Gen 2 Prius :: Turn AUX Light On Without Putting The Car Into Reverse - Wiring Circuit?
Mar 16, 2016
I'm looking to wire in a AUX light to my reverse lights. As an option, I want to be able to turn the AUX light on without putting the car into reverse as well. This is what I have setup currently and it allows the AUX light to turn on when in reverse with no issues but I can't get the switch to activate the light separately from putting the car into reverse. Every time I flip the switch, it blows the fuse near the 12v input source and never fires up the AUX light. I was wondering if I have the wrong relays or even the wrong switch.
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The tail lights do not turn off- the head lights do not turn on. every fuse was pulled and still the tail lights stayed on. Headlight switch was swapped out with a new one to eliminate it with no different result. No modifications known to have been made to the electrical system. This thing did spend a lot of time in NY state, so corrosion is likely. But this does not explain how/why the tail lights would stay on even if the headlight switch was off... IMO this would have to be an ignition switch issue.
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My trailer has surge brakes so I need to tap into the reverse light circuit to convert the 4 wire trailer harness to 5 wire. The reverse light wiring runs in the lower cargo area anywhere...trying to avoid having to trace it from the hatch into the headliner.
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I was on the way home tonight and I noticed the driver side HID headlight turn off after putting my turn signal on.
I have LED DRL fog lights installed and they're wired with no relay and plugged into the Engine Compartment fuse box. The installer connected them on the left side (where the wires come in, from the two black components by the air filter).
Could this wiring setup be interfering with the HID's?
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I've searched all over and can't seem to find the answer. When I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct?
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My hazard, reverse don't work. The over all instruments panel light doesn't light up (the small bulbs work). Gauges with needles work. I'm putting every thing back into the truck. I left the steering wheel resting on the floor while cleaning and also left the wiring in. Everything else came out because I had to clean out the smell of mice. After I installed the instrument panel I started the truck, there was no hazard lights. I checked all the fuses under the dash. I checked all the fuses under the hood.
I did have a bent brake plug blade to bend straight. I need to replace a bad key cylinder, you can turn it without a key. I believe there were three plugs I unplug to lower the steering wheel. Park brake, brake pedal and a plug under the steering wheel. Wipers, interior ceiling light work. I believe there's a switch on the column (?) that includes the wiper arm. Should it also operate the hazard lights ? The steering column is installed, I can drive it around. Outside cargo lights won't go off, even with the light switch pushed in. Everything worked before.
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I would like to hook up some auxiliary reverse lights, I want to use a relay. And activate the relay when I put my truck in reverse. I would like the relay to be in my custom relay/fuse box under my hood near my battery. I'm looking for a wire I can tap into, to use to active the relay as close to the battery as possible. Or at least a wire on the outside of the cab near the engine compartment. Maybe there's one coming from the tranny? I have a 2011 f250 super duty. XL, I think, its a very base model truck no power windows or locks, only fm/am radio, no NAV system, no remote unlock, no nothing, 2 wheel drive.
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I'm having a turn signal issue with my '02 F-250 that started this morning out of the blue. Seems that when the signal switch is set for a right hand turn and the brakes are applied, the signal will then become solid, not flash, and then blow the fuse. Evidently something with the brake light circuit is overloading the turn signal circuit and not canceling when the turn signal is activated.
Here are a couple of things I have tried to narrow down the culprit.
1) Left turn signal works fine regardless if the brake lights are operating.
2) Brake light circuit operates fine by itself.
3) Right turn signal works fine but there seems to be a back-feed of power causing the center third brake light as well as the left side rear brake light to flash in unison. If brake lights are then activated, the flash stops and becomes constant thus blowing the fuse.
4) Emergency Hazard lights work perfect but the center third brake light again flashes as well which reverts back to some type of back-feed of power. Also, if brake lights come on, flashing turns to constant light and then blows the fuse again.
I guess my question is,. does this seem like the multi-function switch needs replacing or could this be a relay issue of some sort? I don' think its a ground issue simply because the left turn signal circuit as well as the center brake light circuit are both being breached when the right turn signal is activated. Your thoughts?
2002 F-250 Super Duty 5.4 V8
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I am wanting to wire my 03 f250 cargo (3rd brake light area) lights to come on when i put my truck in reverse.
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I have a 2007 e350. I installed a battery isolator and I believe I need to run a wire from the ignition circuit to the exciter post on the isolator. I found the Power Distribution Panel under the hood (drivers side) which has a fuse in slot #7 (60 amp Maxi Fuse) listed as Ignition Switch/Accessory Delay. What is the best way to tap into this?
Also, I have 8 gauge wire which I ran from the isolator to the batteries. I am second guessing this now and wondering if I should go with thicker wire?
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My 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited, 3.8 with 5 speed automatic; car has 139K miles. I am noticing a small 'click' noise when putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop. Car otherwise drives beautifully - the 'click' doesn't seem to affect driving it. The CV's don't make a clatter if accelerating at full wheel lock, which is usually the tell-tale for bad CV's. Is this something simple? My thoughts are:
1.) Somehow it's a CV joint. Grayson Hyundai said they're 'shot' but I think I would notice more than a brief click? They said a whole bunch of other things were wrong on their 'inspection', said the brakes were 'shot' because the rotors had rust on them... I don't trust that opinion.
2.) A motor mount or transmission mount. Seems more likely since would be most noticeable with torque.
3.) Something in the suspension. The car has new tie rod ends, but there may be something else worn/loose that I'm not aware of.
4.) Maybe I am just being too picky. The car drives awesome!
Maybe I'm overreacting, I just don't want some sort of catastrophic failure to occur.. The car still feels very robust, solid, and overall quite healthy..
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My Accent is a 2007. It regularly has the check engine light come on. They continually claim it's the fuel cap. When it's colder, even when it's been running it continually stalls when your putting it in reverse. They also claim that's not a problem. It's only got 25K on it. So the fact that it's already have problems is rather annoying.
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My mechanic noticed an engine vibration when he was installing my new brake pads and rotors. He noticed the vibration when putting it in reverse. He then checked the engine and mounts. He then asked about the timing belt. I told him the belt was changed at 62,000 miles. The Accent currently has 76,000. He thinks that the belt may have jumped or a counter balancer is not working right. I do not know if the 2007 has a counter balancer. Any diagram of the timing belt, pulleys and counter balance (if it has one). It is a 2007 GLS with auto trans.
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My backup camera stopped turning on when I put the car in reverse. Why? I'm thinking it might be a fuse issue, but I can seem to figure out which fuse from the information in the manual.
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I just had a headache rack built for my truck. Looking to wire in 2 very bright reverse lights, 2 not so bright lights to deal with stuff in the bed of the truck at night, and also mounted a receiver hitch so I can hook a winch up back there when needed. looking for opinions on wiring for all of this. Never wired stuff like this so I'm shooting in the dark. My wiring skills are adequate but not great.
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'03 E250 connector C3136 located by the left lower B Pillar---have lost power to the Brown wire which seems to be designated as Circuit 124.
Which fuse controls that circuit? I have a factory EVTM but I can't find what fuse to check. And here I though I knew something?!
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Need a wiring diagram that will show me how the rear window defroster circuit works in my Excursion. I have the EATC, which may or may not be related... not sure. So the diagram would probably need top be from 2002-2005. Obviously I ask because mine is not working (and neither are the mirror heaters since they are activated by the same switch - I think???). I've checked fuses to no avail...
Mine has never worked since I got this Excursion put together last year. I have read some previous threads that mention two different rear hatch glass defroster grids, one being a higher output grid (and different resistance?) than the other. Is there a chance my system is looking for the higher ohm grid, but my window grid is the lower ohm unit and therefore not activating the timer? I only ask this because my electrical system is M/Y 2002, but my back hatch is from a 2000 M/Y.
Also, I get no indicator light when the switch is depressed. I have tried 3 different switches just because I had extras... no luck.
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I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.
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I have a 5 speed 99 Jeep Wrangler and when the car is running, it's extremely hard to put the car into first gear from a standstill. However, once it's in gear, shifting is fairly normal but still offers a little resistance. I feel like I have to wiggle it into gear. When putting the car in reverse from a standstill, the gears grind terribly.
Once the car is off, shifting is still difficult until I put it in reverse. Somehow, this "fixes" the problem and everything shifts smooth as a dream until I start the engine and then it's a 50/50 shot until it eventually fails later on.
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I drive a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS and it has about 84,000 miles on it. Sometimes in the morning the car will not start and I have to start it in reverse... Often times the check engine light will come on and stay on and other times it will go out. Sometimes when I am putting the car in reverse it stalls out... Then there is this horrible loose knocking noise that I think it coming from the steering wheel... Is this car about to put me down?
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