Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 - Intermittent Starting / Crank But Will Not Turn Over
Oct 13, 2015
About 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
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I have been struggling with an intermittent no crank situation. I finally got stuck and crawled under the car and found the wire to the solenoid has been repaired (poorly) 2X in the past. Is it possible to get this harness as a spare part? And if so, how can I find the part number? 2012 Passat 2.5 SE
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Having intermittent starting on Elantra 2013 Key start model ? After over-nite car will not crank only dash lights come on and on third try (after overhead lights out) it starts ok ? I measured my battery after 6 hrs at 35 degree F , I see 12.4 vlts and about 0.09a draw in main neg cable (car not running). Brand new battery on 2/17 - had same trouble when original battery was in . dealer says all electrical DTC ok Batt / alternator charging etc.
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So in the past my car has sputtered when starting, but always did fire up. The other morning it started and died and wouldn't run. It turned over, voltage was good, but just cranked and cranked. I let it sit a couple of minutes and tapped the pedal and eventually it reluctantly started. I have 114K now so I'm out of warranty. It has run fine the last couple of days.
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I've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
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Yesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
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I just got into my 2012 GLS Elantra and tried firing it up, and the engine will turn over, but wont start. Power windows, radio, lights, everything works. Earlier in the day, I moved the car from the garage to the driveway and turned it off about 30 seconds after I turned it on..
I've read things from checking the sparks to the fuel pump..is it possible that it could be flooded? I am leaving it alone right now and I plan to try to fire it up in an hour or so with the accelerator fully pressed down in case this is the case, hopefully that does the trick..
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I've owned my 2012 sonata 4 cylinder since new. It now has 54k and all of a sudden tonight it is hard starting. I drove it to my buddies to put my snow tires on and after I was done I went to start it and it cranked over a bunch before starting. It's not slow like a battery. Part way home the check engine light came on. I came home disconnected the battery. Tightened the gas cap just in case and tried starting it again after 1/2 hour. Still cranked a bunch before it started. When it starts it idles smooth still. When I give it gas from idle it sputters a bit then revs right up.
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has intermittent starting problems. It doesn’t matter if the engine is cold, warm, or hot, time of day, or weather conditions. The car makes no sound and does not turn over when you try to start it. The idiot lights come on but no indication of the problem. The dealer “thinks” it’s the starter but not sure. They won’t replace the starter (#600.00) unless they are absolutely sure that’s the problem. The dealer waived the $150.00 diagnostic fee and concluded the vehicle is ok at this time.They started the vehicle 20 – 30 times without a problem.
Dealers notes on service report were: “Performed GRB electrical system test. The battery, starter and charging system all passed. They checked the A/C relay and is OK. Checked battery and starter connections and they are all ok. Warmed engine to normal operating temp and checked ECT voltage with HDS AIT is reading .6 volts which is in spec. Vehicle is ok at this time”.
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About 6 weeks ago I became the proud owner of an '88 240 wagon with ~ 235,000 miles.
When turning the key over to start Lucy (that's her name) most times she will crank for 3 to 5 seconds before indeed starting. I can avoid those 3 to 5 excruciatingly long seconds if I let her crank for a time or two then let her rest for a second - after that she will start up immediately when I turn the key again. This situation happens probably 14 times out of 15. The 15th she will start like a dream the first time. I have had the battery tested (although I could not find a date on the battery and the previous owner did not know when it was purchased), and I have completed a full tune up (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) among other maintenance issues as well.
Attached File(s)
Lucy.JPG ( 3.4MB )
Lucy_Under_the_Hood.JPG ( 3.87MB )
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So, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?
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I have a 2006 F150 STX auto trans with the 4.2L V6 that has been having intermittent starting problems. It has 98,000 miles on it. It will start fine 99% of the time but sometimes when I turn the key the starter will grind once or twice then it can go a few weeks with out doing it at all. Then also sometimes it will crank turning over for several seconds but wont start. Then it starts fine the rest of the time. This has happened several times but only happens once every few weeks or so. Just trying to see if it needs a new starter or if its something else. It has a new battery.
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Yesterday I was on a pretty long trip and stopped off the interstate to grab some food. My truck is really loud so I always shut my engine off at the drive-thru. When I went to crack it back up everything lit up but when I turned the key nothing happened. I had the truck towed home and I put a new starter on it. Still nothing.....
Well after further investigating where the positive wire that comes from the starter to the battery was broken at the battery post. Don't know how the heck that happened but I fixed it back to factory condition but still nothing. I'm at a complete loss. I checked all fuses and everything looks good.
When I turn the key everything lights up, then turn to crank it and nothing but a slight sound coming from those square silver things in the fuse panel under the steering wheel.
2007 f250 PSD with to many extras to list
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My 2010 has the intermittent noise when starting in the cold. Brought car to dealer with printout of the TSB from December and they will not repair it unless they duplicate the noise. Also I read about a rear motor mount to be replaced.
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We've got a 2011 Prius with a little over 24k miles on it . For the last few months we've been having issues with it starting. First I thought the remote barriers were dying so I replaced them , I thought my wife might have been trying to start it incorrectly till the problem happened to me a few weeks ago. What happens is you try to start it (foot on brake, press power button) and all the warming lights pop up , radio turns on , navigation turns on but car doesn't start. This morning it happend just once , yesterday I had to try it maybe 10x before it finally started up. The dealership had it last Saturday and of course it started every time for them and they couldn't duplicate the problem , they also said they ran whatever tests they do on it and it didn't turn up a problem. FWIW we had the software recall update done in June.
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My 2010 Ford Flex is not starting intermittently 4 times since Aug. 31, 2015 always in the morning, the lights and seat move but it will not crank. When we take it to the dealer after towing, it works fine this happened 8/31, 9/3, 9/10 and 9/16 but after 5 mins it started on 9/16 called and took it back to dealer to see if the problem repeats they replaced the battery on Aug. 31 and put in a starter relay on Sept. 10th even though they did not think that was the issue and it isn't. The car is currently at the dealer to see if this happens in their care I have a video from 9/10 showing what is going on when we try to start it with both keys this happens in the morning, the dealership told me to start it in neutral and that did not work as well. I am afraid to drive it far not knowing if it will start or not but this only has happened in the morning before work.
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What could possibly be wrong with my new 2012 Elentra GLS. When i stop at red lights or at stop signs the car starts to shake a bit. The vibrations can be felt in the cabin specially around the dash board area. I wouldn't have noticed it if it was same on all stops, however, it seems intermittent. The car would be dead quite and motion less on one red light while on the other I can clearly feel the vibrations. I have taken it up with the dealership and mechanics there are clueless about it. One reason given was that it could be the inline 4 engine causing that vibration, or, a car system kicking in e.g. air con. that would cause stress on the engine.. i frankly thought it could be caused due to clutch not engaging properly..
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I have had some clunking in the front end for a couple months now. It is intermittent and seems to show up mostly in cold weather at startup. It is still there in warmer weather, but it is much harder to replicate and occurs less. Sometimes it also sounds like the dash is rattling. I have felt around on the dash while the noise is present, and nothing appears to be vibrating. Once the car warms up, issues seem to go away. I have taken it to the dealership which cannot find a problem, and I have not been able to replicate the issue for them. Sway bar links have been replaced due to being worn out, but did not fix the above issue.
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I have a 2016 Elantra Sport which I purchased in Sept. I have noticed an intermittent beeping (5-10 min. apart) when the car is stopped, not running, in my garage. Can't find anything in the manual about it. Is this a security warning, or what?
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I have this sprinter cargo van and i can't find the car battery, but i found a car battery inside the actual vehicle with a wire going towards the engine,...... It's a 2012 and the car starts up but its starting to hesitate when i try turning it on ..... and there is nothing hooked up to the negative side of the battery.... I'm wondering if this is safe, and if i ever need to jump start it, how would i do it?........ don't know if the negative side of the battery should have something hooked up to it or not .....
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For me it happens after I have driven the car for a while (engine is up to temp). I will turn the car off to go into a store or something. Then when I drive off again the revs will hang for several seconds. When this happens without my noticing it obviously makes for a violent shift into second gear. Once it does it 1 occasional rev hang car behaves normally. I know the revs drop slower when the engine is cold, but this is something totally different.
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