Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Water Pump Start Squeaking And Leaking On Cold Mornings
Jan 12, 2017
So I am on my 3rd water pump in 75k miles.
What I am assuming what was the original OEM pump died when the water pump pulley split in 2 and wrapped the belt around the pump at 187k.
The guy I use when I don't want to work on the beast put an O'rielly's lifetime new pump on it. That lasted almost 2 years and 40k miles.
I put another O'rielly's pump on it in the fall of 16' when it started leaking on cold mornings.
9k miles latter the last pump decided to start squeaking and leaking on cold mornings again!!
So I am now putting on a factory pump that should be made of gold for the price I paid for it from the local dealer. It was almost 2x's the cost of a new aftermarket pump.
My question to the collective is...is my experience with aftermarket pumps the norm?
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2013 6.7..46k miles.
I know we have crappy radiators. that's why I bought the premiumcare plan. had that replaced at 45k..200 miles later smelling coolant. take it in they say the water pump is leaking from a "weap hole"...great...get it back..still smell coolant. very fricken frustrated. Not what I expect from a 45,000 dollar truck. especially a 2013....
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I've noticed on mornings when it's around freezing or colder my FICM voltage drops down to around 40. after about a minute it creeps up until it's in normal range, about 48 volts or better. This only seems to last about a minute before it's in normal range. No check engine lights though.
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I'm replacing my water pump and was wondering how to remove this.
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I bought an '04 Powerstroke from a dealer in Dallas. Problems started to crop up immediately, so I replaced the thermostat. This seemed to handle my cooling issues for a couple days, until when preparing to drive to Austin, I noticed coolant pouring from what appeared to be the location of the water pump. I turned around and drove the two blocks back home, and replaced the water pump. However, when i went to restart the truck, I got only a partial turn of the crank. I let off immediately and waited a couple seconds, then tried again; same result.
I haven't had the glow plugs out yet to see what type of fluid is causing the lock. I was so pissed last night that I just went and took a nap, but I intend to check it out today after work. If it's fuel, excellent. I'll replace an injector and be done with it. If it's coolant, however, what are my most likely culprits? The EGR and oil coolers are stock, so maybe them. I would consider head gaskets, but that seems a little unlikely; while it was still running, there was no smoking, no notable pressurizing of the coolant system, etc. I am as of yet too unfamiliar with the underpinnings of the 6.0 to come up with any other possibilities, but I'm more than capable of dealing with them if you guys can suggest anything.
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Need to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
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have a 2006 f250 with the 6.0 Powerstroke diesel started overheating yesterday the ECT and EOTcheck fine with the scangauge always ran with in 8 degree's of each other. Thought maybe water pump impeller may have been slipping so it is new with no change. Fan kicks on like it should. Heater works good so don't think it is a thermostat.
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Recently my 2011 F-250 Diesel with 21,000 miles seemed to start hard one morning. After starting the truck it ran well that day and started fine. The next morning it would not start. Had it taken to the dealer and they went to work. Started at the fuel filters and replaced low pressure fuel pump. Thought a piece of the defective pump had moved up fuel line. Removed high pressure pump and found signs of rust. All regular service intervals have been met. Didn't see this coming. No water in fuel light or other warning.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty V8 7.3 L. I removed the water-pump then waited five days for the oring for the new pump. I installed it and now the truck will not start. I have drained the fuel water separator and replaced the filter. On the passengers side through the kick panel I found that button popped out so I pushed it back in and still it will not run. It acts like its not getting fuel but if my fuel water separator is filing up I'm assuming mu fuel pump is working??
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07 f250 I just replaced the power steering pump. I put the serpentine belt back on and when I started my truck I now have a squeaking noise. It's driving me nuts and the more I push the pedal it gets alil louder. Now before I did the ps pump I did hear a little noise like of bearings squeaking when I put my ear to grill.... I put the old ps pump pulley on the new pump but I don't think that is it because it is pressed on. Would it be a bad idler/tension pully? Is it just a coincidence after I do ps pump that it now decides to squeak?
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I've been getting some grayish/blueish smoke on cold starts lately and decided to do some investigation to see if there was a problem or just the cold temps.
I googled it and turbo oil seal problem was pretty common so I figured it was easiest to start there. I removed the pipe between turbo and CAC and it had quite a bit of oil it in. The pipe after the CAC had a fair amount as well. I checked the oil level in the engine and it was slightly down but I can't say how accurate the dipstick is nor it was completely full after the last oil change. Either way, not much oil is entering the intake but I would assume any is too much.
Here's my main concern - What's the likelihood of getting a runaway from this?? Is it possible for the oil seal to fail 'more' than it already has putting more oil in the intake allowing for a runaway condition?
Obviously the turbo needs replaced but is it safe to run it the way it is until it completely fails or replace immediately?
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I have a 2006 f150 lariat 5.4 triton I just purchased a few months back with 80,000 miles on it.
I recently have been hearing a gurgling or even a water sound from under my dash board on cold mornings. Note I don't even use my heat or air conditioner and I drive about two miles to work, park my car and turn it off and for a minute or so I hear gurgling or a sloshing noise. Note some days I don't hear it when it's 60 degrees outa X warm for the day.
Now a week ago I took it to the dealer and they said yes your heater plugs were clogged, they fixed that and I can now still hear the noise....
So I have been searching around and allot of website have been saying that it's my coolant level. Now I just drove to work and here is a pic of my coolant level.
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I have about 70k miles on my truck and I've noticed just recently that my suspension is squeaking or creaking when I start to turn the wheel. What's the solution.... 2011 6.7 F350 super duty....
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20 degrees out this morning truck not plugged in, didn't want to start had to cycle 4-5 times, each time waiting for glow plug Light to go out.
Finally cranked didn't sound pretty but cranked. Once it started idling on its own got out and seen a puddle of oil under the front of the engine drivers side center kind of.
Got up on the truck and shined a light in the valley and seen a puddle in intake valley. Heres my question? Where did this oil come from? Once it warmed up it quit and oil kinda disappeared from valley???
I had turbo off a few months ago because I thought I had a bearing down in it, but found some bolts lose. When I put turbo back on I broke the wire plug on front of the pedestal so I just left it unplugged. Very hard to cold start now that that is unhooked.
Did leaving this unhooked create a hard cold start? Should I put another pedestal on it with the plug or install one without it? Also will it hurt to leave plugged in overnight?
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Truck is a completely stock 2002. New injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover harness, and injector cups a year ago... all motorcraft parts. New batteries and starter in the last 6 months.
I've checked the GPR both at the relay and harness got power all the way to the valve cover harness on all 8. Injector buzz test sounds okay as well.
Had a stuck IPR issue a few moths ago that caused a CEL and died while running. Took apart and cleaned the IPR and CEL is gone truck runs great once started and has correct IPR pressures in all RPM ranges.
Truck runs great once it is started and is not sluggish until warm like when it was hard to start when cold with leaking injector o-rings.
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Could a leaking passenger side glow plug harness cause a "hot no start?
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2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
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Well.. my truck has been running great for the past few years. This morning I went to start it and all it does is cranks and cranks.. no start not even a sputter.. I use the torque app and noticed the HPOP was over 900 psi during cranking and ICP volts were .8 volts. FICM was 48.5 and around 47 during cranking. I even unplugged the ICP connector and got the same results.. just cranks and no start. i noticed while it cranks i don't get any white "smoke" coming out of the tail pipe I even sniffed in there and I don't smell any diesel at all.
I pulled the upper fuel filter and it is full of fuel, the fuel pump does its normal buzzing when the key is turned on. I even checked the emergency shut off switch for the fuel pump and it was fine. At the moment I am charging both batteries... they were draining because of all the cranking. I think I will check the FICM with a multi meter when the batteries are good and charged.. Seems weird to be running fine with no hints of issues then all of a sudden its dead.
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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I just bought a new to me, 2005 ford f-350 6.0L turbo diesel with 220,000 miles. It has an EGR delete, and aftermarket intake and exhaust. I am having power loss issues, and cold start issues, and judging from these symptoms, I figured it was the FICM. I thought it had to be the FICM. As per the tech folder on this site, I tested the FICM. I first learned that I have one of the Bullet proof FICM's, and when I tested it (3 times) it read between 57.5 and 58V. I conducted this test three times both with just turning the key, and with the truck running. I then took the truck into Ford, and they gave me a list of all of the codes the truck threw:
P0611
p0113
p0405
p0671
p0673
p0675
p0677
p0341
I researched all of these codes, and it seems to point to the FICM, but Ford stated they pulled a reading of 54.5v. The tech then told me that the upgraded bullet proof FICM probably ruined my injectors, because my injectors we not upgraded. Is this True?
Even though my FICM is above the low limit for voltage, can it still be going out? I am taking the truck in to have the batteries load tested, so I will know if they are contributing to my FICM failing.
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So I have an '03 6.0 with 151000 and change. I go out to light her off in the morning and she fires quick and easy. Idles well and no complaints. But when hot shes sluggish to start. Now it's not what I would call a typical hard start considering I've watched videos on YouTube and guys are having a lot harder of a time then me getting theirs started. It's just not the same as cold it almost sounds like it's lacking fuel cause it starts real low after fire then with a couple revolutions it perks up. And this is without the key still in it. Again no idle or running issues at all. I've been trying to see if it could be my ipr? My ficm is new and never gets below 47V but idk what it is.
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