My dad has a 2001 Century that started out shifting hard, like when you'd go from reverse to drive it would jump. He ignored it. It started slipping and not wanting to go up hill. It began to leak fluid. Got the lines replaced, he was driving home and said he had to put it in 3rd to make it go because it quit moving in drive.
View 3 RepliesIssues with the transmission in the 2000 Century. My car shifts perfectly fine cold, but once it warms up it shits hard between all gears. Downshifts are never an issue, just up shifts. To me this sounds like both shift solenoids may be sticking or shot... I have already drained the fluid and changed the filter, added lucas tranny stop-slip, drained that out and replaced fluids again... no codes to go by and no high revs before shifts when accelerating...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 pontiac grand am se 4cyl with an automatic transmission and I've been having issues with my transmission, about a month ago the transmission started shifting hard then just went out so i took it to a transmission repair shop and the tech said that it was the pulling clutches and i told him to completely rebuilt the transmission including new electronics and torque converter and he did i got it back and it drove fine for that day then stared doing the same thing my transmission slams into gears and I don't know what the problem is sometimes ill be going down the road and the transmission slams and then the trac light comes on for a little bit then goes back out??? also some days i can drive it a mile or 2 before it starts slamming into gear.. what this could be causing it to slam i would think it couldn't poss be the transmission as everything has been replaced? could something else be causing it to slam into gear..
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 V10 2WD Excursion with 104,000 miles. Last week it started shifting hard between first and second, but only when I am between 1500-2k RPMs. If I rev the engine higher, it shifts smooth. I checked the fluid and it is fine. I rarely tow anything except my little trailer to the dump every few months. I have a few questions:
1. Should I drop the pan and change the tranny filter?
2. Should/Can I check the rear diff fluid? (haven't noticed any leaks)
3. Could an inline flush and fill work?
4. I saw a post about a speed sensor in the rear diff. Could this be the issue?
My car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
View 19 RepliesWell shoot, not even 120k on the odo and I've had my first major problem with the truck, and the one thing I hoped wouldn't be an issue, especially since I don't work my truck hard and 95% is driving unloaded highway as a daily driver.
Last time I drove it coming home from grocery store there was a big racket from down under (transmission area). It instantly didnt feel right - there was a slight drag even when the clutch was in, but rolled fine when I pulled it out of gear entirely. Was VERY difficult to go into first gear. Other gears shifted ok but some of them felt hard too. Would not go into reverse at all!. Slight bit of clinking noises every time I started from a stop, but made it home ok and things seemed to ease up as I went. Today, seems to be shifting fine, reverse works and everything.
Now for several years I've had a noise that I couldn't figure out. I am guessing it's related because it sounded like was coming from tranny area. Often, when starting out from a stop, there was a bit of clinking noise like a couple tin pie pans rattling together just as the clutch started to go. I kept thinking it was loose heat shield or something clanking just under the initial vibration of getting going. Never did find anything loose. I'm guessing it's internal.
I've called a couple local shops and so far no one wants to mess with it. Dam this sucks i hoped the MT would be more reliable, not the first thing to go. I myself have never messed with any aspect of a transmission, though I not opposed to learn however I was hoping to take this on an out of state trip end of May, and I'm not going to have much any free time between now and then.
We have a 2005 Avalon that was leaking oil from the oil pan about 8 months ago. Took it into a local shop and they pulled the engine and repaired the leak; everything seemed normal. Fast forward to a couple of months ago and the engine started developing a tapping sound from the valve cover. Over the span of 2 months, the tapping had become significantly more pronounced. It went from barely audible to HOLY $#!% we can hear it from inside the cabin at freeway speeds.
We finally took it to the dealer and the problem was so much worse than we were expecting. They only pulled the front valve cover, but two of the hydraulic lifters had a ton of play in it and there were very large flakes of metal in the oil. They also found whopping amounts of RTV along the seam where the timing chain cover attaches. And it was a ton! You could see goops of orange stuff all over the inside of the timing chain cover seam. While Toyota wasn't able to find the exact cause, the working (and very likely) theory is that the excess RTV broke off and blocked some of the oil ports (and possibly did damage to the pump), thereby starving the engine of oil and causing excessive metal on metal wear.
I have 89 buick Century custom cpe had it out on the highway last night and the Batt light started to flash intermittently. after a little while it calmed down. Had it out running around today and no problem. what should I check besides the battery terminals?
View 4 RepliesThe car is a 1994 Buick Century, 3.1L V6, ~ 80k miles. Four months ago she wouldn't start, so I got a new alternator and battery put in. A month later, while on a short road trip, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree the whole drive home (ABS, airbag, check engine, battery) and the voltmeter bounced around from mid-high to red-zone high. Thinking it was a bad reman, the alternator was replaced again when we got home. A few weeks went by and all seemed to be going well with the new alternator until, after driving around the city for a while, the airbag light started blinking intermittently.
Accompanying the blinking, the battery gauge again was bouncing around. Eventually, when accelerating from a stop, the car stuttered when moving forward, the battery light flickered, and the ABS light stayed on. Worried that I'd burn up another alternator, I had a mechanic look at it before my next trip. He checked the alternator/battery loads and pulley and said that nothing looked wrong. On the next trip, the intermittent airbag light blinking and voltage fluctuation returned as well as a single episode of stuttering from a stop... these things all only seem to happen after at least an hour on the road.
TO RECAP: Voltmeter gauge steady sometimes, bouncy other times... but usually too high. Airbag light blinks intermittently (seems to happen only after car is warm). Sometimes (rarely) the car will jerk from a stop, at which point the ABS light stays on. No check engine lights. Battery and alternator are new. Same problems (voltmeter in red, warning lights) occurred with last alternator until it burnt up. It seems like a voltage regulation / alternator problem, but the same symptoms occurred with two different alternators (with two different internal voltage regulators). I suspect that there is some electrical problem (short?) that is causing the fluctuating voltage and the tendency for the car to burn up alternators so frequently. However, I don't know much of anything about cars. Does that sound right? If so, where do I even start?
[URL] I even pulled the same P0170 code. And what I need to do before I spend a boatload of money and wind up sleeping in my car instead of driving it to work or lack therof is to start a troubleshooting list starting from where Sabot's update left off, i dont even know where the vacuum line is that he mentions and if i sprayed carb cleaner on it would i get a jump in engine RPM or a stall as a test?
What I have done: Cleaned MAF sensor, changed fuel filter.
What I have not done: Checked all vacuum lines, Tested fuel pressure, Tested for compression issues due to blown head gasket.
there is also a puffing noise coming from the exhaust side of the engine, im gonna grab a bottle of baby powder this afternoon and test for air leaks, i dont believe it is a misfire...
I just bought an 89 century custom coupe it has had it's fuel pump & filter changed before I got it. The problem is a gas smell after I run it for a while and shut it off. their is no gas smell when its been sitting for awhile.
I have checked the clamps on the filler tube and they needed to be tightened did that. but still has the gas smell. What's causing this ?
I have a 1994 Buick Century Wagon with a 3100 SFI V6 engine that I can't get to fire at all. I have read many posts with the same problem but haven't been able to find a follow up fix from them. My Buick just wouldn't start one day after running fine before. I came to this site and tried some of the suggested troubleshooting and found, while testing for power to fuel pump, that if I jumped from the battery to the gray wire on the fuel pump relay the car would start and run fine. So that rules out any fuel pump problems or fuel filter problems. I then swapped fuel pump relay to a different similar relay on the car and still wouldn't start. I have read on this site about the oil pressure/ fuel pressure switch being a possible cause and I believe I have found that switch. It is in the side of the block toward the front of car and has three wires, (orange, tan and gray) going into it.
I was going to try to jumper the orange to gray but didn't want to do the wrong jump in case of negatively effecting the EMC controller, usually green/white wire? I also heard of the crank shaft sensor located on the back side of block but am not sure of which of three sensors I'm seeing back there to test. I guess first I'm looking for proper jumping procedure. I tried jumping the gray to orange in the fuel pump relay but no good. I get 12 volts at that orange and for a couple of seconds 2 to 3 volts at the green/white wires at the fuel pump relay when ignition is turned on, so when I jump the orange to gray at the relay it should start as it does when I jumper from battery to gray. I had relay apart when I jumpered the orange to gray, do I have to jumper with relay together and use a pin/needle wire jumper so rest of relay wires are connected? The same would apply for jumper testing oil pressure switch and crank shaft sensor? If it's not the switch or sensor then it looks to maybe be the EMC?
I have a 96 Buick Century Special with the 3.1 six cylinder engine. Starting on March 18, 2015 my car has started blowing the Injector Coil fuse any time I take a fast left-hand turn. It never does it during a right-hand turn. I have now replaced the fuse a total of 5 times since March 18.
View 1 Replies1998 Saturn SL2, after I replaced the fuel pump, the pump-in gas hose started leaking. I have replaced this hose 3 times and it still leaks, especially when you stop and keep the car running. After about 10 minutes, the fuel starts shooting out just below the fuel intake hole. What is wrong? What should I do to correct this?
View 2 RepliesWife's 2002 elantra is leaking at the fuel rail pretty badly. Looks like maybe there should have been a hose clamp on it, i can see the indentations on at the rail on the rubber fitting. So i put a hose clamp on it. stopped leaking....just went out a few hours later to check it again, started it up....started leaking same spot.
We are getting a new car in 3-4 months. All i want to do is replace the line from the rail to...the next closest fitting.
Are there any videos? PIctures? Documents how to do this? I've never replaced a fuel line, doesn't seem like it could be hard. Just don't know how those fittings work. I've been known to turn a few wretches here and there.
I have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
View 4 Replies1994 Buick Century 3.1
Fuel pump relay is not powering the fuel pump. I was able at one point to jump the orange wire to the gray wire but it will not even do that now. I know the fuel pump works because I can jump from the battery to the gray wire and it will turn on.
I used a multimeter and tested the volts from the orange wire on the relay to the neg post on the battery and it is only reading about 1.3 volts. Is this normal?
Checked the fuel pump 15a fuse and it is ok. I am getting spark. Could it be the crank sensor? How can I test that? (It is above the start I believe). Could it be the ignition control module? How to test? Location? What else can I test with the multimeter and post back with the results to further diagnose?
I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3L V6. I noticed a hissing sound under the hood with the motor running. The short vacuum hose (about 2 inches) connected at the fuel pressure regulator was loose and leaking. I shut the engine, remove the end of the hose and a little gas (about a teaspoon) came out of the vacuum pipe for awhile and then it stopped.
I tightened (but did not overtighten) the end of the hose with a nylon wire tie. There was no existing clamp on it. The vacuum leak stopped (no more hissing). Now, the car is sometimes hard to start or restart. Do I have a serious problem? Did I do the right thing? Could this be caused by a clogged fuel filter? (it was changed 42000 miles ago).
Buick Century 1987 - 2.8L
Sending unit measures: Empty 9 ohm - Full 88 ohm
Fuel pump working while engine is running or key switch in ON position (working properly).
Issue: Fuel needle fluctuates while car is in movement and the engine stops when the car is going downhill and suddenly is braked (half tank), Is normal this behaviour in this car? Is this car equipped with a 'anti-slosh module'? if yes, where it is located?
I ran over a 18 wheeler tire , it knocked my exhaust a loose & a few days later my transmission started shifting into overdrive at 30 mph.
View 4 RepliesWhen I used to change gears in my car it would feel smooth and precise, but just today when i was shifting in to 2nd, my gears started to feel clunky and like they were getting caught up on something. It feels like I'm not even engaging a gear when i put it into gear. Its so effortless and i don't get that secure feeling that i know i am in gear anymore.
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