Camry :: 2009 - Gas Pedal Very Hard To Modulate From A Stand Still
Sep 19, 2012
Recently purchased an 09 Camry SE, 2.4 auto(50 kms's), from a Toyota dealer. It's my wife's car, which I occasionally drive, and find the gas pedal very hard to modulate from a stand still. In other words when I initially press the gas pedal, when starting from a fully stopped position, I find the car lurches forward with too much acceleration. You can have a smooth take off that's not abrupt with acceleration, but your trying to feather the gas pedal to do so and it's a little difficult.
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I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
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I've test driven a used 2003 (155K) I'm considering purchasing. But the clutch is so stiff, especially compared to my 93 Accord. What makes a new clutch, pressure plate a throw out bearing so hard to engage?
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I've been noticing severe power loss lately . I know the 12 camry i4 has a bit of lag when acceleration but it's a bit worse now . I do have weapon r header , injen intake and magna flow muffler. I've cleaned the intake filter but sometimes the car feels as though it doesn't want to go then it does. I have to push the pedal down hard . I also have res delete.
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I bought a new toyota camry L# 2013 a month ago. The gas pedal seems very firm and need to really press hard to accelerate. My initial thought was that it being a new one it might be firm and would loosen up gradually. Its been a month and more than 1000+ miles, but the pedal is still very rigid and I am feeling leg pain because of it (I am driving 52 miles to and from work). Not sure if it is common feature or mine is behaving that way.
BTW - I also own 1999 camry and the gas pedal is very smooth and responsive.
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My 2009 Camry's gas pedal is really loose for some reason. I can feel the gas pedal shaking as I try to accelerate really fast sometimes. In addition, my engine is louder than most of other Camries out there. I heard that adjusting the throttle cable should work. However, I can seem to find the cables.
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I own a 2015 camry SE - 4k miles on it. Right from the second month I felt like the brake was stiffer and I always felt like I am going to rear end the vehicle in the front. Last one month it became really worst. The pedal feels lot stiff and I have to press hard to bring to a complete stop. Brake is not very responsive. I feel like its still rolling even after applying the brakes and I have to apply the brake very hard to come to a stop. It looks to me like there is a response delay between applying brake pedal and actual stop. I used to drive a Civic and this is my first Toyota so I am not sure whether this issue is common in camry.
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Coming out of passing gear and going into overdrive on the highway, I'm getting noticeable rumble up through the pedal (rough shifting) this happens over half the time
Still under warranty at 56000.... 2009 LE automatic....
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I have a 2009 Camry and both brake lights don't illuminate when I press the brake pedal but during night time driving, the red tailights are on indicating the bulbs aren't burnt. The third brake light on the top behind the rear seats does illuminate. By the way my tailights aren't the fancy LED ones just the normal stock bulbs. So what's the problem here? Is it a electrical issue?
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I started noticing my wifes 2009 SE was hard to turn sometime back. I finally checked under the hood and saw this. I'm not sure which hose is which but could the clamps be causing the leak? I've got ATF Dexrom III and a turkey baster with plans to try and flush it (the long way) this weekend.
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My moms 09 camry has a hard time starting and runs rough. I found out that when my father went to get an oil change, they put in 5W-30. The engine cap on the engine says 0W-20 or 5W-20. The car is at 70K and it has never had any issues, always ran smoothly, always started... until the last oil change. I have looked through the all the service logs and it seems that the last 3 services, they also used 5W-30 oil in the car.
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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My 2007 Prius has 127K miles on it and is idling rough, especially noticeable when the car isn't moving.
I've changed the 12V batteries, spark plugs and used cleaner on the throttle body. Car acceleration has improved but fuel economy and the rough idling remain unchanged.
I have an ELM327 and the Torque Pro app and the car is throwing off no codes.
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Had first rain since purchase of Prius v almost got stranded as our Prius would lose power not allowing us to move forward, we were able to reverse and accelerated. While driving at a higher speed than felt safe, and in power mode, allowed us to get to pavement our Prius would still lose power and almost came to stand still several times. As we have to traverse this road daily we are concerned heading into winter. Is this typical?
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So I have noticed a slight hesitation from a stand still. I press the gas and there is a slight delay(maybe less then a second) before something happens. It also does not do it every time, it is pretty random.
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I have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE (2.4l) that has been driving me nuts. After the engine warms up, it blows oil smoke out the exhaust pipe whenever I start from a complete stop. I can be stopped for 30 seconds or three minutes, it doesn’t matter, it will have the same amount of oil smoke cloud. The engine does not smoke when first started up when either hot or cold (so no bad valve guides?). The engine does not smoke under hard excelleration (so good piston rings?). I’ve replaced the PCV and hose. The old PCV was really cakes up. There was a CEL code for the EGR valve. I’ve cleaned the EGR valve and replaced the EGR solenoid. There was also massive oil consumption. After only 450 miles, there was hardly and oil showing on the dipstick. I’m using 5/30 convention oil. The engine idles pretty good, and has plenty of power. The pressure test showed good compression on all cylinders (130, 120, 132, 129). I really want to make this go away! How to stop the oil smoke? It’s embarrassing. What should I do next?
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Sometimes when I stand at idle, the engine seems to vibrate more than usual. I looked at the RPM gauge and it didn't move at all, it's at roughly 1000-1100 RPM when it occurs. Is it something I should show to the dealer?
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We have a 2012 Elantra Elite 6spd manual and ever since we bought it (from new) there has been an irritating noise like a graunch or short vibration that happens (sometimes but not all the time) when we are pulling away from a stand still e.g. traffic lights, parking spaces, etc in first gear.
It does not always do it and seems to be only in first and sometimes reverse but rarely. We have flagged this numerous times with the dealer (all recorded in their records), although until now they claimed they could not repeat the problem and given it is intermittent I will give them the benefit of the doubt but only just.
Finally I managed to get them to take it in today and have a look at the problem after taking a technician for a drive to demonstrate the issue and show how it does not matter if the car is under load or not it. I think it sounds like something rubbing/vibrating and coming from the cabin and not the engine bay.
The dealer has concluded that none of the exhaust TCB's are the cause and they have concluded that it is a "glazed" clutch plate or flywheel (without actually looking at it). The upshot is that the dealer says Hyundai say it is not covered by the warranty and if I want them to strip it down and have a look I have to pay for it. I have never heard of this phenomenon and in all the manual cars I have had if something goes wrong in the clutch or bearing area the noise is usually constant.
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Recently, I've noticed squeaking noise coming from some mounts whenever I accelerate from stand still, brake, or even get in the car. Car has 43k miles and is a CPO. I'm pretty sure it's the motor mounts, but a friend also mentioned subframe bushings. Should I take that to the dealer or is it wear and tear that I will have to do myself?
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I own an LS 460 and since I had the latest recall done (ELS potential fuel pressure sensor leak) my car has been idling higher than normal and i am having a constant vibration on the steering wheel in drive mode while in a stand still.
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My oil filter stand gasket is leaking and I have the gasket and am getting ready to drain coolant/flush/oil change/gasket fix and am just wondering which antifreeze to use. 2000 F150 4.6L 2WD.
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