Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Intermittent Power Loss While Starting
Oct 18, 2016
I've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
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Bought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
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About 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
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I’m having an issue with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra cutting off, and what to check for next. Basically I have a very intermittent issue where the car seems to lose electrical power for a split second (or possibly total loss of gas – as in, it doesn’t seem to be misfiring, just seems to totally lose all power). If it happens when I first start the car up, the car will start up for a second and then cut off. It also happens randomly when driving at any speed, and when it happens while driving, it just goes out for a split second, and then cuts back on and I can keep driving, so the RPMs Rev up for a second as a result when it kicks back on, but then goes back to normal. But it is completely intermittent, as in, some days it will not do it at all on my 30-min drive to work. I even went a whole week without it happening. But this week it has come back. Some days it will do it 3 times, some days 20 times. Some days its hard to get my car started, because it keeps cutting off when I start it. But so far after I try around 5-10 times it will start up and keep going. Also, this may indicate nothing, but when it goes out for that split second, I can hear a click, or electrical sounding click coming from the dash/instrument panel area. Which is what makes it seem electrical in nature, but I could be wrong, could be a spark/gas thing.
This has been happening it seems no matter what the weather is outside (its been anywhere from the 20s to 60s here in the last few weeks) and it doesn’t seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Also, so far the check engine light has not come on, so it makes me think it might not be a sensor, since those will usually trigger the light when they start going bad. Also, when the car is running, it runs perfect. Idles perfect, drives perfect, no misfires, no hesitation, etc. The ONLY problem is it cutting out. Also, it doesn’t seem to matter if the fuel tank is full or half empty. I had read in one place that if the vapor recovery charcoal canister gets full of gas, it will vent liquid fuel instead of vapor, which can result in car cutting off or running rough, but this usually only happens when fuel tank is full. So I suppose it could be this, but I doubt it.The car has 180k miles. Iridium plugs have 60k on them. Wires have 60k on them. Original fuel pump and fuel filter. I wouldn’t think it would be the filter since when it runs it runs perfect. I guess could possibly be the pump having an intermittent issue. Trying to avoid replacing that for now unless I knew it was the problem.
What I’ve done so far:
•I made sure the battery cables are tight and clean at the connection
•I checked as many grounds as I could find, they all seem good
•Alternator puts out a perfect amount of voltage
•I swapped the ECU main relay and fuse with another relay and fuse in the fuse box that were identical
•I swapped the Fuel Pump relay with an identical one in the box
•I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor
•I cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor (though it looked spotless)
•I looked around for any vacuum hoses that were disconnected. Didn’t find any
•I’ve tried resetting the ECU (unplug battery for a while) and I thought that fixed it at first, but then it came back a few days later. And now resetting ECU seems to have no effect.
Some possibilities of what it could be:
•Fuel pump intermittent issue?
•Camshaft position sensor?
•ECU problem?
•Catalytic convertor going bad?
•Some other sensor going bad?
•Possibly the vapor recovery charcoal canister is full of fuel as described above
•ignition coils – but I doubt it since you’d usually get a misfire/engine light when those go bad (from experience)
•Fuel pressure regulator – but I doubt it, based on the symptoms. Seems like I’d have other symptoms.
I’m not convinced of any of these above, and some of them I wouldn’t know how to check (like for a bad ECU). What it might be? Getting nervous driving 75mph on the interstate with someone behind me and the car cutting out. Luckily so far it doesn’t cut completely off when I’m up to speed with someone behind me!
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My 2013 Elantra is experiencing intermittent power shorts where all power (electrical is lost). Had to open door with manual key; clock resets and radio pre-sets lost.
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My 2014 Elantra Limited Automatic 1.8 has just developed a problem tonight. I was backing up my driveway, when the car began shaking, making a grumbling sound, and felt like it lost power for a second. I pulled out of my driveway and tried backing up again about 5 more times, and it kept on repeating the problem. The car was leaking what appeared to be a clear fluid which stained the garage floor. It drives fine going forward, and only has 4,000 miles.
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Having issues with a 2014 shutting down. Was at a stop light the other day and car completely lost power and shut down. When this happened oil, engine, and battery light came on. Once I parked car and turned off, it restarted. The dealership acted like I had no idea what I was talking about and would like to have some information when I take it back to have this problem corrected the car is not even 2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.
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Having intermittent starting on Elantra 2013 Key start model ? After over-nite car will not crank only dash lights come on and on third try (after overhead lights out) it starts ok ? I measured my battery after 6 hrs at 35 degree F , I see 12.4 vlts and about 0.09a draw in main neg cable (car not running). Brand new battery on 2/17 - had same trouble when original battery was in . dealer says all electrical DTC ok Batt / alternator charging etc.
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My 1991 mini-motorhome, built on a Toyota pickup chassis with the v-6 engine & 5-speed recently developed a "hiccup" immediately after having the ignition distributor, rotor & wires replaced along with new belts, hoses, valve adjustment, etc. No work was done on the fuel system. Every once in a while (15 minutes to an hour or more, never more frequently) the engine will lose power for about 1/4 of a second, followed by a "thunk" as the slack in the drive train is taken up. It's easy to ignore except when I'm laboring up a mountain in third gear when the "thunk" becomes an alarming "bang". Other than that, it runs beautifully. Check engine light is not on. I haven't been able to associate the hiccup with load, speed, temperature, or anything else. My mechanic has no idea what it could be, and it didn't misbehave when he drove it. What's going on?
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I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
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My 2010 has the intermittent noise when starting in the cold. Brought car to dealer with printout of the TSB from December and they will not repair it unless they duplicate the noise. Also I read about a rear motor mount to be replaced.
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I have a 2000 Excursion. This weekend, I noticed some intermittent failure of the power steering where it seemed like the pump was not engaging and then would all of the sudden. Deciding to try to head off a failure, I got a reman unit from Oreilly and installed it this morning. It was fine when I tested, had good brakes and went locked to lock quietly without fuss. Let the house and within a mile, I lost steering and brake assist. I stopped and turned around, but what I am noticing is that at idle, I have no power steering, but when the RPM's are up, I do.
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Intermittent loss of power (could be describe momentarily stuttering) with momentary illumination of the check engine soon light. Its only happened a couple of times. Maybe about a year ago (I changed the fuel filter after it occurred). It occurred again about a month ago and then again yesterday. About a month ago I had a friend with a scanner look at the codes and he said there was only one and it was for low fuel pressure. Its been maybe 5k since I changed the fuel filter.
The truck is driven intermittently, maybe 5k or 6k a year, and usually parked with a full tank of fuel. What areas I should look at to correct this? I got my stock 2001 F350 4x4 manual transmission in 2004 with about 157k miles. Today I've got about 228k miles.
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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We've got a 2011 Prius with a little over 24k miles on it . For the last few months we've been having issues with it starting. First I thought the remote barriers were dying so I replaced them , I thought my wife might have been trying to start it incorrectly till the problem happened to me a few weeks ago. What happens is you try to start it (foot on brake, press power button) and all the warming lights pop up , radio turns on , navigation turns on but car doesn't start. This morning it happend just once , yesterday I had to try it maybe 10x before it finally started up. The dealership had it last Saturday and of course it started every time for them and they couldn't duplicate the problem , they also said they ran whatever tests they do on it and it didn't turn up a problem. FWIW we had the software recall update done in June.
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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2001 1.8T ... using oil 500ml/100km
- Blowing smoke-intermittent
- Power loss-intermittent
Some jelly white stuff in oil may not be related... Service techs looking at turbo....
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My 01 VW Jetta with 181690 miles started having intermittent loss of power a year ago:
1) it never conks out;
2) it loses power on the highway at 70 or in town at 25;
3) engine is usually hot, about an hour into a trip, but now does it cold, too;
4) weather doesn't matter: dry or wet;
5) check engine light flashes while it happens
6) it feels like it's running out of gas but isn't.
Mechanics have tried the following: Note: every time I brought it in to be looked at, the symptoms above were happening :
1) March 2013: replaced coil pack and it ran fine until Sep;
2) Sep 2013: ran Dx on check engine light: "arching all over the place" so replace spark plug wires;
3) Dec 2013: got oil changed
4) Jan 2014: ran Dx and was told crack in piston;
5) Jan 2014: got second opinion and told wrong spark plugs were used (single electrode vs triple electrode)-replaced all spark plugs; got car inspected and had oil changed again as it was dirty;
6) Feb 2014 mechanic is stumped, but found an article about clean oil and changed the oil again. Oil was down almost a quart.
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Alright, my '06 SV6 AWD has a major problem...I'm about to blow it up! But seriously, I've had an issue for a few weeks now with intermittent acceleration/hesitation problems. Basically it started as a rare occurrence and is happening more often now. Yesterday, it did it consistently for 20 minutes on one trip around town. 1 hour later, it didn't happen noticeably at all on the way home. It happens while accelerating, usually from a stop, but also sometimes when cruising at highway speeds.
The car does not stall or stumble. Everything sounds fine and smooth, but when accelerating from a stop, the car will stop accelerating and the speed slowly drops off. Pushing the accelerator down further to the floor does nothing for several seconds, then the power returns and the car responds to whatever position the pedal is in. If you haven't pushed further it continues accelerating where you left off. If you've got it to the floor, it takes off quickly. When cruising at speed, you don't notice anything until you start slowing down, and the pedal reacts the same way. NOTE: The engine does not rev up when this is happening. It's not like the tranny is slipping.
It really seems like a fuel delivery problem and not transmission. It has all the normal symptoms of a failing pump. And about 2 months ago, I had the fuse for the fuel pump melt (not blow). These problems didn't happen immediately after, but they did happen a few weeks after that.
That said, I have noticed that when cruising I occasionally hear a light clunking noise that sounds like the rear diff engaging. I assume this is just due to play in the drive train. I also had to recently do the expensive versatrack fluid flush and fill to get rid of the diff groan. But I still feel like it's probably fuel related because the engine doesn't rev up.
Here's what I've done so far:
1. Checked the wires at the problematic C305 connector. I already had to completely redo that connector several years ago as the PO had removed the connector and directly twisted all wires together covered the with tape, and filled hole with silicon. BTW, GM does sell all of those harnesses with length of wire, connectors, and heat shrink covers for reasonable $$. Anyway, found 2 wires with insulation slightly shaved off. Neither was for the fuel pump, everything else still looked good.
2. Checked voltage at the gray fuel pump wire just after the new harness (about a foot before the fuel pump). And checked the ground at the same location. Haven't checked at pump connector because I don't want to drop tank just yet. Both were fine with almost no resistance on power between that location back to the fuse box. So, it doesn't look like a bad or shorted wire unless it is in that short length up to the fuel pump that I cannot access w/o dropping the tank.
3. Checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The pressure when primed and idling is a consistent 60-62 psi. I know the manual states 60psi as the max. Maybe this has something to do with it?? Perhaps my cheap actron pressure guage is a bit off or perhaps the pressure regulator is bad. Could this cause the issue.
4. Checked for DTC's with code reader. No active or pending codes.
The other things I think could be the cause based on internet research:
1. Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor
2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
3. PCM
4. O2 sensor
The problem is that all of those things tend to set a DTC from what I've read. I still think the fuel pump us going bad and the pressure was fine because the problem is intermittent. I just don't want to spend the $$ on a new pump to find out it was something else.
Tomorrow, I will have access to a scanner that can log 10 seconds of data from the computers while driving. I think that might shed some light if I can get the problem to happen when recording. I'm not familiar with fuel trims and the lot.
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I have a 2001 T&C, 3.3L, 4-Speed tranny and around 116K Miles. On occasion, I totally lose power steering for about a second or two. It acts like the engine has stalled and I have to muscle the steering wheel. There no belt squealing, no pump noise, and the serpentine belt is relatively new. PS Fluid level is good. It seems to happen at idle RPM.
Of all the caravans I've had, this is a first.
Now, I'm OK with it as long as I don't let anyone else drive it. I know what to expect, and I can muscle the steering when necessary. Once this happened to my on a highway offramp and I was able to control it with no problems. I suspect it is a problem with the rack, maybe?
My question is this: Is this an indication of something going terribly bad, like the total loss of steering control?
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I bought my outback a few months ago from a dealer/mechanic who had fixed the car after it was totaled. So it has a reconstructed title, but it was hit in the back, so all the engine parts were unaffected by the crash. Since I have had the car I have experienced intermittent loss of power steering ability. Sometimes it's nearly impossible to parallel park or turn a corner gracefully, and other times, within the same short trip, the steering will be completely fine and smooth. I have had the issue looked at about three times now by different mechanics. Each time they have either replaced or tightened the belt, which temporarily fixes the problem. But within a few weeks it always comes back. Is there something not keeping the belt tight, or could the issue actually be in the power steering pump?
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