Buick - Regal :: 1993 - Transverse Spring Isolator Pads Worn Off?
Sep 13, 2013
I have a 1993 Regal Custom. The friction pads on the transverse spring had worn off. I replaced with the aftermarket isolator pads. These work well. The problem I am having is that after a few months they tend to shoot out. You will hear a large bang and then see the pad shoot out in the rear view mirror. This seems to happen when their is a load in the rear of the car. What can be done to prevent this.
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Buick Regal 2000... Could it possibly be a leaf hitting ventilation fan? Turn the fan off to test. Looking for someone who knows something about cars to listen under the hood and try to pinpoint the source.
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1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
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190000 miles... Driving on the highway my car began to vibrate and lose speed. I had to shift out of overdrive before I could get the car to respond again. It continued to feel incredibly impeded. I could not push the car over 65mph and couldn't remain at speed going uphill. From a dead stop, the car accelerates incredibly slow in any gear. The engine feels impeded even in P and N almost like the trans does not disengage.
The trans will downshift and kick up RPM when the pedal is put to the floor like normal. What could be causing the trouble and how much it could cost to have repaired? I have checked the trans fluid in park at op temp and it's perfect. No fluid is leaking from the car. Car feels like it's in drive and I'm holding the brakes while hitting the gas... even in P and N so I don't think it could be brakes.
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So my brake pads worn light came on recently on my 03 jetta...low and behold all 4 brake pads needed changing...funny though because upon buying pads with the sensor when I went to put new pads on the old ones didnt even have a sensor it was already cut at the harness and spliced together to keep the light off....so upon inspection one of the wires was black and the other copper....idk if one was supposed to be black or if its because its fried? Anyways i went as far up the wires as I could till they are harnessed in with the abs sensor wires...still one wire black....spliced together crimped and still the light comes and goes....I dont have access to the vcds or vagcom so can't turn it off that way..
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Just had 30,000 km service done and was told the rear disc brake pads are almost completely worn out. The front ones are hardly worn and I'm not a fierce type driver who jams on the brakes or one who leaves the handbrake on..
I asked the service manager how come the rears are worn yet the fronts aren't - his answer was sometimes this happens.
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I'm thinking about buying a 98 Explorer that has an ABS light on. I haven't looked at it yet. In the ad, the seller claims it's due to worn brake pads in the rear. If that's true, then it's not a big deal. Can the ABS light be set by worn pads? Most of my cars are too old to detect this, but even if they did, I wouldn't know because I never let my pads get that low.
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The brake pads worn symbol has lit up in the instrument cluster on my wife's 2008 Touareg V8. The car has 33K. Per Tom Bush VW in Jacksonville, both pads and rotors must be replaced. This is without even looking at it.
Per Osteen VW also in JAX, I might not have to replace the rotors. They stated that what they have seen is that usually the rotors don't get replaced until the second visit to replace pads.
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I have about 50,000 miles on my pads, they look 50% gone, but couple days ago I've got short "beep" and light yellow came on(circle with several small parts of larger circle). What and why? Rotors, pads, other?
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This started recently and suddenly during our recent snow. It sounds like the pads have worn down. Only happens at very low speed, not immediately at the point where the disc brakes cut in (>7mph?). Apart from the sound, the braking action feels normal and it stops fine.
The pads were only replaced a few months ago. Done 106,000 miles now, and no more than 2,000 since pads replaced.
I had thought it might be some grit caught between disc and pads but it would have cleared by now and there are now obvious signs on the disc of anything.
What would I be best to remove the wheels and take a closer look. Also, is there a wear sensor on the pads?
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Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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On my 99 at the tip of the springs there is what looks used to be plastic wear spacers between the leafs. Mine are worn out and I think it is part of a squeak noise I am chasing.
What that part would be, where I could get them, and do I have to break down the leaf assembly to change them or could I raise the truck by the frame and take the load off the springs enough to get the in?
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I took my R to a local mechanic to have my rotors turned and my brake pads replaced (RedStuff). A couple of days later, I noticed a loud noise coming from my front passenger wheel well when I was driving, and the pitch changed when I hit my brakes. It appears that the anti-rattle spring was not reinstalled properly because it has fallen in between my caliper and rotor, causing damage to the rotor and my aftermarket wheels. Since I'm not much of a DIYer, I wanted to get your opinion on the situation and how I should approach things with my mechanic. How hard is it to properly install the anti-rattle spring?
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I have a 93 Regal custom with 3800 engine. The engine idles at a stop at about 800 rpm. At times it will idle at 1000 rpm or maybe 1200 to 1500 rpm. When the idle is very high I will shut the engine and restart, most times it will return to 800 rpm. I cleaned the MAF and this seemed the frequency has lessened.
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About the Car: It has 101,00 miles on it. I haven't own this car for long (less than a month). I bought it pretty cheap to do some grocery shopping with. I have no plans to drive it more than 10 miles in a trip. I have a bicycle with a trailer, but there are days in the winter when the weather says, "No" to bicycling. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced at a shop when it wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. They said the fuel pressure was low, and it needed to be replaced. It was fine for a little while, but then it wouldn't start for the past three days now. No cranking at all. I can turn on the radio and roll windows up and down, though. I do remember seeing a Check Engine, Battery symbol sign, and a couple other lights off-hand. I'm at work right now.. so I'll have to go home to see if the Security light also was there, too.
Also! I did find an electrical line that did not go anywhere... not sure if that has anything to do with the fact that there is no window washer fluid tank (wipers do work).
After reading a little about other Buicks in the forum not cranking, I will definitely try the Security Light issue after I get home from work.
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I have a Buick regal 1996 v6 3.8l . SO my car tends to over heat really fast with the reservoir still nearly full of coolant also my fans also turn on really late.. Ive came down to the conclusion that it might be the temperature sensor idk whatelse to do. Ive changed the thermostat about a month ago.
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS with a supercharged 3.8 liter engine and 161,000 miles. I bought the car off of my uncle and he said he would have to change plug wires every month to month and a half because it would start missing so bad. When I first drove the car it would quit on me at red lights and in parking lots, it only seemed to do it at low idle speeds. I live on a hill with a blacktop road and I had to give it a lot of gas just to pull the hill it was missing so bad. The plug wire had a lifetime warranty on them so I replaced them and it stopped quitting on me but I still had a bad miss at random but not as bad it would just be like hard jerks. I added sea foam fuel injection cleaner and had the fuel filter replaced. The mechanic checked the spark plugs and he said they were like new AC Delco. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor (the mechanic told me to and how) because the engine did not run steady at idle and it seemed to work that, but not the miss. Could my problem be the plug wires? They are carquest brand 7mm wires.
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My 1995 Buick Regal seems to loose gas pressure. Have had several repairs done, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and nothing seems to work. It seems that the repair shops are guessing at the problem. Sometimes it even stalls out completely but usually starts back up.
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Here over the last week or so I've noticed my car start to have a bumpy ride around 35-42 ish mph, and around 65-70 ish mph. It feels worse probably around that 40 range, and seems to be even more pronounced during acceleration. It's not a super high frequency or anything, maybe just a couple hundred HZ. I have been driving it considerably more over the last month with my new job (around 140 miles a day, mostly highway/interstate driving). I've got an oil change/ fluids checked about 3 weeks ago or so.
2000 buick regal ls ......
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I just picked up a 1991 Buick Regal for a good deal, but already the repair costs to get this thing up to speed are mounting :
Right now I'm dealing with all four tires losing pressure. The 24 year old car still has its original wheels (15 inch aluminum) and I'm assuming that they are losing pressure at the seal. The tires are only about a year old and the stems look okay, so do you think I'm on the right track?
There is one strange part to all of this: The vehicle with its equipped tires is rated at 30 PSI and if I fill them to 30 they are all down about five pounds within a few hours or after a drive. However, they do not lose more than or much more than 5 PSI. The front tires lose more air and lose it faster, but the lowest I've seen them is 23. Is only losing a few pounds of air and not going flat evidence of a seal leak or am I in the twilight zone?
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I have a 2001 buick regal with the odometer lights out. How do I fix this? Do I have to take the dash off to get to the light?
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