Recently with the rain and snow my truck has started missing but only around 2,000 rpm in lower gears. its a 1996 chevy k1500, it has new plug wires spark plugs and new distributor cap and rotor. When its dry outside it runs fine and everything is tight so I'm thinking it has to be the tower or coil.
View 1 RepliesI was driving home from work and out of the blue my truck started slipping gears so wen I got home I looked under my truck at the transmission and drive shaft and from the picture I attached that is what I saw...
View 4 RepliesI've got a 97 f150 4.6 that has randomly started missing over the last month. It has started to get more frequent and codes are showing a misfire on both cylinder 1 and 8. Both of these cylinders run off the same coil pack. I'm thinking its the coil? The plugs and wires, motocraft, have about 3k on them and the truck runs great otherwise. I just don't know how common a coil would cause this or if they would act intermittent like this.
View 5 RepliesSo I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
View 2 RepliesAll week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
View 10 RepliesAt a loss right now. My 2004 F150 4X4 and just recently started sounding like the truck is trying to shift into 4X4 mode while driving it. It stops if it's switched into 4X4. I have taken it to a local mechanic shop I use and they said it was the Actuators and they replaced those. I got it back and the same day the noise came back. Took it back and they have had it for another week and still unable to figure it out. I even took it to another shop that was highly recommended and they say to take it to a Ford dealership. I have read that some say it could be the vacuum operated hubs? Need to figure out what it was and had it fixed?
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 4 cyl Santa Fe the check engine light came on now it jerks in all gears kinda like its missing.
View 1 RepliesFor some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
View 13 RepliesCar misses horrible at times at idle and lower RPM's, shakes the whole car. MPG around 32. Runs better when car is fully warmed up. PO171 and PO 300, 301 and 304 codes come up.
Here's what I've done so far to try to correct the problem:
Cleaned mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced plugs and ignitors (coils). No change.
Replaced PCV valve. No change.
Replaced upstream O2 sensor. Same codes come up but MPG increased to 37.
Replaced throttle body. No change.
Car does not miss when accelerating hard. Sometimes runs perfect at idle and lower rpm's, but mpg is way low as it used to be in the 50's or higher. Car idles perfect in neutral. Always runs perfect the first 3-4 seconds when you first start it, then starts shaking. If I put my finger in the throttle body when it's running poorly, apparently disrupting the air flow a bit, the idle smooths to perfect.
I have an extra computer, although I don't know if you have to program the key for it to work. I don't suspect this is the problem anyway. I haven't changed the fuel injectors. I can't hear a vacuum leak.
Lately I have noticed that the transmission is not shifting smoothly in the lower gears. I have 114K on there. Spoke to my service manager and he mentioned that it may need calibration. Doesn't sound right after all the miles?
View 5 RepliesBeen having an issue with my 01 Wolfsburg VW Jetta 1.8T.
Whenever I'm accelerating (most noticeable in lower gears), it seems like the turbo can't keep up. Used to sound like a nice clean consistent whooooosh spooling up, but now its more like brrrr......brrrrr......brrrrr.....
Don't know how else to describe it. Seems to start and stop frequently. Will try getting a video clip of this tomorrow.
I have a 2012 Sierra 1500 SLE with a 5.3 liter engine, 6 speed transmission and about 7700 miles. I have noticed that at times the truck does not seem to be performing efficiently and will not seem as smooth and transmission shifting is sometimes not so smooth in the lower gears. I have noticed that when I let the truck warm up for about a minute before putting it in gear, that all seems to go much more smoothly, but if I crank up cold and take off right away, then it tends to run not as smooth. I have even heard a slight "slap" type noise that I think is the transmission shifting when slowing down to make a turn at about 15-20 MPH. When I go to accelerate after the turn, it will sometimes slap as if it is hunting for the right gear. Obviously, I now let it warm up for a minute before I drive it. I have not talked to the dealer, but I probably will when I take it in for its 10K checkup.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1985 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. I bought it from someone who had it sitting for a couple years and the fuel pump needed replaced, no problem. It ran fine for about 2 weeks after getting it fixed, then it started giving me problems. The transmission seemed to be having issues shifting gears at lower speeds, but acted fine once I got up to 55+. The mileage dropped from 16 mpg to 4 mpg. It started stalling out whenever my foot wasn't on the gas, and then finally it quit running altogether.
I had a mechanically inclined family member take a look and he said it seemed to be starving for gas but other than that he had no idea, it tries to start but can't turn over. In the past year I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, and fuel injectors replaced but I'm not sure what else to look at. I'm hoping it isn't the transmission, we all know how expensive those are.
New to the R, and recently the transmission seems to be making some noise throughout lower gears at low speeds, when the clutch is engaged the noise goes away, I figured it was the throwout bearing, but now my transmission now refuses to let me into 2nd gear and also reverse.
I changed the transmission fluid hoping it would eliminate the noise a bit, and saw very small metal shavings in the old fluid. I'm now worried I have a serious transmission issue... Are these signs of major transmission issues or should I be checking linkage? Any common transmission problems with the R I might be experiencing?
I had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
View 12 RepliesI've got a 2001 Honda Civic, automatic, that has a nice (what I think) belt squeal going. It seems to happen when it's wet/cold, in the lower gears/RPMs, when the defroster and/or rear defroster are on. SOMETIMES it will stop when I turn off the defrosters. If it persists I can make it stop by quickly putting it in park (at a light or stop sign) and right back into D or if moving gunning it for a few seconds. Occasionally I do get a hot rubber smell (like a burning vacuum belt) coming through as I accelerate. So as someone with no real car knowledge, does this sound like a belt issue that I can take care or myself (i.e. belt tensioner and a gauge) or should I just leave it to the pros?
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with about 65k miles. In the past few months I've noticed that it likes to sputter and hesitate at times, mostly in lower gears when I'm not accelerating hard. At highway speeds it's mostly fine. It's also fairly random - some days it's really bad and others it's fine. Also seems worse when in reverse. I don't think the plugs have been changed so that's one idea, but I'm wondering if it's a bad fuel filter, exhaust manifold leak or something else. It's not throwing any codes (and yes the light works) and it has never stalled completely out.
View 4 RepliesJust got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
2015 Outlook 2.5 CVT - Regardless of engine temp/or oil temp, transmission will stay in low gears (relative - its a CVT) such that the car is always doing approx. 2100 RPMs. When it occurs, 35mph is 2100 RPMs; when problem is not present, same speed would be approx 1200 RPMs. Same for higher speed. 45mph would be 2100 verses approx 1400rpm. Gear indicator does indicate a '4' or '5' when it would normally be '6'.
Outside temps in excess of 30 degress - no evidence of problem. Below 30, may or may not happen. No check engine light and it does affect MPG significantly.
My friend has tortured my R32 which he was supposed to buy. I had the motor replaced while i was gone as he blew it , again , dumb. I have been driving it and it has a terrible whine in the tranny I brought it to my mechanic and we took a sample to find metal shaving in my tranny.
He says the tranny is gone but I am lost on how it shifts perfect except the whine. It does this louder in the lower gears and has a slight knock at idle and disappears when I press the clutch in.
I bought a used tranny already to put in. I also if this is the case and the tranny needs replacing I was told to also do the clutch , should I go stock to save money or go with a different clutch and possibly a LW Flywheel , is it really a drastic power difference?