Camry :: Uneven Tire Wear With 2011 SE
May 16, 2012
I have a 2011 Camry SE which I leased brand new from a dealership in Ottawa. It has about 35,000 KMs on it. After my last regular maintenance at the dealership (32K oil/filter change with tire rotation etc.), I started noticing a sound coming from the tires. The sound is like low pitch boom boom boom boom. I tool it to the dealdership and they told me there is uneven wear on the tire which is normal for Camry SEs because they have wider tires that easily scallop during hard cornering.
Firstly, I do not buy that explanation because it's not the first car I have driven with a little wider tires. Secondly, I do not drive rough as most of the times I have my kids in the car with me. Lastly, I would think that if you are selling sports tuned cars, you would choose appropriate tires for it so buyers can drive it like a sports car.
I wonder why the situation became noticeable after the tire rotation. According to the rep at the dealership, all 4 tires have uneven wear so should I not have noticed it before the rotation?
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I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT using the Futura GLS 225/70/R15 tires. The vehicle decal in the driver side door listed the recommended tire pressure to be 30 PSI. I have tried to maintain religiously along with proper balance and alignment. However, I've always had the experience of the tires wearing out more along the middle which seemed to indicate over inflation. The sections on either side of the center line seemed to wear out normally. For this reason I've had to turn in the tire prematurely as they become unsafe. These tires were made by Coopers Tire and distributed by Pep Boys. Have i been using poor quality tires all along? Do I need to lower my tire pressure below the 30 PSI recommended? If I do that wouldn't I be risking overheating and/or affecting my gas mileage?
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Why are My Tires Wearing Unevenly?
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Any 1 have their tire that have uneven tire wear? Mines is Dunlop and my front right tire has uneven wear on the outer thread. All other tire don't have uneven wear. I'm getting new tire for all 4 rims and check my alignment. My gs is a f sport rwd.
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2005 I4 SE Camry USA built. Got a squeak from the rears the other day and pulled the tires to check. Inside pads (ones against the caliper cylinder) on both rear wheels were at the metal but the outside pads were still not down to the little stripe down the middle of the pads, let alone the wear indicator clip. I pulled slide pins and there were not stuck. The calipers retracted very easily, so not gunked up or dragging. I ordered a new hardware kit with the new dust boots and rubber slide pin parts. I am using good Permatex disc brake grease. I am going to have to have the rotors turned, but aside from replacing the rubber parts the only other thing I can think of is slide pin replacement.
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I just thought I'd mention this observed wear of brake pads...I just replaced all 4 up front after about 128k miles...
@ 114k miles it was observed that 1 of the 2 pads of each front wheel had worn significantly more than the other (the inner more than the outer pad IIRC)....my expert mechanic rotated the two and I got another 14k miles out of them...I could have gotten a LOT more had they been rotated @ 50-80k miles.
I don't know if this is extraordinary, or more typical than I'd have thought...or a function of (failing?) calipers, or just how these (MY) calipers work, or just my driving habits (though I've owned the car for only 30k of the 128k miles on the odometer)....but....
In my case the new pads will get a 50k mile inspection and possible rotation if there is uneven wear between outer and inner pads....
I'd recommend that pads be inspected for (uneven) wear at one of the scheduled tire rotations....rotating the pads isn't much of a job, but it might be something for you to consider to get the most miles from the pads (that and better braking too perhaps).
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Have a 2005 Camry, had tire wear issues in front and strong bearing noise as well as cv issues. I've changed out the rotors, breaks, cvs' on both sides, had new bearings pressed, new struts and new tires, balance and alignment. All was well leaving the tire shop for about 10 miles. After that, the car began to pull to right and has a wobble at all speeds. Had car realigned again and balance checked, same result- alignment was out again. The one thing I haven't changed was the rack and pinion and the tie rods looked good. The rack and pinion passenger side boot is weeping and, this is the side the car keeps wanting to pull to.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry XLE that has had the following issues.
1) When going over speed bumps you can hear a very loud creaking in the front and rear and occasionally a clunk in the rear.
2) When driving on rough or bumpy roads you can hear a metallic chattering coming from the driver's side.
3) There is a vibration in the car that I can't pinpoint but I was told the front rotors are slightly warped and that could be causing it, thoughts?
4) I put brand new tires on in January and it has less than 10,000 miles on them but they already look like they need to be replaced. They are Michelin Hydro-edge tires. I have had it balanced/rotated at 6,000 miles as well as an alignment. Nothing was said to me about any problems by the tire place when I had it done a few months back, which I find odd.
5) When turning into parking spots or turning at low-speed in general, especially when turning right, I sometimes hear the tires squealing.
I was going to go ahead and replace all 4 struts, strut mounts, strut boots, rear sway bars, all 4 rotors and brake pads. But I wanted to make sure that this would fix the problem.
Do I need to get the front Driver/Passenger CV Half Shaft Drive Axle assemblies? Are there any other parts that need to be replaced that could fix the issue? (Tie Rods? Ball Joints? etc?) Are there any other parts you'd recommend replacing while working on the car? I tried searching but could not find anything that specifically matched the problems.
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I noticed this yesterday when swapping out my wheels. What could be the causes?
Pass side
Drivers side
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I have a 2006 SC 430 with 20,000 miles on it The (run flat) tires are wearing on the inside and the dealer says that they need replacing The local tire shop agrees, and will sell the tires to me for less, and also throw in an alignment He says that alignment is the reason for the uneven wear But the dealer says that the wheel on my 2006 SC 430 cannot be aligned, and that the new ones will probably wear the same way
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While in for an oil change, the tech pointed out that my rear brakes were almost metal to metal, and that one pad on each side of the car had severe uneven wear. He noted he had never seen rear brakes go this quickly in a Prius and he had never seen the uneven wear. He said part of the mechanism that allows the pad to slide in and out as the brakes are used had frozen, creating a pivot point, and creating the uneven wear. The front brakes are fine with plenty of meat left.
Parts were ordered, including new shims and other hardware to try to insure this does not happen again, and the brakes were replaced. I contacted Toyota Customer Care and basically got the old line that brakes are a wear and tear item but the issue would be sent onto engineers.
I am the sole driver of the car and use the regen brakes at every opportunity, which is most stops. Since long brake life is one of the benefits of regen brakes, this is disappointing to say the least.
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My 2014 Elantra Gt bought in May 2014 and 18000km on it now, the rear tires on both side are worn out pretty bad on the outter side of the tire. I took it to one of the dealer. The mechanic said that's not about the alignment, it's because I drove too hard in the corner..... So, I made an appointment with the other dealership which I bought the GT. I was told that it need the alignment and it's not covered by the warranty. I don't mind to pay for it but just want to make sure they will fix it.
I have the KYB on it right now. should I swap it back to the oem before I go to the dealer??
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I checked my pads today and noticed that the drivers pad is worn about 50% more than the passenger in the front. What could be the problem??
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My front driver's side Bridgestone Turanza EL400 (225/40R18) has premature wear such that the steel belt is beginning to show through the center of the tread. The front passenger side tire has no such wear and the alignment is good.
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2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
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Have a 2001 F350 7.3 4X4 with single wheels in rear. Started hearing brakes noise and decided to change both front and rear pads. Front had almost half the pads left. Rear on drivers side had about half the pads left. The passenger side metal to metal on the inboard pad and about half the pad on the outboard side. The slides on the caliper were a little sluggish but moved freely. Don't think there is enough to have them turned so will have to replace the rotors. Why this would happen. Could the caliper get stuck? It was easy enough to compress with a C clamp.
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97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
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24,000 miles, car is totally stock.
Both of my front tires have the cords hanging on on the extreme inside at a really odd angle.
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Having issues with excessive front tire wear? I have had the alignment checked by two VW garages and a third party garage and all of them confirm that the alignment is good.
The VW garage also confirmed that as far as they can see there is no suspension issues, but the excessive wear on the front tires indicates that something is wrong.
I have owned the car since new in 2008 so know it has a clean history no accidents.
Both front tires look like this.....
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I notice that my front passenger tire is getting some inner wear on it. The tire doesn't even have 5k on it. I know I should get an alignment that's a must but is there something that might be wrong with it anyways since its just the front passenger?? Balljoint, tierod end and etc?? I don't really have a local auto shop that I trust 100% so I don't want them to be like, there is 3 balljoints out and etc. I had the inner tierods (both) and a few balljoints fixed last year and then got an alignment done. Any tips??
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I decided to get an alignment (for the first time since I took delivery of the car). I noticed some unusual wear on the inner and outer tire. I will post a before and after pic of the alignment. As you can see they were unable to correct everything.
The shop says that the prius does not have any way to correct camber in the front nor was there any way to correct the toe in the rear.
I cannot think of anything that would have messed up the rear left. The shop was saying these repairs will need either a new control arm or strut.
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