I have a celica gts 2002 6speed. ok I know 2002 and 2005 celicas rev to 7,800rpm only but mine only rev to 7,000rpms. I have my check engine light on can that be ? I need to check the codes.
View 3 RepliesI have a 95 Celica ST (so it has the 1.8 7A-FE engine). When the AC is turned on and you rev the engine, when the rpms come back down it almost dies.
So say the engine is idling at 700 rpms with the AC on and I rev it up to 2,000 or something. When the rpms drop back down, instead of stopping at like 700 they go all the way down to like 400 or less and it almost stalls out. After a few seconds it comes back up to 700.
What does that sound like? All the vacuum lines are brand new, the throttle body/intake and egr valve were all completely cleaned of any carbon buildup.
Fan works and the ad button lights up but my rpms don't go up and the air doesn't get cold.
View 3 RepliesIt's starting to get warm again down here and I've started running my AC in the afternoon on my way home from work. I've noticed that as soon as I get off the freeway and sit at idle waiting for the light, the RPM's on my car drop considerably while the AC is engaged. I know there is a valve, AC idle-up valve or some such thing, that increases the idle when the AC is engaged. Where is it located and what is the proper name/part number so I can check or replace it? Haynes isn't supporting.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1987 Convertible Celica GT, with Manual Transmission. The car will not idle at lower RPM. I had someone look at it, and they have it where it will idle at 2000 RPM, but anything lower than that, and the engine will die when not giving it gas.
The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
I just got a 87 celica for $500. Anyway it runs at 2000 rpm's for an idle, could a valve adjustment be a possible problem? Also where is the best place to find some performance parts for this thing? Would like cams, headers, pistons......?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
I drive a 2000 Celica GT 5 speed. I am having an issue with my 1ZZ-FE.
I am hearing a ticking/rattling noise from my engine around 2k-3k RPMS. Anything before or after that, the noise dies down. I could hear it from the interior of the car as well. I at first thought it was valve chatter. Someone said It could be a piston or rod. What parts will be needed? Worst case, ill just swap in a 03+ 1ZZ or go with a 2ZZ.
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
View 1 RepliesI have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.
I was driving home from campus yesterday, and as I approached about 50mph, the Celica suddenly revved into higher RPMs, all the while slowing down. I pushed the gas pedal, which only worsened the problem. I was able to limp the car home. About an hour later, I tested the car again, and the problem remains: Accelerate to about 35-50, then get high RPMs while the car slows down and jumps forward.
I suspect a transmission problem, accentuated by a loose wheel bearing that I haven't been able to afford to get fixed yet. My Celica is an automatic, with about 213000 miles on it.
My car has been running kind of funny the last couple of weeks at which point I brought it to my mechanic twice. When I drive the car it seems that the gas is not getting to the engine and it bucks pretty violently around like 40-45 MPH initially and continues to bog down until the car dies. The engine light comes on. After waiting about 15 minutes it starts back up and drives okay for like the first ten minutes and continues to buck and then eventually die. First time they cleaned out the air flow sensor and changed the air filter and then they changed the cam shaft timing sensor or something like that and it continues to run terrible. It almost sounds like gas is not getting to the engine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Celica GT automatic and it wont shift out of what seems like 3rd. The car starts and runs fine and reverse works great but when I put it in drive it seems to be starting out in 3rd and will not shift out of it no mater how fast or slow I go. I tried to manually shift from low to 2nd and then to drive and nothing it still starts in 3rd. What may be causing this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 celica after sitting for a hour or so car has very long crank....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Celica GT.
It was driving fine for a few months after buying it and now all of a sudden it will just die while driving down the road. It will start and idle fine for hours but after about 15 minutes of driving it down the road it will just die without any kind of notification. It will start back up and run again after I let it sit for 15-20 minutes but will do it all over again but if I try starting it right after it dies, it will start and immediately die again. The only codes it is reading is the #1 spark plug is misfiring, but it has been that way since I bought the car.
I was told to clean the O2 sensor and throttle body, which I did and it ran fine for a few days but is back to dying randomly.
My engine is overheating, plenty of coolant but fan stopped working. Not sure whether to check fuse first. Dont actually know which fuse box to look in.
View 4 RepliesI have a 02 celica gt with 120,000 miles and when the engine is on I hear a ticking noise by the valves, is it normal...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Celica GT and the cooling loop on the power steering that runs out in front of the radiator (or AC condenser) is cracked and leaking. I need to replace it, I have a few questions:
- Where to get a replacement, likely Toyota?
- Find out how much work it is to replace myself?
- Does the system auto bleed any air or will I have to bleed it?
I am a Honda/Acura nerd. Decided to buy my friends 02 Celica that had piston slap from the famous oil consumption issue i learned about. Did a bunch of research and swapped in a Corolla motor. Everything seemed to go as normal, its in and running just fine. Only problem is now the power steering pump is making a very loud whining noise like its low on fluid.
Now first i must say the car ran, drove and turned just fine before the swap. No noises or issues aside from the piston slap. On the 1zzfe engine there is 2 bolts to remove the power steering pump and move it out of the way, easy enough.
My question is how did the power steering pump manage to get damaged? I've inspected under the car a bunch of times, inspected the top of the power steering pump, inspected everything i could looking for a problem. I just don't see any...no smashed hardlines, no leaks, has plenty of fluid, sensor is firmly plugged in. I notice when it is making the whining sound, the hardline that connects to the top of the pump is vibrating, which is what is making the sound i guess...if i crank the wheel all the way to the right or left it doesn't make the noise at all...
2002 Camry, V6, Auto
Failure description: Battery light came on at low RPM's, under 1k, about 30 miles from home last night. Highway driving for the majority. About mile 25 abs, airbag and brake lights flash on the dash, shortly after it looks like radio is struggling to stay powered. Mile 28 pull off high way. Car struggles to idle. Dash is acting erratic (tach and speedo also now) and it looks like the battery is dying. Mile 29 battery dies. I was able to get a new battery and get the last mile so to home. Still struggled to not die at low RPMs.
The mileage is roughly right but also more tied to the chronology of how things progressed. My gut feel is it could be the alternator - I'll get the multimeter on the car when I get home and see how it's behaving. However I'm surprised it wasn't able to run okay with a new battery, at least for the short distance. What things I should check/measure once I get into it aside from the alternator?