Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Overheating Only Under Throttle / CEL Code P0117
Jan 29, 2013
My Girlfriends car over last night, i went and picked her up and found the radiator caps was not on right and the electric fan was unplugged. Fixed both of the those and got about 10 miles and the car still over heats only while under throttle. I pull over and park it starts cooling down. turn on heat seems to work for a moment but it never blows warm air. The check engine light came on and i have got the code P0117, Engine Coolant Temp, circuit low input.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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my old lady has a 2001 olds intrigue with the 3.5L in it. Sunday evening we replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Coolant Temp Sensor. Monday she was on her way back to Iowa and the tempature gauge spiked up to the Hot area. I looked it over and could not find anything wrong. I sent her on her way and she made it about a mile before it did it again. The car will spike up to the hot area but the motor shows no signs of over heating. I checked the temps with a heat gun while the car is idling and read out Thermostat housing-160, Rad-80, Rad hose-130, and coolant 170. I than ran the car up so it shows on the gauge its hot and than checked again, it than reads Thermostat housing-172, Rad-100, Rad hose-134, and coolant 184. If I am running it at 1500 rpms it will spike up but once i take it up to 2500 rpms it drops back down to normal on the gauge. I am lost for what it could be.
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I drive a 2005 elantra drives smooth until when the temp rises to the middle of the gauge and then it idles more with a racking noise from the engine it happens fast when I drive with the A/C on in the afternoon I have a new radiator tank now.
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What Is that little hose for? I can Smell the gasoline whenever i start the car in the morning. It is cracked But i recently heard a z-zzing Under the hood. Is it an expensive hose? What about the hose clamp.. it looks weird.. is its special for that application ? I wanna replace it myself but I don't want to do it wrong and turn my car on fire.
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So my 2005 elantra gls has been having overheating problems. A few weeks ago, it overheated one day driving around town for about 30 minutes. I kicked on the heater and made it home. I went out the next day and didn't see any problems. Everything went fine for two weeks, then yesterday the problem happened again. I read about the thermostat often failing, so I did some research on that and replaced it today.
For replacing the thermostat, I followed the lower hose and found the housing, removed it and took out the old thermostat. Removed the old gasket, cleaned around the connection, dried it off. Then I put the new thermostat in , put some gasket sealer down and putthe new gasket on. Finally, put some more sealer on the outside of the gasket and put the housing back on.
After replacing it and immediately turning on the car, I got a High Oil Temp code. I cleared the code and let the car idle for while. After about 15 minutes I went for a drive around the neighborhood and then took it out on the highway for about 10 minutes. It started overheating by the time I got home. I turned it off and when starting it again I get the High Oil Temp code.
Is it possible that I didn't do something correctly with the thermostat. If not, what else could I look for and could I have bumped/damaged the oil temp sensor?
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I have Elantra GT 2006 with traction control and ABS, disk brakes. The rear right wheel is overheating. Checked if sliding pins are moving. They were fine. With working engine if brake pedal is pressed wheel does not move, pedal is released and wheel can rotate. Three days ago I replaced rear right caliper together with the caliper hose. It did not work. After driving in city for 15-20 minutes right rear wheel will be hot to the point that you cannot hold your hand (left rear and front ones are barely worm). I tried to remove the fuses for ABS and it did not work.
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I can get it started and let it idle for an hour....idles smoothe. As soon as I try to move the car or step on the throttle...it stalls.
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I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
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When I so this its like pressing in the clutch and revving it but my car is an automatic. During the upshift and downshift there is no jerking or hard shifting so I would assume this is OK? And is full throttling your car every few days bad or good?
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2003 Hyundai Elantra.
Driving on the highway and thought I heard a belt squeal. Looked at temp gauge, overheating in the red. Stopped car. Antifreeze on passenger side sprayed around, hard to tell from where.
Waiting a while, put a good amount of water in it as there seemed to be no anti-freeze left. Drove a bit more and it started going up on temp gauge. Pulled off highway on an exit, temp gauge went back down before I could pull over.
So I continued on the highway. The temp gauge would go back up to 3/4, then I'd put it in neutral to cost to a better place to stop, and the gauge would go back to halfway.. continued this for several miles to get home. Never overheated again, but kept getting "hot"(3/4) and dropping back down to normal (1/2)...
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My 2005 elantra hvt 2.0 has oil leaking into the air filter coming through or near the throttle body, I've been told its an egr valve.
If it is...where is it and how much for a new one and is it an easy fix? If not what could be causing the leak?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2001 that I just bought off someone. I've had the car maybe 2 weeks, I changed the radiator because it overheated last week. Then, I found out the valve cover was cracked in four places, I replaced those too... I bought and installed a new thermostat, and I thought that would be the end of overheating... I was wrong, last night I felt like I smelled antifreeze strongly, so I parked it and this morning before heading home from work, I checked the radiator, it was empty. I filled it with antifreeze, and headed home, 20 minutes later, I parked on my drive and see that I have a huge leak... and it's antifreeze.
So, seems like I had left the cap open somehow, I didn't close it all the way. That was understandable, so I put some more coolant in it, and took off in the afternoon - 20 minutes into my drive, it starts slowly overheating, I see the gauge going up so I pull over, as soon as I do the car shuts off. I took the keys off the ignition and opened the hood. Now, there's smoke coming off the engine (smoke came from under the valve covers). I gave it 20 minutes rest at least, then added water in the radiator. Turned it on and it worked ok for about 5 minutes, I drove 2 hours to get it home at this rate, stopping every so often. Then, got it home and parked it.
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2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
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Today, the air conditioning stopped working in my 2003 Elantra. Just stopped blowing cold air. Then the engine thermometer kept on climbing. When I pulled over home, I lifted the hood and heard a lot of bubbling and gurgling sounds, and coolant fluid leaked out underneath the car.
What could be the cause of this? When I let the car stay for a while, the AC did kick back on, but only for a few moments and the thermometer kept on climbing again until I turned the car off. The fan is blowing, I can hear it, but it is obviously not cooling the engine off appropriately.
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Getting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
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Back in March I started a thread regarding my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 which would not start after a spark plug change.
After a ton of research, & a smoke test on the intake I came to the conclusion that there was an issue with the throttle sensor as I unknowingly opened it when I was removing the intake to get to the last bolts behind the manifold. Shortly after my post, I decided to bite the bullet & buy a junkyard TB out of another Santa Fe 3.5.
After installing the new TB, the car now starts but runs extremely rich. I am now getting the code p2135 for Electronic Throttle Control System Malfunction.
Luckily up until this point I haven't needed the Santa Fe as it is mainly a winter vehicle. However, winter is quickly approaching & I would like to have her running before the snow starts to fly.
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My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
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My 2005 Elantra has 240,000 miles on it and uses about a quart of oil per 1000 miles. It does not smoke, nor are there any oil leaks. I've owned this car since new and I've done all the maintenance work (oil changes, timing belts, CV boots, etc).
The oil consumption started at about 120,000 miles and has gotten progressively worse. Outside of the oil consumption, this car is in great shape. It starts and runs very well. My kids drive it about 1000 miles per week between work, college, and other events.
If it didn't burn so much oil, I'd go ahead and replace the clutch, struts, and shocks but can't validate the time and expense given the oil issue.
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Just bought myself a nice low mileage 05 Elantra. Every time I start the car with the temp control at max & the direction knob turned to windshield or windshield/cabin, the green a/c light glows & my compressor starts. I have to click the button off every time. The car came with no owners manual.
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