7 Series :: Bmw 735il 1988 - Ticking In Valve After Adjustment
Oct 13, 2010
Bmw 735il 1988 : Car has been sitting for 4-years I have done all the maintenance including the Valve adjustment .012 cold. I hear a louder then normal ticking in the valve train seems like its coming from the intake side towards the rear. I double checked all the gaps several times and they are correct. Could this be a carbon build up, plugs were black due to a bad coolant sensor everything tune up related has been replaced. Before the adjustment I started the car for a few minutes and did not hear the ticking, does it need to go for a long drive or am I missing something? Is there a way to narrow with valve is causing this, could it be the oil tube blocked on the rear section? Can I remove the valve cover and observe with out taking an oil bath?
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For those of us who owns 1988 735IL and battery died and doors are locked and tried to lift the passenger door and turn the key 100 times to engage emergency unlock and did not work below solution works good.
FYI the trunk unlocks and opens with the key by just placing the key and turning then push the button
This my friend is ingenius tried it after I've been working to unlock the door with a dead battery for 6 hours even AAA don't have a clue (Slim Jim is discontinued due to side airbag. Lock smith would do the same by turning the key while lever is up position but the lock knob button needs to come up about an inch and a quarter. Good luck with that.
Solution I did
- open the trunk by with the key. Yes the trunk will open
- pry the trunk light and locate positive and negative post.
- remove the electronic connector protector
- removing bulb not necessary
- Jump Start device 300AMP or a 12 Volt power source for cars
- simple wire from an old electronic device
- have to wires for red and black
- Stripped it to expose metal then connect positive and negative to the trunk light connector (pay attention red and black) goes to red and black of the battery source
- set polarity on the jump start 300amp gadget
- it gives enough juice to the system
- then turn the key on the passenger/driver key
- it works
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It's an 88 2.9 and sounds like a little diesel! The fellow I purchased it from said the valves need tightened, I thought perhaps a timing chain, but figured valves would be an easier place to start. Yet, I'm not sure where to begin? Or how tight the valves need to be, are there torque specks?
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I got a 1990 bmw 735il and I'd like to know how to properly switch from automatic to manual on my transmission it has the switch A to M but I don't know if the car has to be turned off or on, cause I don't want to do it the wrong way
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I got a 1988 jeep cherokee limited and the pcv valve keep popping out, When i take it out it shake's so it's not bad what could it be, also my pcv valve is on top of my motor...
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I'm attempting to adjust the TV cable on my 92 gtz V6 3sp auto as it is shifting late...I have found the following instructions (which seem simple enough):
Step 1 Stop engine.
Step 2 TBI equipped models, Remove air cleaner assembly.
Step 3 Push and hold down the metal readjusting tab at the engine end of the cable.
Step 4 While holding the tab down, move the slider until it stops against the fitting.
Step 5 Release adjustment tab.
Step 6 Rotate the throttle lever to the wide-open position, cable will come back and automatically readjust itself.
However, I don't know what I'm doing or better yet, looking at when I am trying to do this..I see the throttle, the cable, can move the throttle to wide open but what I'm not seeing/recognizing on the throttle mechanism is:
1. The metal adjusting tab at the engine end of the cable
2. The slider
3. The fitting the slider is supposed to butt up against
how to properly adjust the cable and have come up blank.
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When adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
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99 Passat 1.8 Turbo 4 cyl. Noticing a ticking in the valve train. Louder @ cold start. Can't hear it on acceleration, just when sitting. Sometimes it won't do it at all. But most recently it's constant. The other morning I cranked on and the CEL came on.
Took it to mechanic, he let it set for while to cool down, restarted and the CEL was off (hasn't come back on), he could hear the ticking, thought maybe the timing belt needs to be replaced or adjusted, the 02 sensor or possibly week lifters?????
July 06' VW did a "desludge" (for free!) and replace all parts having to do w/ oil and filled w/ synthetic. So that's not the problem. My mechanic isn't familiar with VW valve trains, belts, lifters, heads etc. He's done a great job on everything else, but acts like he's really scared to open this can of worms.
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Finally pulled the trigger and traded our 2008 santa fe SE to 2.0T with leather pkg, haven't had time to do proper intro and didn't want this to be my first post... We have less than 1000 miles and engine is ticking quite badly, not always and doesn't go away when engine warms up. Will take it to dealer next week so that they can diagnose it more in detail. And no, it's not GDI system, noise is clearly coming from valve or vct system.
I know it's covered by warranty, but this stinks big time and frustrates like... Not a good start.
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Ok not that last part, but I'm working on grandma's 08 Taurus V6, light blue. The first symptom was the check engine light, flagging P0011 camshaft adv timing bank 1. When I popped the hood there was a bad rattling/ticking noise from the valve covers. Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car. No bubbles from the reservoir and compression check was good.
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I have a 1988 ford ranger and my headlights won't turn on all my fuses are fine but no headlights! All the other lights work fine blinkers, parking, brake ,and tail lights! What do I need to look for????
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My 88 2.9 ranger keeps heating up badly while idling. Was waiting in the drive-thru at Wendy's and it was taking them longer than usual, the temp guage started climbing closer and closer to 'H'.. I revved it up a bit to a fast idle (1500-2000rpm) and it did not work much... figured the gauge was being screwy. But when i finally got my food and started moving the truck was pinging..it really was hot..
But as soon as I got her moving at a steady 40mph, engine cooled back down to normal temp as if nothing ever happened..i put an extra wide two row aluminum radiator from a 4.0 explorer in it, fan clutch is not very old, no coolant leaks that i can see.. can't figure out why it heats up so much so fast at idle. Not enough air or coolant flow?
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Any way to tell if the ECU is faulty? I hooked my analyzer up to my friends 1988 Ford ranger 2.3L and it wouldn't even detect that the ignition switch was on. He was driving it the other day and is shut off on him while he was making a turn and it wouldn't start back up. We have rebuilt the distributor by replacing the pick-up, rotor button and cap, and we had the ignition module tested and found it was good. We have also replaced the coil. When the ignition is turned to the on position, the fuel pump comes on and never cycles off.
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88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
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I have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
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Dad has a 2010 F150 CC SB. it has the 5.4 in it. Ever since day one it has had a noticeable tick in the valve train. But it can only be heard inside the truck when there is no other noise... Open the hood and its not there. Ford dealer told dad that it was normal, and that the firewalls are just not thick enough where it gets really close to the engine and that the sound is transferred to the firewall.
NEXT question... Not always, but sometimes when the truck is started cold, it will puff white smoke.... Every time dad has had it at the dealer they say they cannot ever see it. Curious if any of your trucks have this issue, before I take it back there with again, asking to go start every truck on the parking lot listening for the tick and the smoke...
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I have an 88 ranger with the 2.9l. The headlights work and the markers do to. The brights don't though. and also none of the turn signals work, the brake lights work though but i don't think the reverse do, I can't see them. Do the turn signals and brights share a fuse on there own? How to diagnose it or what it may be?
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I've got a 1988 2wd Ranger with a 2.9l v6. I just recently got it running. It has been setting for awhile. I replaced fuel tank, both pumps, fuel filter, Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, TPS. It ran great for about 100 miles. Then yesterday on my way to work about 4 miles down the road it started to miss/stumble especially at about 55mph while in overdrive. When I got home I pulled the codes and I got KOEO 22 Map sensor signal out of voltage(engine off), 53 TPS signal voltage to high, 95 Thermactor Air System Problem, or Fuel Pump Monitor signal, indicates circuit problem.
KOER I got 21 ECT sensor signal voltage out of range or loss of signal during normal operation or Crank Sensor problem, doesn't have a crank sensor I believe. But I did change the ECT sensor and it still stumbles and seems like it misses. Noticed it is sluggish getting up to speed kinda surges and bogs. Im at a loss it isn't showing any more codes. Checked all plug wire connections and made sure everything was making connection. The only other thing I can think of is that the ignition module on back of distributor is going bad. Not advancing the time correctly.
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My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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Bought my third 88 ranger today, drove it 55 of 60 miles home and it died. It lost power and acted like the coil was going bad. This one is a 2.9 5 speed 4x4. The a/c compressor is gone; but the 365 a/c works okay, or did.
My daughter was following me in her car; by the time we got back with my F150 and a chain, it started and ran until it was a half maile from home then lost power and died again.
Drug it home, put a new coil on and it started and revved up fine. Went to move it a couple of hours later and it will crank with the starter, but not fire.
I am getting 12 volts to the primary side of the coil, is there any way to check the TFI module without taking it off the distributor? (they are so accessable).
Or is there something else that I need to check? I really don't want to just throw money at it, I like to know for sure what is wrong before I buy parts.
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