Elantra GD (2013+) :: CEL And P2096 Error Code On 1.8L 2013 GT
Aug 12, 2014
I recently got a CEL with a P2096 error code on my 1.8L 2013 Elantra GT auto with 18K miles. This indicates some kind of oxygen sensor discrepancy between the pre- and post-catlyst O2 sensors which could be caused by a bunch of things. I cleared the code and it hasn't returned in a day of driving.
I did a quick internet search and there appears there might be a TSB out for revising the ECU software for this problem, possibly filed under TSB-13-FL-006 or Hyundai bulletin 356015.
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I have a Korean spec 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2L R-eVGT 6AT 4WD. Around a year ago it started to go into limp mode i had it checked and the error code was p0488 (EGR) Throttle Control Circuit A Range / Performance.
It has gradually become more frequent to the extent it goes into limp mode within a a minute or so . so far the dealer has changed the EGR valve, TCM , the whole turbo assembly and it is no different. They have also stripped and cleaned the intake manifold and egr cooler.
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My Downhill Brake Control light came on yellow three times today, Each time I was able to reset it by shutting the engine off/on but after a few minutes, it kept coming back on. I am hoping that it was the result of the cold rainy weather today.
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So tonight I was parking the car next to the wall in front of my garage like always and an orange error light came on to check BSM system what is that? Although, I turned the car off and on it stayed on I took it for a drive down the street and it went away now every time I turn the car on its not there anymore. Is there a malfunction with the computer or something? Car has less than 5k miles ..
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This last May I gave myself a graduation present and got a 2013 Sonata SE. I bought it through my Dad's friend's dealership at a pretty good deal and loved the car for the first few months, then things went South pretty quickly.
I've had more CEL issues with this car than I ever did with my piece of garbage 2000 Grand Cherokee.
The first time the light came on, I brought it to AutoZone who said I needed a new Cannister Close Valve. I then took it to my local Hyundai Dealership (Not my dad's friend's, I recently moved up to Ohio and that dealership was in Alabama) who verified that it was indeed the cannister close valve. They said I didn't need to get it fixed because it actually had nothing to do with the engine, but they gave me the part number should I want to buy it and switch it myself to save a few bucks. I bought the part from them and drove down to visit my family in the summer with the CEL on (who are in Memphis) to have my family's mechanic switch out the part. On my way down I stopped to get gas and, unfortunately for me, the gas hose kept clicking off like the tank was full after a quarter of a gallon, which obviously wasn't right. I brought it to my Memphis Mechanic and had them switch out the part, which they also said would resolve my fueling issue. They said everything was good, but on my short drive home (less than 10 miles from the mechanic) the light came back on. I turned around and my mechanic said he'd look at it. They then told me that I needed to replace a sensor in the EVAP system and that should solve the issue. For the rest of my time in Memphis, and on the drive back up to Ohio, I had no CEL, but I still had the fueling issue, but nowhere near as bad as it used to be. Once I was back in Cincinnati, however, sure enough, that stupid orangish-yellow light appeared back on my dashboard. I took it back to the Hyundai dealership who then wanted to charge me $500 to switch out the charcoal cannister which they were saying was the problem. To my great aggravation, they were unable to tell me that would solve my issue, but that it "should" fix it.
Well, yesterday the CEL popped right back on giving the same codes it's always been giving: P0442 and P0456.
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Check engine light came on while driving home from work. The car seems to be running fine but I got the following codes p2195, p0420, p2096. I have a 2006 elantra with 184000 miles. Should I just replace the upstream oxygen sensor or is there a more likely problem? I rather not spend the money if this combination of codes is likely has a different cause but replacing the sensor appears to be the quickest and easiest solution.
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I have an 05 accent that overheats on short rides, it smells of antifreeze when you pop the hood. There are no visible leaks, and the antifreeze level is good.
Also the check engine light is on and is outputting a P2096 code.
I'm stumped as to what this problem could be, at first I was thinking thermostat or some kind of clog or something like that, now I'm not so sure.
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Got a cel yesterday, got it checked out it read a P2096 fault code. The car runs fine, cleared the code it came back later in the day.
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This is in regards to a 2007 Accent 111k miles, about 3 weeks or so .. I had a p0420 code, and replaced the downstream o2 sensor, and the CEL went off, and gas mileage went up. Now today I got p2096 code. Seems to mirror the p0420 code. So now I am thinking the catalytic converter.
So my questions are:
There are two catalytic converters right? one would be the exhaust manifold and the other would be half way through the exhaust system after the two o2 sensors?
Which should be replaced in regards to p2096?
Could anything else be causing this code?
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IHeart Radio has stopped working. Getting a connectivity error. Pandora works great.
Verizon Samsung S5 and a 2014 ES 300h. Phone has Android 4.4.4 with the latest Lexus Enform app. I've deleted and repaired the bluetooth connection and reloaded the Lexus app on my phone.
Also, bluetooth will randomly disconnect when making calls occasionally.
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I purchased a Bluetooth ODB II scanner off of Amazon which had all positive reviews, plugged it into my 2013 Prius this AM and the car immediately started beeping with the "Check Hybrid System Stop The Vehicle In A Safe Place" error. The car is functioning just fine but I'm concerned.. Is this normal? Should I have not plugged it in while the engine was on? I want to see if I can clear the error but I'm afraid to plug the module in again...
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So with all of the snow we've been having in the north east this is usually an error message I get almost every week. Normally this is due to the front sonar sensors being covered in ice or snow and will go away once it melts when I'm parked in the garage or is washed off.
However the past few days, I've had the car washed a few times to make sure the salt is off of the sonar on the front bumper but I'm still getting the error message stating to check the front sonar. If I leave the park assist on it works for the sides but not the front and the error message still stays on the screen. I've hand-washed the sonar sensors several times and 'massaged' them in place to maybe break up some ice behind the bumper or get the sensor to work but I've gotten nothing. Upon further inspection, one of the sensors has a deep scratch in it to where you can see past the paint of the car slightly.
I'm really not looking forward to taking the car to the dealer to have them look at the sensor because they will most likely charge me a ton. I saw a few other posts on the forums about the LS400 from '99-'00 having a similar issue and it cost them $550 to get it fixed. Obviously it's not the same car but I'm expecting a similar quote. I'm assuming the paint scratch is what is causing the issue as another post for the LS mentioned the same thing and said they had to scratch all the paint off of the sensor to make it work again.
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In my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.
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My truck ('10 4x4 w/5.4l, 65k miles) gave a P2096 this past weekend. Cleared it and drove around for a while. Today it threw the same code. No other codes present, just P2096.
I did look under the truck and it seems pretty easy to get to the two sensors. Is it worth swapping them to see if the code changes to the other side?
Truck idles and accelerates just fine. Fuel mileage seems to be down a bit, but the air filter is very dirty and I will be replacing that this week.
I have seen you can check the sensor by heating it and measuring the voltage. Seems easy enough to do, but do you create other problems from that?
I did notice that the connector to the mass air flow sensor is cracked, probably from checking the air filter. I would think if that was the issue it would be showing some MAF code.
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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I just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
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Car Throwing This Code ... P2096 Post Fuel Trim Too Lean-B1 ...
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Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
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I am currently about 1700 miles into what is a, planned, 11,000 mile road trip up to Alaska and back to SC. The first three days of driving everything was fine and I was getting 33 MPG. Today my MPG dropped down to 28 and in the evening my check engine light came on. The folks at PepBoys told me it was P0139 which I understand has to do with oxygen sensors and would affect my vehicle gas consumption.
If I drive about 21 hrs (Denver to Portland OR) to get to a place where I have a trusted mechanic and more free time, will it be bad for the car/engine?
Driving: Elantra GLS, 2003. Around 53k miles on it. Just replaced the tires last week as well as all belts (including timing). A few years ago I recall a similar error and my mechanic had me take the car to a muffler shop to cut something out and reweld it. yeah, I have forgotten the details.
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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