Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Clutch Worn Out After Some Time
Jan 3, 2012
I am currently driving a 2005 Elantra (manual trans) with only 48k miles on it. Less than a year after buying the car new the clutch had to be replaced (around 10k miles) and now the second clutch is about to go as well. I do not ride the clutch or drive like a maniac so there is no reason to be on a second clutch at 48k, let alone a third one. Is there anything I can do besides putting a new clutch in to protect against this problem in the future? Also, would installing a stronger, high-performance clutch work?
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In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
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Just noticed a clicking noise every time I push the clutch pedal down, I had my wife push the pedal while I listened under the hood and no noise it's coming from the clutch assembly under the dash! It's a 2013 only 4000km's on it so it's not like anything should be worn from over use etc. It's when I had the radio off driving I heard it, not super loud but more curiosity if it's normal noise from a clutch assembly.
As well the odd time I hear well my wife heard and pointed it out to me, when I push the brake pedal (more when we get in the car in the morning after sitting overnight) the same kinda sound more like when brake pad's are gently popping loose I guess you could say!? Like I said its mainly only after sitting for awhile, but we did hear it the odd time just as I go to slow down and only a quick 'click' again not deadly or anything more annoying that the car is brand new and we went brand new cause we were tired of creepy older cars we'd previously driven! I'm wondering if that may be exactly why its doing it since its new and need's to be used a bit to loosen up, this is the actually the first brand new no previous drivers car I've had!
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I have a 2012 Kia Soul with 27,000 miles and the clutch needs replacing. I've driven standard transmission vehicles for 45 years (sad to say) and have never had a worn clutch. How can I tell if the original clutch truly is worn or is defective? This is rather critical if it's the former (i.e. worn), I'm out $1400.00; if it's defective, the manufacturer pays.
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The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
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I just replaced the clutch plate and throw out bearing since the clutch was bad but now its like the clutch has seized up or maybe the transmission is bad. I did start it up and a friend of mine Idk stepped on the gas or something and blew the clutch master cylinder.
2001 Hyundai Elantra ... I dont know anything about this car ....
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We swapped transmissions in 01 elantras.. We installed a new clutch kit . When we go to start the clutch won't completely disengage, it only pulls it some, not enough. We replaced Tran fluid and bled it. We swapped out the throw out bearing arm and at first it worked now it doesn't..
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I bought an 05 elantra for my daughter's first car. 47,000 miles.
I noticed every time the fan is on, the a/c appears to be running (as evidenced by cold air, clicking on and off of the air conditioner, draining of the system onto the road after shut down, etc.). Even with the a/c light off, it's clearly running. Could it be the switch or relay?
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2002 Elantra
Replaced new clutch disc and new pressure plate.
Without turning on the engine, the clutch pedal seems to get harder to press, until it can't be pressed down anymore. The pedal can't be pressed down.
Clutch fork lever does not release.
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I drive a 2001 Elantra, 5 speed manual, about 135k km on it which is about 85k miles. Yesterday I felt the clutch pedal was engaging unusually low or was not as resistant to the weight of my leg as is usual. I could drive it without much trouble though.
This morning the pedal went all the way to the floor with virtually no pressure exerted on my half, and shifting gears was pretty much impossible without excessive force, so I parked it and walked to work instead. It felt like I was shifting gears without stepping down on the pedal, even though the pedal was all the way to the floor.
I then checked the fluid in the reservoir and it was at the max, but it was black like oil. I've done some reading and I'm thinking replacing or cleaning the master and slave cylinders could work. Am I way off?
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We are in need of a 4th clutch for our 2004 Elantra. This is a despicable record for Hyundai.
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Here's the scoop: 2 year old clutch & flywheel with 21,000 miles on them. Clutch master cyl. is full & not leaking. The clutch slave cyl. moves when the clutch is pressed & is also not leaking. The shifter linkage has been checked at the shifter and moves freely as it should.
I started the car, put it in gear, let the clutch out and there is no movement from the car regardless of the engine revs. The engine runs freely and does not die with the clutch engaged and the transaxle in gear. Putting it in ANY gear (including reverse) has no effect. The car will not move.
After turning the engine off I left the car in gear, left the e-brake disengaged, released the foot brake and the car stayed put. I then put the shifter into neutral, let the foot brake off and the car began to roll. I stopped, put the shifter back into 1st, let the foot brake off and the car was again stationary and did not roll. This tells me that the shifter linkage indeed works and that the car WILL go into gear. So, why won't the car move under power?
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
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I need to tear down a zf6 out of a 2000 powerstroke to replace a broken clutch fork and a a worn input shafts. What special tools do I need for this?
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My 02 elantra gls 5 speed clutch has gotten stuck engaged for about the third time now. First time was right after I bought the car i noticed the clutch would slip randomly for no reason. At first i thought the clutch must need replaced, but then other times I couldn't make it slip if i tried by going up steep hills with car full of people and shifting too soon on purpose and punching gas....no slip. So anyways i replaced the slave cylinder, and all was good till one day my wife calls me up stranded and says clutch pedal is rock hard and none of the gears will engage. so i tow the car home and fiddle around and realized the slave cylinder (brand new one) was stuck out. I opened the bleeder and it returned without me having to push on it or anything. i then bled the system thoroughly. So months have gone by and the slave cylinder got stuck out again, and again it was a simple turn of the bleeder valve and it went back and works fine. just curious as to how i can fix this problem permanently since its irritating and seems to be reoccurring. do i need to replace the master cylinder as well or did i buy a bad slave cylinder?
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In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 72,000 miles on it. My rear tires are worn. Do I put the replacement tires on the rear or on the front (and rotate the front tires to the back?) I've asked several mechanics and got several different answers. Isn't there a definite answer to this question?
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I am searching for any kind of adjustment that might enable me to force the clutch level to the positive stop. It stands off about an 1/8" to 3/16" and I think is the reason I am not getting engagement in first gear, it slips heavily but fine in all other gears. The key way on the the lever prevents me from moving it a notch or two if I thought I could and don't know if that's even the answer . I can't figure out what is preventing it from returning fully on its own I can push it by and and a little fluid will squirt from the reservoir. Ive replaced the slave cylinder and bled it.
Is there any adjustment under the dash? This is a 2001 elantra that I just put a 2000 trans 5 speed.
My original plan was to pull the parts from the 2000 and replace in the 2001. I had lost 1st and 5th totally and found a 2000 that went right in with some minor mtr mnt mods. It shifts just fine except for this 1st gear thing. I saw a video and am having second thought about that move. I dont really want to pull the trans out again.
1st gear just keep slipping. new clutch kit installed when I swapped them out. It feels like a linkage thing somewhat but I cant find adjust ment to tryout.
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai elantra gls with 190,000 miles on it. I have a scraping noise coming from the transmission when the clutch is not pressed in, the noise is present whether I am in gear or just in neutral. If I press the clutch in than the noise will completely go away. I have searched and found that these symptoms usually mean its an internal transmission problem and not just the throw out or pilot bearing.
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I have just purchased a 2005 elantra fx and noticed a vibration all the time in the steering and you can feel it in the seat on the floor and peddles, not severe but enough to be annoying. I had the same vibration in my last car a 2001 elantra. Is this normal with these cars, or could it be something like engine mounts as there is a very very slight clunk on acceleration ?
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