My Accent is a 2007. It regularly has the check engine light come on. They continually claim it's the fuel cap. When it's colder, even when it's been running it continually stalls when your putting it in reverse. They also claim that's not a problem. It's only got 25K on it. So the fact that it's already have problems is rather annoying.
View 5 RepliesMy mechanic noticed an engine vibration when he was installing my new brake pads and rotors. He noticed the vibration when putting it in reverse. He then checked the engine and mounts. He then asked about the timing belt. I told him the belt was changed at 62,000 miles. The Accent currently has 76,000. He thinks that the belt may have jumped or a counter balancer is not working right. I do not know if the 2007 has a counter balancer. Any diagram of the timing belt, pulleys and counter balance (if it has one). It is a 2007 GLS with auto trans.
View 15 RepliesI drive a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS and it has about 84,000 miles on it. Sometimes in the morning the car will not start and I have to start it in reverse... Often times the check engine light will come on and stay on and other times it will go out. Sometimes when I am putting the car in reverse it stalls out... Then there is this horrible loose knocking noise that I think it coming from the steering wheel... Is this car about to put me down?
View 19 RepliesI have an interesting issue that happened today after filling up on the way home from work. I have a 2011 Accent; 5 speed manual with 3900 miles. I filled up my tank and then topped off a little extra (which I now know is a no no) after the pump shut off. I put the cap back on, and after getting a cup of coffee, cranked her up and started on my way home. I drove maybe 20 feet and after coming to a stop, the car stalled. I wasn't sure at this point if maybe I let off the clutch a little too much. I started right back up and drove another 20 feet to a stop sign, and she stalled out on me again.
This time, after starting right back up, I noticed the check engine light was on, and if the car idled, it stalled. This is where it gets a little interesting. I was maybe 5 miles from the dealership where I bought my car. So I made a quick trip to the dealership to see if they could get the codes to determine the problem. After parking at the dealership, I turned off the car, removed the key from the ignition for about 10 seconds, and then started up again for giggles. The check engine light is now gone, and the car doesn't stall when idle. I have an appointment to get my oil changed, and am wondering if the codes can still be pulled?
I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited, 3.8 with 5 speed automatic; car has 139K miles. I am noticing a small 'click' noise when putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop. Car otherwise drives beautifully - the 'click' doesn't seem to affect driving it. The CV's don't make a clatter if accelerating at full wheel lock, which is usually the tell-tale for bad CV's. Is this something simple? My thoughts are:
1.) Somehow it's a CV joint. Grayson Hyundai said they're 'shot' but I think I would notice more than a brief click? They said a whole bunch of other things were wrong on their 'inspection', said the brakes were 'shot' because the rotors had rust on them... I don't trust that opinion.
2.) A motor mount or transmission mount. Seems more likely since would be most noticeable with torque.
3.) Something in the suspension. The car has new tie rod ends, but there may be something else worn/loose that I'm not aware of.
4.) Maybe I am just being too picky. The car drives awesome!
Maybe I'm overreacting, I just don't want some sort of catastrophic failure to occur.. The car still feels very robust, solid, and overall quite healthy..
My wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
View 2 RepliesI bought my son a 07 F250. 5.4L and he tells me it is dying on him, it started out with it trying to die when going into reverse, now he can't keep it running much at all. He took it to the Firestone shop and they are telling him one of the camshafts is probably bad... I highly doubt it. And a new 3k motor is what he needs...
The truck has 145k on it and has been well maintained and just had the oil and fluids changed. Air filter is good, battery is new as well. Only thing I can think of is to clean the throttle body and air meter, he lives 200 miles away so it is hard to troubleshoot over the phone. Any pointers to look at? possible vacuum leak somewhere?
My 2010 Accent has been stalling intermittently, always when I am idling. I'll be at a stop light, and it will stall, and then it usually starts right up again. It is almost always the same stop light on my way to work, like clockwork, and likewise on my way home from work. Also, sometimes right after this stalling event, the motor will be a little rough on the highway, sputtering like it's not getting gas very well, but then it evens out after a while.
Yesterday for the first time it died and wouldn't start again. I suspected my fuel pump had gone out. I had it towed to a repair shop, but it started just fine for them and they can't re-create the problem. It doesn't give any computer codes at all.
Twice today my car stalled out while idling. Once at a left turn red light and once in the drive thru. The first time it restarted after about 10 minutes. The second time it restarted after about 2 minutes.
Car is throwing cod P0339 for Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent.
I did some reading up on this on the forums but didn't do much about it. I just tried wiggling the wiring and all that when idling, didn't notice any roughness or stalling so.... may not be a connector issue.
Anyhow, planning to take it in for diagnosis and repair as it's really not derivable the way it is.
Actually this is the first time ever the car has given me engine trouble of any kind. just passed 90,000 miles. Shucks, streak broken.
I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
Like the title says. All of a sudden when I put the car in reverse I got a rumble and the car vibrates some.
View 41 Replies[URL] .... You have to crank your speakers to hear properly, the mic in my phone was trying to cancel the engine noise I think... Someone suggested an exhaust hanger in another thread, I still have to get under the car next oil change and check that.
View 1 RepliesTwo big issues of concern with my newly purchased used Accent with 40k on it.
When starting the car first thing in the morning, when I drive the car out my drive way in reverse, it feels like it runs a little rough in reverse. Nothing dramatic, but still strangely rough to cause me a little concern. The rest of the day i only have to reverse briefly from parking spaces, so i dont really notice it then. Is this normal? My driveway is also at a slight downhill angle, which may be related to the roughness?
My second big concern, is my AC makes a very low, hardly audible, but still noticeable growling sound. It is most noticeable after the car has been sitting a few hours, then I start it, and if I wait for about 30 seconds, I hear it growl for about 10 seconds. While driving the car around I hear it sporadically make the sound then too. It isn't consistent enough to say I hear it every certain amount of time. Its very random, except I always hear it after it's been sitting for a long time.
I can hear the sound best when the fan is set to Level 1. Turning it up to Level 4 doesn't make the growl louder, but it makes the fan so loud that its harder to hear the growl. Also, when I have it at level 1, and turn the AC button off, the growl goes away. It's concerning to me, and when I took it to the dealership, it wouldn't make the growl sound when the guy listened.
I've had my new left over 2010 SE for couple weeks now. done 600 miles.
I noticed at first a couple times when shifting from 1st to reverse while parallel parking and still slightly rolling forward, the the gear grinded a bit, despite the clutch being fully depressed. I figured maybe with this manual tranny compared to others i've driven that you just have to be dead still before shifting into reverse.
But then yesterday morning from my driveway, from a standstill I shifted into reverse and it grinded too, again with the clutch fully depressed. Is this normal with these cars? I've driven manual gtis and a ford focus and never experienced this before? Is this a problem?
the fact that it's happened three times now within a couple weeks tells me it's not me being sloppy on the clutch, it is definitely grinding with my foot all the way down on the clutch.
I have a 07 Elantra, with 300k km. most times coming to a stop it will almost stall with a few maybe 1 in 10 will actually stall if I would let it. I can control this with not actually stopping, but almost stopping, and let my foot off the brake slightly and let it move ahead slowly before coming to a complete stop. I have searched the Internet for quite a while and all I could ever find was try shifting to neutral when stopping. If I shift to neutral there is absolutely no sign of stalling, but they never said what it would be or how to fix it. Other than the stalling or almost stalling upon stopping, it idles perfectly and always starts right back up and runs fine.
View 5 RepliesI'm looking to wire in a AUX light to my reverse lights. As an option, I want to be able to turn the AUX light on without putting the car into reverse as well. This is what I have setup currently and it allows the AUX light to turn on when in reverse with no issues but I can't get the switch to activate the light separately from putting the car into reverse. Every time I flip the switch, it blows the fuse near the 12v input source and never fires up the AUX light. I was wondering if I have the wrong relays or even the wrong switch.
View 18 RepliesMy 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
View 4 RepliesMy backup camera stopped turning on when I put the car in reverse. Why? I'm thinking it might be a fuse issue, but I can seem to figure out which fuse from the information in the manual.
View 9 RepliesSo I just installed my short shifter and everything works great, all the gears engage, however, when I put my shift knob on I noticed I couldn't engage reverse because it sits down too low and doesn't allow the reverse lockout to get over the rail and engage reverse. I have to loosen the knob so it sits higher and then I can engage reverse, but it moves around, so I can't leave it like this...right now my plan is to make some sort of spacer for the knob to sit on and then put loctite on it...seems like it would solve my problem. I have a Hyundai Aluminum shift knob and the short shift is OEM so I don't see what could be wrong ...
View 8 RepliesOk, so I got my car at 60k miles, and the clutch went out almost instantly so I had the entire clutch replaced, and it was working just fine until now. It has been 25k miles since I did the full clutch replacement so it shouldn't be messing up again already. It is not going in to reverse at all, it goes in to 1st gear, but only after a lot of coaxing and grinding, and the clutch feels strange. The clutch is too soft (too easy to push down), but after a while it seems to get better.
2007 Hyundai Accent GS
Manual, hatchback
85k miles
I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.