I recently purchased a 2006 Avalon XLS, 120,000 miles. About 25% of the time, it will crank for several seconds without starting. Turn off the key momentarily and try again, it fires right up every time. This tends to happen when setting for an hour or more, but can also happen after just a few minutes. My first thought is fuel pressure, but can't find a good spot to attach a pressure gauge.
View 5 RepliesMy husband has a 2013 Subaru Legacy, and we have noticed that on days where the temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it is having trouble starting. It cranks for about 7-10 seconds prior to starting, or will not start until after a few attempts. We have owned the car for about a year, and did not notice this problem last winter.
So far, we have taken it back to the Subaru Dealer twice. The first time, they told us they found nothing wrong with the car. The second time, they tried draining and recharging the battery. Our car is still having issues starting, and we are not sure where to turn to next. Is this a known issue with Subaru Legacy? Our car is still under warranty.
Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2005 Camry 2.4L. Car won't start but it cranks. Got some codes being thrown:
P0010 (camshaft position 'A' Acuator circuit bank 1),
P0748 (Pressure control solenoid 'A' electrical),
P0778 (Pressure control solenoid 'B' electrical),
P2716 (Pressure control solenoid 'D' electrical).
Checked the ignition coils and all 4 are firing and sparking, sprayed some starter fluid in the throttle body and it didn't start. I'm also not hearing the fuel pump prime.
Additionally, I've tested the OCV by pulling it out and connecting it to 12v and its clicking like expected (cleaned it and put it back in - still won't start). I've also had the battery tested and it's fine. I pulled the camshaft sensor and cleaned it and tested it, and it tested fine as well.
When I tested the Crankshaft position sensor I got the ohm reading to be very high, higher than normal operation. Could this be allowing spark but also malfunctioning enough to not allow the fuel pump to prime and turn on fully?
I have an Avalon 2009 with the TMPS indicator blinking for 30 seconds when the car is started and won't go off.
I think this might indicate an issue with the sensor? How do I know which one and how to replace it?
Also, I cannot release the trunk from the button in the car (by my knee) or the trunk release button from the remote.
Does the TMPS light blinking and staying on has anything to do with that?
In the past, when I had a rear signal bulb went out, I couldn't scroll down my window either. Once I replaced it, I was able to.
I wonder if the trunk being locked from automatic release methods is the result of the TMPS light being on.
I have a 2011 Avalon and only 7000 miles on it. For the past month or two I've been getting a weird smell from the AC. Never got that smell when I first got the car. Smelt perfectly fine like a brand new car until now. I don't know how to describe the smell, but I know it isn't the smell of a dead animal. When I first start my car after it has been sitting for awhile, lets say over night, the smell is evident for the first 10 seconds. After those ten seconds the smell goes away and I don't really smell much of it. The smell is there but you can barely smell it. However, whenever I turn the "AC" button off but leave the fan running, the smell becomes very evident and it doesn't go away.
I've tried checking the filter. The filter was perfectly fine. It was clean with a little area of black on it which i believe is normal. Also the smell that I smelt wasn't in the filter. Another question is, is the filter facing upward suppose to be collecting the pollen and junk? Or it is suppose to be collected from the bottom? I might have replaced the filter the wrong way.
I have a 2005 Avalon ltd. 60,000 mi. I love my car! the low beam
Headlight on the drivers side goes on but then after approx. 30-45 seconds goes out. The passenger side and the brights are ok.
How do you replace the low beam bulb? which bulb do I purchase?
Is there a video showing the way to get at and remove/replace the bulb.
My 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with 118,000 miles cranks a bit too long. The issue was due to corroded battery terminals. I cleaned the positive terminal of its snow but it seemed to be the same. Yesterday I also cleaned the negative side. It starts better, but I had hoped that after a day of driving, it would have returned to normal. How long should I drive it before I pull the battery and get it tested? There seems to be plenty of cranking going on. It just hesitates and eventually starts. I drove about 40 minutes to work this morning and the same coming home, all on the highway. If I restart shortly after shutting down, it starts just as quickly as it used to.
View 10 RepliesWife complained about the noise coming from the front. She said it sounds like an engine noise. I took her car for a few days noticed the noise starting at about 25mph+ (near the driver side). Tried to put the engine in N and rev it, while driving, pretty such it is not the engine.
I do notice the noise is getting a bit louder today compared to last week...Did some google search and "it might" be the bearing. Just wonder what to do next. My wife doesn't want to drive it at this time....so she took my truck today
For the last two years we have been having this problem off and on. The car typically will not start in the morning but 8 hours later it will start right up with no hesitation. The engine always cranks but it will not start. Every time we have the vehicle towed to a mechanic's shop either the car starts as soon as the towing company drops off the car or first thing in the morning when they go to start looking at it. When the vehicle does start there is absolutely no hesitation and no decrease in the performance. The vehicle has never stalled on me, and I have tried pumping the gas and putting the vehicle in neutral but have been unsuccessful in figuring out this problem. The check engine light does not come on and there aren't any codes saved in the memory.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 avalon XLS. In the morning the car cranks but wont start unless I press the gas pedal. After that everything was fine. But recently the problem is getting worse. The car became harder to start although it will start eventually. I have changed the Mass air flow sensor, but did not solve the problem.
View 10 Replies*2008 Camry LE i4 Auto Trans US built*
My son's Camry sometimes takes several cranks (4-5 seconds) to start up and then there's times when it fires right up. Typically during first start of the day or if the car has sat for several hours, it fires up instantly.
Now if the car has been driven for any length of time and parked momentarily.....then on restart, the car will crank for several seconds before firing up.
There are absolutely NO "engine" lights on and the spark plugs were changed out with OEM Denso plugs from Toyota 6k miles ago. Also the battery is less than 6 months old (holds a full charge) and Throttle body and injectors have been thoroughly cleaned.
This issue has been lingering way before plugs were replaced, throttle body and injectors were cleaned, and before battery was replaced.
I have 99 Sunfire 2.2L doesn't like to start right away. You turn the key and it cranks, cranks, cranks, and does that for about 5-8 seconds then start. If I shut the car off and turn it back on within an hour it seems to start pretty quick,(my only crank for a second or two).. It seems to be when it sets for a few hours it just hates to start. It always cranks strong .. i.e. it doesn't crank weak or slow like when your batter is very low.
I put a new alternator in it about 3 years ago and new battery in it last week. I do not have a system or any accessories that maybe causing any interruption. I have had this problem for year now and I have had it.
I just bought this 97 passat vr6 today off of a friend currently don't run, friend told me that 1 day while driving it just shut off, would not start waited a while fired back up got it home now will not start, so i messed with it today took coil pack off had a little crack fixed it, car started ran maybe 45seconds then shut off and just cranks won't turn over, is this due to the coil pack or maybe crank sensor or knock sensor??
View 2 Replies2011 f150 5.0... When I turn the key it cranks for about 10 secs I don't hear the fuel pump come on what should I check first before replacing the pump....
View 3 RepliesIt driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
View 2 RepliesOkay, let me start by saying that its not the battery, (got it checked and tried to jumps with cables) and I got nothing...I replaced the starter and powwow.. That wasn't the problem, so now I'm confused as crap... Only thing I got left is the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.. I tried to put it in neutral and got nothing..
Could it be the vats system, although my security light doesn't come on... But when I try to bypass the starter soliniod, it cranks but it dies in a matter of seconds.. And I heard the the anti theft system block the starter from firing up the fuel injectors...
My son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
View 5 RepliesWhere to monitor or what to check. The past few weeks this truck all the sudden went from a quick starter(barely hit the key and it would pop off) cold and hot to one that consistently cranks for around 5 seconds before it starts. Doesn't matter if I wait for the glow plug dash light to go out when it's sat for two days or if the engine has a ECT of 198 F and was just running 5 minutes prior...it still cranks over for 5 seconds before starting. Seems like it's an electronic issue vs mechanical, but that's just a guess.
The truck runs, drives and tows excellent outside of this starting quirk...so I know I shouldn't complain but this isn't right from what it used to start like and seems like it's a warning that something is likely to fail down the road. I'd Rather find it now than when 100's of miles from home if possible.
I updated it with better dummy plugs, standpipes, STC fitting, rebuilt FICM, 2 fresh batteries, new fuel pump, ICP sensor all within the last 10K miles. I scanned it with a code reader and found no codes in the history and the check engine light is not on.
Monitoring with a Scan Gauge all inputs seem normal for what I've read on this website with the exception of SYC it says 0? Which should mean it would never start I think but yet it does? I checked my code numbers from the list and I had it entered correct. Is this my issue a bad crank or cam position sensor?
My problem is with a 2000 Mountaineer V8. Once a year I have to replace the battery after the first cold snap due to low cranking amps. I can simply hook up a battery charger and it will crank and fire. My second problem is most likely related. When I replace the battery it will kick off like a brand new car with no hesitation. After a few starts it takes 5-15 seconds for the engine to fire while the engine cranks normally, and that's how it operates all year. After having this problem again this year (I've owned it 4 years) I've realized the underlying problem is not the battery. All the connections are good, and it has a good ground. No lights or warnings, and when tested with a handheld scanner there are no error codes.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 v8 lse with 92000. When i go to start it after it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more it cranks for a long tome before starting. When it does start it idles fine but has a strong fuel smell. There are no codes and no problems once it starts. However it starts up right away in cold weather. It seems like a flooding issue. The fuel pressure is within range but it does seem to bleed off quicker than most cars i work on when the engine is no longer running..
Unfortunately I don't have the specs on on fuel pressure runoff. I suspect the fuel pressure sensor/regulator. I don't believe it would be an injector due to the fact it never runs rough or misses once started and if it was the pump it wouldn't give off a fuel smell in the exhaust once started.