Elantra GD (2013+) :: Intermittent Starting / Car Will Not Crank Only Dash Lights Come On
Mar 10, 2014
Having intermittent starting on Elantra 2013 Key start model ? After over-nite car will not crank only dash lights come on and on third try (after overhead lights out) it starts ok ? I measured my battery after 6 hrs at 35 degree F , I see 12.4 vlts and about 0.09a draw in main neg cable (car not running). Brand new battery on 2/17 - had same trouble when original battery was in . dealer says all electrical DTC ok Batt / alternator charging etc.
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About 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
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I have Holden Rodeo, am assuming these are very similar cars if not the same. Our 2004 Rodeo is having intermittent trouble starting, sometimes when the key is turned it is dead, no clicking noise, all lights on dash are on and engine light flashing. it goes from being dead to a short turning of engine, eventually it will turn over but may have trouble firing. the next time it will start perfectly.
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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I have been struggling with an intermittent no crank situation. I finally got stuck and crawled under the car and found the wire to the solenoid has been repaired (poorly) 2X in the past. Is it possible to get this harness as a spare part? And if so, how can I find the part number? 2012 Passat 2.5 SE
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So in the past my car has sputtered when starting, but always did fire up. The other morning it started and died and wouldn't run. It turned over, voltage was good, but just cranked and cranked. I let it sit a couple of minutes and tapped the pedal and eventually it reluctantly started. I have 114K now so I'm out of warranty. It has run fine the last couple of days.
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My outback started giving me intermittent extended crank starting problems on cold engine starts a few months ago. I brought it in first to repair shop and then dealership. Battery replaced, all systems checked out, computer update, camshaft sensor shim, and still I have the problem. What this could be?
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I've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
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I have a 2013 GS, RWD. 33k miles. This is my third Lexus. Wife owns an 05 GX that we will drive till it dies. Had a 2010 RX also. The problem I'm about to describe occurred on the RX and now this GS which makes me crazy. The bottom line is that I have an intermittent noise that comes from the center of my dash. It sounds like someone is clicking a PC mouse very, very fast. It sounds like it is coming from behind the navigation. I've had it to the dealer multiple times and gone all the way to corporate.
The problem is that I have a Murphy's Law situation in that it doesn't occur on demand. I've even sent them a video of the noise but since they don't hear it themselves they won't touch my dash to fix it. Since it had this same noise now on two different vehicles I know it is a manufacturer problem and not just one vehicle. Both cars have navigation.
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Key icon on dash at times = low fob battery? No low battery warning print lit up. Also so happened a couple times on my GS.
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Been having an issue with my gt manual trans cranking but not starting. It will start up the second attempt every time. I have the touch and go package. I thought it was because I had low fuel level the first couple times it happened. however, now I've noticed it at 3/4 of a tank and on level ground.
I took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything. They even said they talked to a tech assist line and they had no known issues of this.
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We've got a 2011 Prius with a little over 24k miles on it . For the last few months we've been having issues with it starting. First I thought the remote barriers were dying so I replaced them , I thought my wife might have been trying to start it incorrectly till the problem happened to me a few weeks ago. What happens is you try to start it (foot on brake, press power button) and all the warming lights pop up , radio turns on , navigation turns on but car doesn't start. This morning it happend just once , yesterday I had to try it maybe 10x before it finally started up. The dealership had it last Saturday and of course it started every time for them and they couldn't duplicate the problem , they also said they ran whatever tests they do on it and it didn't turn up a problem. FWIW we had the software recall update done in June.
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I have a trunk light that seems to work only half the time.... maybe less. It is a 2013 elantra limited and i have brought it to the dealership and had them look at it and was told that it worked for them every time.... would having stuff in the trunk cause an issue, possibly they emptied it out and i keep stuff in it? Looking for a wiring schematic or know where or how the switch operates?
(Also was intermittent with stock bulbs and replaced with the exledusa 6k LED's and still same issue... should i take that out as well and put stock light back in when going to the dealership incase they try to blame it on the LED? can they?)
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My 2013 Elantra is experiencing intermittent power shorts where all power (electrical is lost). Had to open door with manual key; clock resets and radio pre-sets lost.
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My 2010 Ford Flex is not starting intermittently 4 times since Aug. 31, 2015 always in the morning, the lights and seat move but it will not crank. When we take it to the dealer after towing, it works fine this happened 8/31, 9/3, 9/10 and 9/16 but after 5 mins it started on 9/16 called and took it back to dealer to see if the problem repeats they replaced the battery on Aug. 31 and put in a starter relay on Sept. 10th even though they did not think that was the issue and it isn't. The car is currently at the dealer to see if this happens in their care I have a video from 9/10 showing what is going on when we try to start it with both keys this happens in the morning, the dealership told me to start it in neutral and that did not work as well. I am afraid to drive it far not knowing if it will start or not but this only has happened in the morning before work.
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2013 Elantra (40k miles) just started having intermittent high engine rev while driving at low speeds (30-40 MPH). The rev last 1-3 seconds no engine codes showing up. The transmission does not feel like it is slipping.....
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I drove to work yesterday, all was fine. Got in the car at lunch time and NO START!! No "parallel" start!!! the car "wakes up", the wheel and tranny unlock, all the dash lights activate but the starter will not crank!!. I did hear 4 or 5 clicks coming from under the car on the first attempt but none after, this morning I heard the same clicks in the first start attempt then nothing after. Here is a scan:
Code:
Thursday,10,July,2014,14:01:01:08208
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0
Data version: 20140212
[Code] .....
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Our 2002 1.8t wagon has developed an intermittent "no crank" issue. All dash lights operate as normal, but when you turn the key to crank, it doesn't. The dash lights change, as if it were cranking, but what it seems like is that the clutch lockout is not engaged - ie, it acts just like you are not pressing the clutch. But, you are.
I can't seem to find any consistent thing that causes it to start - I've tried quite a few things:
- stomping on the floor by the CCM module.
- jamming down the clutch
- pumping the clutch.
One thing, (i.e., it worked once) was cranking around on the steering wheel. Anyway, after half-a-dozen or a dozen tries, all while whacking aound on various parts of the car, it will eventually start. If you turn off the car, it will start right back up again.
So, this might be able to be described as a "cold" issue, but that's not entirely confirmed too. It's my wife's car, and when she tries to go somewhere with a 2yo and a 5 yo, and the car won't start. The obvious possible things are the clutch lockout relay, the ignition switch, perhaps the CCM - but there's no wetness on the floor or anything. Any easy way to check the clutch lockout? The dash makes it pretty impossible to get under there.
I should add, no MIL, no OBD codes. Don't have a vagcom, just a regular obd2 scanner.
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Yesterday I was on a pretty long trip and stopped off the interstate to grab some food. My truck is really loud so I always shut my engine off at the drive-thru. When I went to crack it back up everything lit up but when I turned the key nothing happened. I had the truck towed home and I put a new starter on it. Still nothing.....
Well after further investigating where the positive wire that comes from the starter to the battery was broken at the battery post. Don't know how the heck that happened but I fixed it back to factory condition but still nothing. I'm at a complete loss. I checked all fuses and everything looks good.
When I turn the key everything lights up, then turn to crank it and nothing but a slight sound coming from those square silver things in the fuse panel under the steering wheel.
2007 f250 PSD with to many extras to list
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This hot blond was stranded at the store's parking lot. Her VW had a dead battery I jump started it for her. When I connected the cables, my alternator was whining very loud.
Did I damage my alternator or did I put too much load on it? When I heard the whine, I pressed the accelerator then told her to start her car. Success but I am worried I shortened the life of the alternator.
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Problem started within the last 2 days. Get in the car, insert key, turn to start car but the starter doesn't crank. All dash lights are on and I hear a clik when I turn the ignition key. Try it a couple of times and it finally starts. Here are the things I've tested:
1. Battery voltage reads 12.86V. Terminals clean.
2. I disconnected the ignition lead on the starter and connected a voltmeter between the ignition terminal and ground. Turned the key a dozen times and every time it read 12.4V. I'm thinking it may be the starter.
3. Remover starter and took it to a local auto part shop for testing. They say it works fine.
Now I am kinda stuck. I don't think it is the neutral safety switch as I saw 12V each time I turned the ignition. Nothing is completely ruled out yet. I suppose it still could be the safety switch
So I bought a new starter but I'm hesitant to put it in as I'm not sure that is the problem and want to be able to return it if necessary.
Put the old starter back in as I don't completely trust the part store testing. After everything assembled, I turned the ignition and no joy. Tried it a couple of more times and it started.
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