So in the past my car has sputtered when starting, but always did fire up. The other morning it started and died and wouldn't run. It turned over, voltage was good, but just cranked and cranked. I let it sit a couple of minutes and tapped the pedal and eventually it reluctantly started. I have 114K now so I'm out of warranty. It has run fine the last couple of days.
View 11 RepliesAbout 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
I had this issue a few times during summertime and now its winter. I have tried used STP Fuel Moisture Removal, but it seems to work a bit.
However this morning the same symptom happened again, crank the engine over in -4 Degrees *C Temperature. Engine fires but probably on two out of four pistons... rpm gauge is going up and down not stable.
I corrected this by shutting the engine off by turning the Key to position off. Then I cranked it a second time, and the same thing was happening.... sputtering.... I added a bit of throttle to get the Engine to work out the bad gas and or water in the fuel lines.
Question: Should I have let the engine idle or add the throttle to the engine?
Having intermittent starting on Elantra 2013 Key start model ? After over-nite car will not crank only dash lights come on and on third try (after overhead lights out) it starts ok ? I measured my battery after 6 hrs at 35 degree F , I see 12.4 vlts and about 0.09a draw in main neg cable (car not running). Brand new battery on 2/17 - had same trouble when original battery was in . dealer says all electrical DTC ok Batt / alternator charging etc.
View 8 RepliesYesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
View 3 RepliesI'm working on a 03 Toyota matrix base 1.8. it died on the road and now will crank and sputter a little but that's all. its getting good spark, not sure about injector pulse but I do smell fuel after cranking. I have also checked the timing chain it is tight but didn't try lining things up to check if it skipped. Seems to have good compression but didn't have a gauge on me. Also tried adding fuel and it wouldn't kick off of that. I'm thinking crank or cam sensor but don't have a scope to test and don't know how else to check them.
View 10 RepliesOccasionally, on hot days, I go out to the car for lunch and it doesn't want to start. Crank it for like 5 seconds, let it sit, then crank it again and it will "sputter" and kick in. No CELs, no errors that I can find with VCDS.
My door switch is not the problem (the MFD shows the open door, and I am hearing the fuel pump prime).
I do seem to notice it more if my gas tank is less than half full, possibly needs to be lower than that (around a quarter).
Once it's running, it runs fine. I put in new plugs about 5k ago. Car has just over 50,000 miles on it.
It seems like lack of fuel delivery, but I'm not sure why. When the pump primes, could it just pushing vapor up the lines rather than actual fuel? (How would this even happen?) How often is the fuel filter supposed to be replaced?
One other thing to note - once or twice when it was VERY cold (sub zero F), the gas gauge got wonky like something was wrong with my sending unit. It read zero when it had read 1/2 earlier in the day. Haven't had any other issues with it that I can remember. Are the sending unit and pump one piece on this car, perhaps mine just needs to be replaced? (Don't have the Bentley handy right now to check.)
In my manual on page 5-25, it says:
A click sound may be heard in the engine compartment when the vehicle begins to move after the engine is started. These conditions are normal and
indicate that the anti-lock brake system is functioning properly.
Every time I first hit 20 mph after starting my car, I hear what sounds like an aluminum pop/soda can getting crushed. It does not sound like a 'click', it's much more harsh.
I got the HID kit from DDM tuning and suffer from issues with them working fine while the car is off but flickering and turning off when I start my car. I just got the error code eliminators to see if it eliminates the problem. The ECE's need to be plugged in correctly or else they can "pop" and be useless. How to tell the polarity of the wiring harness for the headlights?
View 6 RepliesPast few mornings, I had a bit of trouble starting my 2002 Passat V6 (60K miles); car would start, and sputter. After a few times of this, the car would eventually turn over, and would be a little rough once I put it in gear for the first few hundred feet or so.
Brought it up to North Penn VW in Colmar, and the service tech said it had to do with the ethanol in fuel settling to the bottom of the tank, and not being potent enough to fire the engine, and normal acceleration would be enough to burn this stuff out of the lines and/or where the gas and ethanol would mix.
This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, the Jeep had some trouble starting. It would crank and turn over and then sputter out. I tried it again and it did the same thing. After letting it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran fine. No warning lights or anything on the dashboard and nothing that seemed unusual. A couple days later, my wife noticed a small pool of pink fluid on the floor of the garage where my Jeep parks.
So I took the Jeep in to get it looked at. They said there was a leak in the coolant line as well as the pinion system, both of which they repaired. Since then, the Jeep has done this 3 more times, usually from a warm start. If it's been sitting for a few hours, it starts without a problem. But if I'm running errands, then the third time I try to start it, it will fail until I let it sit for a couple minutes. Then it will finally start up. What it could be before I take it back to the mechanic?
I've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
I just purchased my new Elantra 2 weeks ago. A few days later, just after I started it first thing in the morning, it began making a loud flapping noise (seemed to be coming from under the hood). It's been doing it every morning since. The dealership said they couldn't hear anything unusual (after keeping it overnight, then starting it up first thing the next morning).
View 1 RepliesI've only had the car a month, and it's happened maybe three times now. I turn the key, and it takes twice as long as usual to start, about 5 full seconds of the engine cranking before it ignites. I think each time was after I had driven the car an hour or two before (when I'm heading home after an outing). Most of the time, the car starts fine. What's going on?
View 11 RepliesI have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
View 11 RepliesI have 1,600 miles on my elantra and this sound just started. On initial starting, when the engine is cold, there's this loud low pitch then high pitch sound. It only lasts for 1.5 seconds but it's loud. What could it be?
View 3 RepliesI posted a couple of weeks ago about my car making a single click instead of starting while turning the key. The dealer finally got the car in the other day and initially called to tell me that the positive cable was loose on the battery. Then called back a while later to say after trying the start the car after it was sitting for a while it again made the single click and didn't start. I never bought the battery cable story since I knew it couldn't be that loose, I checked. But instead they found the starter itself was the issue. I was thinking it may be a loose cable on the starter itself and was surprised to see the starter had burned out already. A new starter was ordered and will be installed on Tuesday. I am not sure who makes the starters for these cars but a 2012 starter should last years. In comparison, my 96 honda civic is still sporting the original starter after 17 years and a couple hundred thousand miles.
View 29 RepliesI have a 99 F3 50 with the 7.3 L I am done a lot of work to replace the HPOP pump and the ICP sensor as well as the IPR it cranks but does not start it will sputter and smokes but doesn't run SOS. Also there are no dtc in computer....
View 8 RepliesTis the first of "Squeaks and Creeks" from me. Not really the best thing to hear, sitting at ~24K miles. Anyways, until (if) i can get a sound clip, I have this metallic rattle that only occurs about 1-3 mins after i start the car. This just started happening yesterday, and nothing out of the ordinary happened.
I start the engine, hear a raspy rattle from what sounds like under the engine, and if i give it some throttle it increases some, but not to the point where it sounds like something is banging around. It goes away after a few minutes so it could be anything. Shifts are still smooth, driving and getting on the gas does not fix nor make it worse, either in neutral or actually rolling. It simply goes away with 3 minutes time or so. It seems to have a limit for how much 'rattle' it gives off, and its something I can accept.
Weird noise I am hearing with my mothers new Elantra she just picked up. When starting engine has a knocking noise, not kinding. Letting motor run for a few minutes it goes away but is concerning. I was wondering if there is an issue with the MPFI engine which i believe is new this year which replaced the GDI engine. Definitely does not sound normal to me. to me it sounds like a rode knock or hydro lifter issue. Are these engines known for this. My mother traded her 2012 civic for this with 4500 miles. She did not like the seats and dash board layout in it and we got a good deal on this car.
View 17 Replies