I have a 2016 Touareg Lux model with just 600 miles. On multiple occasions, when accelerating out of a slow rolling stop, the car bogs down and almost dies.....until I let off the pedal and gradually ease back on it. I was nearly rear ended recently as a result of the acceleration hesitation. It's almost as if the engine shuts down and is starved of fuel.
View 1 Repliesi recently got a 86 f250 351w ho. My problem is when i go from a stop or even slow for a turn then reaccelerate it bogs down and i have to pump the pedal to keep is going. My first thought was the accelerator pump but now I'm thinking power valve? I believe this carb is a Holley 4180?
View 3 RepliesI have a '99 passat 1.8t Tiptronic. 106,000 miles. Recently I've been getting a bad hesitation when accelerating from a stop. At half throttle the car kinda bogs down and hesitates then as the rpms get higher it seems to clear out and accelerate smoother. At the same time the car doesn't have the same sack it used to. I checked he plugs, found them very fouled. Replaced them and the problem got a little better, but definitely still there. There has to be a reason the plugs fouled. There is no CEL so I don't really know what to check first.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1984 VW Rabbit, 4 cyl., 5 spd, that chokes off when I slow down to stop....
View 2 RepliesIt's not that it won't start, but it accelerates like crap when it gets "cold" out. What do I mean by "cold"? Apparently 60F or less. During May and June my van worked great. Now, just with a bit of nip in the air, she doesn't drive the same.
Symptoms:- When in Drive, the van lurches while idling.- Accelerating from a stop is VERY slow and risks stalling every so often. I could literally floor the accelerator and she'll go a couple MPH.- Between 1 and 45MPH the van will occasionally buck. Meaning the acceleration will either dip or spike so the drive isn't "smooth".- If it's real cold, when accelerating from a stop (or rolling stop) something goes "pop", almost like a mini-backfire.
Van is a Dodge Ram Van B250 1988. V8
During May and June she drove like a dream (well, as much as a 1988 Van that probably needs some extra care). I missed the smooth driving. And come Winter I know I'm it's going to take the van forever to get up to 50MPH on the highway.
My family has had this car for a long time. It worked fine for years but in the past year it has had some problems when starting. Sometimes the car starts fine, sometimes it won't start until you re-try a few times, sometimes it won't start and you can try over and over and it never does. When it doesn't start, it doesn't do anything at all, no sound or anything. The battery is not dead, the car has more than half a tank of gas. Recently, the car started fine, but after driving it for a while, we stopped at a stop light.
When we tried to accelerate after the stop, the car died, during the acceleration and a left turn. We got the car going again after trying a few times, but later that same trip, the car died again when accelerating, but this time it was from a slow speed, not a stop and it was while we were driving straight. The car is well taken care of (oil changes, check the oil, do not let it get to under a quarter of a tank, change transmission filter & oil, air filter, brakes, etc.) The timing chain is permanent, stainless steel. We do not drive very much but we are afraid to now that we don't know if it will die while we are driving.
I recall some folks (with certain VIN#s) getting a TSP for correcting the lag when accelerating from a dead stop. I asked my dealer about it during routine service several months ago, but no fix at that time.
View 1 RepliesAre the mounts on the engine not tight enough? It feels rather strange. My dad's Ford Explorer doesn't do that. I feel like I'm driving a car with a manual transmission that needs to have dogbone bushings and mounts upgraded. How do I bring this to dealership's attention without appear like a complete loony? They like to give the "Could not duplicate" response when there is an obvious symptom.
View 10 RepliesLately I have been driving in the Sport Mode more often. I have noticed that when accelerating from a stop it revs to just below the redline before shifitng, is this normal?
I also notice that when slowing down or coming to a stop, it has a "hurky jurky" feel. As if it was downshifiting way to early. is this normal?
I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
1993 Golf GL III, automatic: Engine size: 2.0 Date on door 5/1993
I have an intermittent problem, in the morning my car will start fine, idle fine and drive well for about six blocks, but then it suddenly bogs down and goes sluggish like it is not getting gas or not firing correctly. It has not stalled completely, it just bogs down and giving it gas does not do much. I can barely coax the car to my destination about a mile away.
The weird part: A few hours later when I leave this location my car runs fine, starts fine, drives fine and I have no problems the rest of the day. Thus, I only have this problem in the morning, otherwise the car runs great.
Question: Could there be a sensor that is reading incorrectly in the morning, but is fine after it warms up? Perhaps the sensor is messing up the air/gas mixture.
NOTE: My check engine light is on, but I have not figured out how to pull the codes. In the middle console, above the ash tray behind two unused button panels, I have two diagnostic connectors, one black and one white (see photo). I think they may be 2x2 connectors, perhaps OBD1, but I am not sure.
* I have heard a jumper cable can be used to get the codes to blink, but I have not found any documentation to confirm that for this year and model.
* I am also not sure if an OBD2 scanner could read this codes if I use an 16 pin adapter.
Pull codes, either using a jumper or scanner, My local auto parts stores will not pull the codes.
2002 F-150 4.2L. About a year ago, it threw the P0171 and 0174 codes up. After replacing all the simple stuff, I bit the bullet and replaced the lower intake gasket as well as the upper intake gaskets. Buttoned it all up, reset the codes and we were back in business. No issues, truck ran good. About 6-8 months later, the check engine light came back on, I check it and it was that pesky set of codes again, 0171 and 0174.
It still ran fine, but the codes were there, so I just drove it for a while (it's a company truck that doesn't get driven that much).
A couple of weeks ago while driving it, it acted very sluggish. You could mash the accelerator and it would just very slowly run up the speed. It never hesitated or missed, it just got very very sluggish. Checked the codes, no additional codes.
Then it began to stumble when you mashed the gas.
I put new plugs (old one's looked great, other than a huge gap), new wires, new coil pack and started it. Pushed the gas pedal, it just dies.
I look for obvious vacuum leaks and replace a couple of elbows for the PCV and it seems to run a little better. Enough so that I can drive it, but still not running right.
I ordered all the intake gaskets and new isolator bolts and spend Saturday pulling that apart. I didn't do the lower intake because the upper intake gaskets looked so good, I just don't believe this is a intake gasket problem. None the less, I installed the new gaskets on the plenum and upper intake, new isolator bolts, replaced a couple pieces of vacuum hose that looked cracked, started it back up, it ran as smooth as silk.
Convinced I had it fixed, I went for a test drive. Idling, it is as smooth as you could ask for. Pull up to a stop sign, wait, step on the gas and it chokes. Just stumbles and you can hear it almost backfiring and pushing air back through the system.
I've put new PCV, new EGR, new vacuum lines in several places, new upper intake gaskets, new plenum gaskets, new isolator bolts, and even new o-rings on the injectors, and I'm still getting the 0171 and 0174 codes.
With the diagnostics on, I can see voltage varying on all O2 sensors, so I assume they are working (none of them are reading 0 volts). It doesn't throw any other code up, other than the 0171 and 0174.
At this point I feel like I'm replaced every single thing ever mentioned in any 0171 and 0174 thread on the internet. Where to go next? 1 more point, if you very slowly push the gas, it runs fine, but any pressure on it, it bogs down and just stumbles.
I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
View 7 RepliesMy 2007 Prius, 181189 miles, made a crunching sound when I left the freeway this am while stopping. No shaking, vibration or noises while going at speed.
When first accelerating I hear a crunch then clicking. This happened at each stop until I parked. Sounds fine when going in reverse.
I am at work and am wondering if I need a tow truck or try to drive 75 miles home tonight?
I have a Check engine light on. I was driving up to go skiing and i was going up a hill, so i downshifted to 4th and the engine bogs down and the check engine light comes on, and it wont let me accelerate beyond 3000 RPM. I pull off at the next exit and turn the car off and go skiing(I was already there, I drove all the way and I figured I might as well ski). I come back after a few hours and head home, Im taking it easey but i notice that it seems to drive normal now, but the CEL is still on. What the problem could be? I have already had both turbos replaced and the last month the ecu was reprogrammed for throwing up faulty codes. But this time there may be something wrong with the engine.
View 10 RepliesMy wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
I have an 01 Passat (old body style) and I know that there is a function on the door that if you use the key to unlock the car you can roll down all the windows that way. The key lock on my door is broken though and has been since I go the car 2 years ago.
For some reason all the sudden now ever time I open my door all the windows roll down. I'm not sure how to stop it or turn off the system. Luckily it hasn't happened in the rain, yet, but I would like to fix it before that happens.
I bought my 2008 last year at 23,000 miles. They brake pedal will go pretty low to the floor and the brake pads do not bite good. Now at 40,000 miles is doing the same thing. I was in downtown a couple of times and I had to slam on the brakes as traffic is crazy. It would not stop and keep on rolling. It was really scary. I am pretty sure it has the original brake pads. I can change the pads but I have a feeling that there is air in the lines. The brake fluid in the reservoir has never dropped. I believe it has ABS. Anything special on 2008 model with ABS ? I will try to bleed it and also changed the pads. My question is, is it possible to have air in the lines at 23,000 miles ?
View 7 RepliesI've been driving manual for like 20+ years and the SFS is my first automatic. If the 2.0T would have been available in the trim I wanted I would have take the manual.
Anyways ; since I like to come to a nice smooth stop I switch to neutral gear (N) from drive (D) like 10-20 meters before a traffic light. When driving in the city I do that like 1 time per minute at least.
1. is this bad for the transmission ?
2. is keeping the transmission in D while stopping causing more wear on the transmission (since the car wants to go forward but the breaks won't let that happen) ?
My 4x4 only locks in when i lock it in and then go drive around, and i know its locked in when it gets hard to turn on the road. So i stop and play with it in 4x4 to see if it will go into 4 hi and it does but then after about 5-10 minutes it disengages again. I've checked the top portion of my vacuum lines, replaced my actuator on the front diff and I've made shore that my selonoids are working, and they are. I'm lost.
View 4 RepliesI have a new problem that I only discovered a few days ago. As I come to a stop at a traffic light, turning out of somewhere or whatever if I give the car a little more gas than normal not that I punch it or anything from a stop the car bogs down and bangs a little rough like I was rear ended. The car is in drive when it happens. Its just fine any other time. I was told it could be as simple as a bad tps or as bad as a defective torque converter or tranny. Its a 2005 gls hatchback with the 1.8L. also, the engine has been running a little rough recently too if that could have anything to do with it. No warning lights are on either.
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