1999 Chevy Blazer With Inop Gauges And Won't Shut Down
Feb 4, 2013
1999 Chevy Blazer, 4.3L V6, 173,447 miles
Working on his 1999 Blazer that he just bought, it has an electrical problem.....the gauges are inop, and the engine wont shut down and the 4X4 wont engage unless the headlight switch is turned on and in some instances the high beams must be on. We have replaced the high beam multi switch, the headlight switch and the ignition module. We suspect that it might be a bad ground or the interior light module.
We just replaced the engine the other day but the problem existed prior to the motor swap.
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I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
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The entire cooling system has been overhauled; including heater core replaced 3 times, new radiator, new theromostat 2 times, new water pump, new radiator hose. Truck continues to overheat into the red quickly with or without a/c on.
1996 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 4.3 liter (1 owner).
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I have an 2005 F350 4x4, 6.0 with 294000 miles. My gauges recently started to shut down on there own and then recover. at any speed with no effect on the engine. When I park and shut the system down, they all come back on again at start-up. However, they shut down again and then operate at will as I drive. What's causing this?
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When I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
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Okay I am having a problem with my A/C in my Blazer I've had my compressor replaced finally got all of my leaks fixed and replaced all the visible vacuum hoses and still without by passing my heater core I have no Air Conditioning. It just keeps blowing out hot air. Why my Air Conditioner is working. I really like my blazer but after having invested a little over 600.00 into just getting the A/C up and going with no luck is just getting frustrating. I am considering selling it and getting a truck. I would like to keep it if I can get the A/C up and going but I don't want to have to invest a whole lot more money into it.
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96 chevy blazer overheated did compression test number 3 was low on compression. And number 3 misfire.
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My 1992 chevy k1500 blazer full size is having trouble shifting from 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I reset the linkage it did fine for a day and now it's doing the same thing but it almost goes into neutral while shifting into some gears. And seems to lack power, the 92 doesn't have cyanoids and the transmission was redone 2 years ago when I got the truck. Could this have anything to do with the fuel filter? I know the transmission isn't bad. The Rpms are shooting up way too high.
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I have a problem with my 1998 Chevrolet Blazer. It won't go in reverse, but will go into gear going forward. I don't know whats wrong or what the cause is.
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I have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
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I recently moved to a place in the Caribbean that has very steep paved & unpaved roads, lots of potholes. I have a 2002 Chevy blazer, has 4wd, hi & low (not automatic 4wd). What is the best way to drive these roads? Someone told me its ok to leave the truck in 4wd when on "the country" roads even though they are paved but the Chevy manual says not to do this. I have been putting it in second to go down the hills. Still figuring out up hill. I'm not used to driving this terrain and want to learn it right.
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03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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I have a 98 chevy blazer that the dash lights and interment cluster (including odometer) only works at night when u turn on the headlights by the switch. And the truck starts sometimes. I placed a piece of tape over the sensor on the dash for the auto lights( this made the dash, interment, odometer work) but now truck will not start. I've been told its the ignition switch.
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2000 Blazer LT 4wd, 118000 miles
During a severe thunder storm the factory alarm went off. I was unable to shut off the alarm with the key fob. The power door locks did not work either with the door switch or the key fob. I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes.
After I reconnected the battery the door locks worked using the key fob or door switch. I took it for a drive with no further problems. About 10 minutes later the alarm went off again. I could hear the door lock solenoids attempting to lock/unlock the doors and there was a clicking under the dash. I disconnected the battery again, after the battery was reconnected the power door locks were still not working. The truck starts up and runs normal, everything seems to work except for the door lock?
I checked the PW fuse, it was fine. The battery is fully charged at 12.6V. I've disconnected the battery and will have another look at it tomorrow. There was nothing useful in the Owner's Manual and the resync procedure did not work.
Update: Before driving to work this morning, I cleaned the positive and negative terminals. The locks worked and the truck ran normally during the 30 min drive to work. After reading the Owner's manual closely, I discovered the Theft Deterrent System can be disarmed by locking the car with the doors closed. The system is armed by locking the doors with a door open, i.e. pressing the lock switch when exiting the vehicle.
No further problems with the alarm or the door locks whether the Theft Deterrent System is armed or disarmed. Hopefully leaving the battery disconnected overnight was the fix.
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I have 2000 S10 SFI 2.2L 4Cy...It was running fine, and my wife was on her way home from work and it shut off on her going down the road. No sputtering or anything, it just shut off. I got a tester on it, and I'm getting no codes. I asked a couple of people, and several suggested it was the ICM, but no go after replacing. My next thought is the coil packs or even the fuel pump relay considering I don't hear the pump kick on now.
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I've been browsing around and researching the problem where the gauges shut down and the abs among with other lights come on intermittently anywhere from a few seconds to 10-15 minutes because I'm currently having this issue. From what I've found, it is the abs ecu.
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We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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So I picked up my new 2016 LWB loaded 6 passenger Santa Fe yesterday and I'm finding today that NONE of the heated seats are doing anything. The ventilation (fan) works, the heated steering wheel works, but all 4 seats are inoperative. Now, I'm coming from a 2014 Santa Fe Sport with the same heated and ventilated seats that worked fine, and my life has a 2015 Genesis 3.8 AWD and hers all work fine. I've checked the fuses located in the dash and those are fine.
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This 2008 Avalon. auto seat function is inop the normal seat controls work. Can't find any info on line regarding this.
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