean the RX drivers leather but now notice it returning and several areas of the coloring flaking off. I've heard they treat any seat imperfections to prep for CPO sale. In fact it looked new when bought. The feel of the drivers leather is also different than all the other seats.
The car still has less than 20,000 miles. This is ridiculous.
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I have a '10 IV and my drivers seat clicks in the middle of my back. It seems that it may be the top of the lumbar cushion going bad.
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I have had my Elantra Limited 2012 for about a month. Just recently I heard a rattle that appeared to be coming from the rear of the vehicle, but after moving my head around I have since been able to isolate it to the sunroof right about the driver's head. I can reach up there an pull down on a metal hinge, and the rattling stops. Drives me crazy listening to a rattle right above my head.
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2010 Passat.....the driver seat controller started acting up today...it will not raise or lower the seat any longer ....front to back works.....seat angle works.....front of the seat cushion still works...but the seat height no longer adjusts.
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My car vibrates badly when I stop for a light. It is fine when I drive. Already replaced all of the engine mounts.
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The driver and front pax headrest won't stay up on my '11 GX. They have the RSES installed. I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but it seems odd that both headrests would experience the same problem. When I raise them, they just fall right down to the lowest position with a thunk.
If I wiggle the passenger one, sometimes it will stay up. It looks like there are a couple of plastic bushings that aren't seated properly, but when I push them down, they just ride up again when I raise the headrest.
I'll take it to the dealer next week, as this should be covered under warranty, but I'd like to know if this is a known issue and if there is anything I can do to prevent it from happening again.
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I'm taking a long road trip with my '10 LS. I'd like to pack items on the floor behind the driver's seat but am certain that the "auto away" function that moves the seat all the way back when you turn off the car will crush my items. I checked my manual and my Carista app but nothing about disabling this feature. How to do this?
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I just got my 2013 a few months ago and this just started. I'm a little heavier than most people (230lbs), but I don't think that is the problem.
Sometimes when I make a turn (not hitting a bump) or go over a bump, I hear a clicking sound from underneath my seat (towards the rear)... Tried adjusting the seat and messing around with a few settings, but the "clicking" sound persists....?
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Prius four with heated leather seats noticed especially on the drivers side seat bottom on the side bolster just as you slide in not the center section. I noticed it when new, it looks like a maybe wire between the leather and seat foam.
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I've had 2013 Elantra for a month. Love it, but a week ago, the driver's seat started squeaking when stopping, accelerating, and going around curves. Crazy making! I took the car in today. Svc mgr said its a weight issue. The two driver/owners weigh 150 and 160 lbs! Exactly, he said. Apparently, we do not weigh enough to prevent squeak. The only fix would be to replace the seat and there's no guarantee it would work. Also must be approved by regional svc mgr so have to go back in a.m. Told them similar issues posted online (Genesis and Sonata) and was easily resolved lubricant issue. They could at least try what appears to work. No going.
Have other Elantra owners experienced this squeaking? If Hyundai knows this is a recurring issue with their products, at what point do they make engineering changes to resolve the issue? Don't want to, but I am rapidly losing my love for the car as it sounds like a cheap tin can when it squeaks.
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my 88 camry will start and idle fine however whenever you attempt to accelerate the vechicle the car trys to stall and hesitate badly and will not move. i have changed the fuel filter the spark plugs and plug wires i cannot figure it out. also this started out of nowere the car was driving i had been driving for about ten miles stopped at a red light and that is when the car started doing this.
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'13 model. I checked the vehicle customization to have the setting on but I noticed that the driver seat has stop moving assisting easy exit feature. The steering wheel is tilting however. Should I check with the dealer?
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