I am doing the usual upgrades on a 2005 F250. What started as a small leak at the rubber coupling between egr tube and oil cooler turned into doing everything else while motor is down this far.
I am curious what the difference in the upgraded oil cooler is? Well besides not prone to failing as early.
I've been watching fluid build up on what I think is the hi-pressure line on the hydroboost. It appears to be originating at the coupling in the line because it is dry back at the unit.
Is there an o-ring or nylon washer in this fitting?
Can it be tightened?
Does the o-ring or washer need to be replaced?
Is it a sign of something else, like a build up of pressure in the line that is too high?
I currently have zero problems or noise coming from the steering or brake system.
2 1/2 years ago I installed a BPD remote oil cooler with BPD filter. The stock oil cooler was clogging up for the second time and didnt want to chance it. The BPD oil cooler works great. I have never seen high oil temps in any driving condition. Last week I was replacing the hubs and seals on the front of the excursion and noticed the oil was leaking from the 90 at the end of the hose oil filter location. I called BPD and sent them a picture. The 90 is corroded and is failing. They said something about a 2 year warranty but because of the rust they would not send one out for free. I purchased a new hose and the other 90 that goes right after it.
They recommended that I spray it with undercoating or something. I live in upstate NY and deal with a lot of salt on the roads in winter. I do keep the truck clean in winter as much a possible. I am posting this so if there are any others in similar situation you should do something to prevent that 90 from rusting like mine did. If I had known this when we installed it prob would not be replacing it now. Will be replacing it tonight or tomorrow. BPD said I will need a 1 1/4 crow foot or remove the turbo to get to the other end of the hose. Not posting this to bash on BPD just sharing so any others can prevent this part from rusting out.
I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 and almost 175,000. On vacation right now and noticed when I came out of a store that there was a puddle of water under the passengers side. Chalked it up to AC defrost. The second time I was not running AC and puddle again.
Felt and smelt of it...antifreeze. Just put in all new Zerex G05 and a new degas tank because when working on it I noticed a pin hole in the base before we left. I replaced the EGR cooler and hose from Sinister about 3 plus years ago.
Would the EGR cooler hose be leaking? I've noticed that white residue on top of the intake around the where the hose is. What would cause this, Heat, wear and tare....my luck ?
I I have a pretty good o ring leak where the egr cooler meets with the intake. My question is can i replace the o ring without removing​ the intake. If so what is the process.
View 2 RepliesCan I change these out to hydraulic hoses with clamps that are rated for the fluid. Mine are rusted and starting to leak.
View 6 RepliesI have a problem when I have been on the road for about an hour or more the wrench light comes on. There is no change in how the truck runs, and when I run a systems check it says that all of my temps are good to go. The one think I have noticed that the next morning I have a small oil leak on the ground on the days that the wrench has come on. The egr valve was just cleaned. I am getting ready to make a trip across the country with a 10,000 lb trailer so I am a little worried about this. Can I take it in to a shop and have them get a code when the light isn't on? Also I am replacing all of the glow plugs this weekend but from what I have read it shouldn't have anything to do with the wrench light.
View 9 Replies2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
View 13 Replies (E350 van)... I smelled diesel fuel inside the van tonight and used my flashlight to investigate the leak. The cover around the blue spring is damp.
Before I remove every again to gain access to the filter housing to fix the leak, what I am may encounter. Seems like a good time to do the blue spring upgrade. Can I access the egr valve to inspect and clean?
What are the possible areas to check for the leak? Sometimes finding little problems leads to finding big problems. When my FICM went out I discovered the battery terminal clamp was broke.
I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
I have approximately 66,000 miles on my 2013 F250 truck and noticed a small drip from the front drivers side around 40,000 miles. That random drip is now a leak and the truck will be going into the shop to replace the Primary Radiator.
I absolutely love this truck, but what a disappointment that this isn't a recall. What scares me is that my buddy who has a 2014 F250 will be going in for his second primary radiator in 3 years of ownership.
I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.
I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
View 9 RepliesI had a leak at the flange several months ago. I fixed it with the diesel o rings kit. I made a trip from TX to AL with no leaking and drive it daily without leaks. But, 2 weeks ago noticed a small dribble of a leak from the same spot again - not enough to leave a mark on the pavement but any leaking drives me nuts. I applied some RTV. It worked for the 2 weeks.
Today, noticing another dribble of a leak coming through the RTV down the pan. I'm thinking the flange is bent and not keeping that o-ring sealed against the pan. I'm going to try to apply some additional RTV at the leak spot. If this doesn't work? Is that Strictly Diesel adapter really worth that kind of dough? Is pushing the OEM adapter into the pan really acceptable? Any other options?
What is the consensus on this setup? Is it worth the money? Or is it more hype than function? Their logic behind it definitely seems to make sense.
View 11 RepliesStill working on this E450. Now, I'm trying to get the turbo back on and I don't know how the heck to get the oil tube in.
There's so little room that I can't lift the turbo up. Just getting it in and out is a chore. I was able to pull the oil tube out with some difficulty when I was removing the turbo, but if it put it in first, the turbo won't go over it to get back in. If I leave it disconnected to get the turbo in, I have no way to reach under it to get the oil tube back in.
I only messed with it for a little while - it's physically difficult bending over inside the van to wrestle with it - and will go back at it first thing in the morning. I know there's gotta be a way, I've just never done this before.
Do I stick the tube in the turbo first, in the engine, or neither until I got the turbo in place?
my mom's car is a 2008 chevy impala police car. This police car has an extra oil cooler unit. the rubber hose is leaking oil right at the point where the rubber is crimped to the metal end connection nut. since this is a police car the rubber hose is very expensive at the dealer (over $300 for the part only). Is there a cheap way to seal this leak with some form of heat resistant tape or glue compound ? or, can I cut the existing rubber hose and remove the leaking end & replace with a 3rd party rubber hose with the correct end and then join the two rubber hoses at the cut portion together with some creative scheme like a metal tube insert with metal tie wrap clamps? Any creative solution that i can deploy to stop this oil leak.
View 6 RepliesSo after a hot drive yesterday we thought to do some googling about our clutch cycling on and off so fast. Yep, the airgap was out of spec. Fixed that.
Then we added some refrigerant to the truck. The truck is "new to us" and this is our first summer with it so not sure what might've gone on previously with the AC. Didn't take long to find a rather sizable leak. :P
See that metal tube going into the "spongy" area? Yeah, that's where it seems to be coming out. That tube is the only one that's cold, the rest are ambient temp. We fix a lot on our jeeps, but the AC system is naturally a bit out of our wheel house since it's not something you normally tangle with. Is this an easy fix? Or do we need to take it in to get serviced?
What does that mean when there is a little oil in my cold side CAC tube?? It's just a little but it's even found it's way up into the intake elbow. Hopefully nothing too bad.
View 14 RepliesHaving this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
View 4 Replies