2004, DWR, 4x4, 6.0 PSD. One day he started the truck moved it 100' shut it off and the next day it would crank over but not fire. It will fire and run rough if you give it a shot of starting fluid. It shows codes P0401, P0275,P0528, P132B.
View 14 RepliesHad extreme cold weather here and I left my truck unplugged for a couple of weeks. Started fine but stalled once the fuel was used up in the lines. Replaced fuel filer and filled with that anti gel stuff. Truck sounds like it is almost firing up but still cannot get it to run. When I turn the key on it sound like the fuel pump is working for about one minute and then turns off. Made sure the fuel filter was overfilled with deiseal. Turned it over so many times the lines should be full by now. I used that quick start stuff and it almost starts every time.
View 9 RepliesFriends truck, 06 with 135k. Problem he's having is, truck cranks over fine but doesn't fire, if he kick starts it, it fires right up. Haven't had the chance to put my AE on it, figured I throw it out there.
View 7 RepliesWent to the store came home no problems. Went out to go to work next morning truck won't start. Cranks just fine just doesn't try to run. Was not getting voltage at ficm replaced board in ficm have correct voltage now but still won't start
View 2 RepliesI just bought an 04 Ford F250 diesel 6.0 with 92k miles. Previous owner installed a UNGO alarm with remote start. Last week, after work, I started it using remote start. I got in the truck and realized I had forgotten something, so I exit the truck and leave the keys on the seat. Truck is still running. The doors lock. I reached in through the cracked window and pushed the unlock button. Here's the problem.. the truck died immediately won't start.. mechanic says it's the high pressure oil pump. I'm thinking it's the anti theft system but no luck.
View 1 RepliesMy truck ran great when I got to my house that I turned it off and tried turning it on again it wouldn't turn on I check the fuel pump it works I checked the injector if it was getting fuel it was .I'm a stand still, where else to check? What to do?
View 14 RepliesFirst time ever. It has 175K on it. Ran fine yesterday. Went out this morning and it almost started, then stopped firing. It was facing down hill, so I thought possibly it wasn't getting the proper volume of oil, so I checked it and had to added 2 quarts to get it up to the proper level. This did not work.
I do have one question: Does the Water in Fuel light stay on until it starts? After turning it over again, it wanted to start at first, then stopped firing completely, but while cranking the WiF light goes off. Does this mean that there is no water in the fuel?
I m keeping it on the charger to make sure the batteries are up to snuff when I try it again. I only crank it for about 15 seconds before I let it rest. I don't have a code reader but I do have a ScanGuage2.
Recently my F150 has had issues starting in the mornings. It is in an insulated garage. It takes about 10 cranks before it fires. Then it struggles to run like its not getting fuel for a second or two, then rpm's jump to 1200 and has a slight miss for another second or two, then it smooths out and is fine. Leaving my driveway it will have a miss around 2000rpm for about two seconds then the truck will run perfect the rest of the day. It can sit outside in the cold for 10 hours while i am at work and will fire right up and run great. The issues only happens in the morning.
All the plugs were changed about 6 months ago. Fuel pump and fuel pump drive module were changed about 3 weeks ago. The check engine light has come on twice. The first time I didn't have access to a code reader and since the truck started right away and then died instantly i figured that was why the light came on, so i disconnected the battery and re-connected it. Light didn't come back on for a week. Second time code was for misfire on cylinder 5. I am changing the fuel filter this week. If that doesn't work i was gonna change the #5 coil.
A little background, this is an 04, f-350. It sis not start a week ago so I charged the batteries and it started, started fine this morning, (had not driven it for the week) Drove it to work, 35 miles, parked it, and it will not start.
I downloaded Torque and got a few numbers,
HPOP 1900 FMP 48V (repaired last summer) and FVP 11.5V.
Ran out of battery to surf more and look, so I am trying to figure out the app, and the issue with the truck. It seems to turn over good, until I ran the battery down, and the GP cycles normally, and the injector buzz seems good. Temp is in the 50's...
04 with 170k miles. truck runs fine. every now and then truck shuts off while driving. turn it off the it restarts every time. Only code that comes up is number 6 injector. The contribution test injector is firing right. FICM voltage is 47.5. has new ipr and hpop also 6k miles ago. Could it be number 6 shorts out or something crazy killing truck? or maybe a crank sensor.
View 14 RepliesLast friday, my truck died while running. I let it sit for a few hours, went out and it started right up. Went to get pizza for my kids and I got 5 blocks from my house and I barely had any power. Truck died again while getting pizza and had to tow it home. Now it will not start. I have checked fuses, taken apart the fuel pump on the motor and cleaned the water from it, added a fuel treatment and also did an old truckers trick with the fuel (10% gasoline). the truck will crank and make an attempt to fire but it will not start. I have 3 kids and this is my ONLY transportation. I need to get this thing running STAT.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 with a 6.0l Diesel and a 5 speed automatic. The truck is 4 wheel drive. As far as I know it is completely stock and has 236,500 miles on it. I thought that I was having stiction issues because when the truck is cold and when driving ~55 mph (1500 rpm) in 6th, the truck shudders until ECT gets to about 150F. This is at a constant speed, when accelerating or decelerating it doesn't shudder. Today I held 40 mph (1500 rpm) in 5th and there was no shudder. I don't know the TFT the shudder goes away at because the epiphany about the transmission was today. Once warmed up there is no to very slight shudder and only around 55 mph (1500 rpm). Above or below that the shudder goes away.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F350 6.0. It is leaking diesel from the front of the engine to the ground. I have a video of this and pictures as well but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. What I can do??Puddle after about 20 min of running.
Dripping from here, left of hose....
I have not been on here for a while my X has never had any problems 140,000+ miles. yesterday went out side to start her and let it warm up went back inside to make coffee came out 10 minutes later and found a server oil leak pouring out under the truck. Immediately turned her off popped the hood and found oil all over the back top of the motor? before I start tearing into it, need to know where to start. I've read IPC sensor, CAC hose, anything else to look for?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 F350 with 6.0. My problem is the 4x4 will not engage from inside the truck. I have to get out and twist each hub to lock in the 4 wheel drive. If I rev the engine with high rpms the front will lock in with a big jerk. It use to lock in just by turning switch. What is the best way to fix it?
View 5 RepliesMy wife was driving through the intersection when the truck died... Tried to start it again but no go, I had it towed home, and stared to troubleshoot.
I have a Scan gauge2 and these were the readings: FMP: 47.5, IPR: 84.71, SYC: 1, ICP: 0
I pulled the IPR (that was only a year old) and the screen was perfect. I had 11.5v at the plug for the IPR, and on the Ohms scale I was reading 1.8Mohms.
I went to the dealer and got a new IPR, and still no start. and the only change in the reading on the scan gauge was the ICP is now reading 56. The gauge on the dash is reading normal oil pressure, but I haven't checked actual Low-end oil pressure.
Last month I replace the HPOP, and 1 faulty injector. Now I thinking wire loom, defective new IPR from the dealership or the new HPOP has failed.
2004 f350 after i shut the truck off something was buzzing. So I popped the hood and found its the injector harness or injectors.Is this normal or something I need to look into?
View 3 RepliesThis past weekend I noticed I was loosing boost pressure on my 2003 7.3l F250 so I pulled my turbo out found the problem fixed it then put the turbo back in. After it was all said and done I went to start the truck up and it just cranked and cranked a cranked but no start. Worried I didn't hook something up right I checked and rechecked everything to do with the turbo, all good nothing out of the ordinary.
I tried to start again, nothing. Spent all day yesterday trying to figure this out. Replaced the cps still nothing. No movement in tach but I don't remember any on startup anyway. Drained the fuel filter had adequate pressure and such but replaced the filter anyway. Still nothing. Checker all my fuses, one by on and non were blown but I still tried disconnecting my fuel bowl heater and still got nothing. I tried disconnecting the Icp still nothing. There was no oil around the icp either.
I'm getting frustrated that the truck wont start, the truck ran perfectly fine before the turbo removal but now wont even give a sign of kicking up. Just cranks and cranks. Also checked Hpop to see if that's the cause and it's filled like to the brim. But when I'm cranking the truck about 10 sec into the oil pressure gauge kicks up and reads good but only when cranking.
Truck cranks wont start. Fuses and relays good, New motorcraft; IPR, ICP with pigtails, New T500 hpop, New 180/80 Injectors, Push rods, 910 valve springs, Mellings lpop. Motorcraft oil cooler.
Reservoir full, oil new 15-40w Amsoil, Rails full, Fuel bowl full and clean, HPOP drive gear rechecked and torqued.
RPM 180
Temp oil 88*
ICP duty cycle koeo 14.8, crank 64.85
ICP pressure 250 -450psi
ICP voltage .27-.50
Manual gauge on oil rail 250 -450psi when cranking
Inj pulse width .0005,
Buzz test was good
Vref 5v all sensors. 12v at IPR w/koeo
Fuel pressure 58psi
Air test hpop hear no leaks with stethoscope.
DTC codes: P1280, P0380
Also put straight edge across injectors to double check they were seated.
04 f350 drw 2x4 ... I know this is a weird question, but i put 4 new tires on the rear of my truck and developed what i can describe as "loose body" symptoms. Most noticeable in going down the highway it feels like the rear of the truck sways and its hard to control and keep straight at times. Check tire pressures n front and rear suspension for broken springs or loose joints. Nothing looks broken or out of place. Prior to replacement truck drove straight n all was good. Also noticed steering wheel is now off center.
View 9 RepliesMy 04 PS was blowin white smoke constantly while running. I just towed a uHaul from Connecticut to Virginia Beach and had some coolant issues on the drive down (I was out of coolant on 95 in PA, added coolant and it made the rest of the drive no problem). I got here to Virginia and it was low on coolant again. I added coolant to it, and now I have some other issues. I had what looked like oil comin out the stacks onto the bed, so I pulled the turbo thinking it was seals. But the turbo was just rebuilt prior to me buying it with a wicked wheel in it. It still had stock EGR and it has 202K on it.
Checked and found EGR valve was wet. Ordered an EGR delete kit, and just finished installing it. Now with everything put back together, the truck doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled the codes from my tuner and I got: P0403, P0405, P0683, and P2623. I know P0403 and P0405 are related to EGR but the others I'm at a loss on. The EGR delete kit I bought included the blank to remove the valve but what do I do with the plug that used to plug into it? Any way forward to get the truck back up and runnin again? This is my daily driver and not lookin to break the bank to get it goin again but I really need her to be reliable.