Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 - Grinding Noise From Front End
Jan 4, 2017
Ok here goes. I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
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I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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My truck has been doing great lately after the major surgery she's been through. She is an '06 F-250, with about 238k miles. I've noticed a few days ago that there is a grinding noise and feeling in the gas pedal. (Or diesel pedal..? ) I can feel it right when I slightly ease into the throttle. It goes away once I'm up and going. But its the kind of grinding that sort of worries me. It is also apparent when in reverse, almost more noticeable.
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Since I bought my F350 last Jan. I have several times had prolonged instances of a severe grinding noise coming from the front end, seemingly the left side. At slow speed in a turn (shallow or steep) a horrible grinding sound is apparent as well as a vibration in the steering wheel. At 9k miles a dealer said it was the wheel bearings and replaced both sides. I now have 12.5K and it is worse than ever. My local dealer says it is normal but that has to be bull. It is is worse after I drop my fiver after towing. It is a 4x2 with the 6.7 diesel. I love the performance but this front end issue is a real problem.
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My truck has been doing great over here in Germany, and I want it to stay that way lol. I know the snow is fast approaching here and figured I should test my 4x4(I usually do monthly anyway). After switching to 4-high and making the first turn in the open parking lot, I heard a lot of popping and grinding from the front end. I straightened the wheel and out and the grinding /popping continued.
I stopped, got out of the truck to try and lock the hubs to see if that would fix the issue. turns out the passenger side hub is locked up tight. I couldnt move it by hand and wasnt about to attempt to move it with added leverage.
What this could be? maybe a collapsed vacuum hose? but then I should still be able to manually turn my I hubs I would think.
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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Bought this truck back in September. I thought the ball joints were going out. So decided to replace everything i would think of. The ball joints, hub bearings, all the tie rod end parts, sway bar links & bushings, and the seals around front u-joints. Now i still have the same rattle. Sounds like a piece of metal rattling in a tube. Really it sounds like the ball joints are out, which i know they are not. Also i greased them again (Just to make sure) and no change.
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a few times when making a tight turn on hilly terrain or a hill on a road, I've noticed a grinding sound in the front of the truck and a vibration in the steering wheel. I've so far chalked this up to the hill assist feature, but today I was on relatively flat ground in a parking lot with a dip in it. While crossing the dip in a tight turn, I noticed the same thing again.
I've checked the tires/wheel wells and there is no rubbing, etc.
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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Ok haven't been on here in a LONG time. Sold my '12 and bought a DRW '14 F350 to tow our fifth wheel. Just got back from a 775 mile round trip pulling our fifth wheel. My dad noticed my passenger front tire was going bald on the outside. I said yeah it was pulling to the right and thought my tire was low but when I checked it was the right psi.
Turning to the left I was starting to get a grinding type noise. If I rolled my passenger window down you could here something just grinding away but when you straightened out nothing.
So I took it into the dealer and they tell me the outside tire wear is normal. I said it has 22,000 miles and the passenger tire will be bald on the outside in 4,000 more miles or less. Said they can't hear any noise, yet my wife can hear it, kids can hear it and people outside the truck can.
It's not normal for the passenger or drivers tire for that matter to go bald in less than 25,000 miles? Tires have always been kept to proper psi, I've towed only about 5,000 miles total with it. They are also taking the worthless rancho rebranded shocks off and going with bilstiens. I should have replaced them 10,000 miles ago. They are horrible shocks.
It really torques me that they have it for a week and can't find anything wrong. When turning to the left it's almost like bump steer in 4wd just not quite as bad but with also a grinding sound that you can hear inside the cab and can feel it in the floor board. Nothing evident but just looking under the truck.
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I have a 2012 F250 4x4 6.7L Diesel with around 114k miles on it. Jut in the past couple weeks it has produced this issue: At start-up/during warm-up it when I make a turn (left or right) and hit at least 40mph the steering feels heavy and pulling to the right, all of a sudden it seems to release and dart a little to the left. It does this for about 10 miles then it is fine. Steering is a little loose, 114k miles and previous owner had a plow on it but once it straightens out it is fine for the rest of the 45 mile treck. Tires are new Goodrich All Terrains, no visible signs of a belt being broke.
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My dads 2012 f250 6.7 shakes SOMETIMES at speeds anywhere from 30 to 65mph he had ford look at it they said that everything looked fine, all the normal items were checked. How can something like that just show up for a few minutes then go away for days at a time. He said it shakes the whole truck then he slows down it goes away then speed back up and its gone. He does need new tires and balanced but I would think if that was the issue it would be a consistent shake or am I wrong?
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I am new to the ford deisel. I have a 2005 F250 6.0 liter power stroke. it has been bullet proofed with EGR delete. Has an after market intake. An Edge TC tuner, and alot of extras. My question is why am I having shaking in the front end when my foot is barely on the gas. If i give it more gas it goes away as soon as the boost kicks up to around 2 or 3. It does this every time I take my foot on and off the pedal. It will only last for a second if i give it alot of gas. But if I barely touch the pedal it will shake the whole time until the boost kicks in.
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Just over 7000 miles all of a sudden I got this loud grinding noise in the rear end like a brake locked up. Pulled into a parking lot. Don't think it's brakes. Put the truck in reverse it got even louder for a second then it quieted down after that. Naturally this happened on a Saturday.
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I have a 2004 F250. Owned it for a little less than 4 miles (186k on the odometer) .. The other day making a routine run and the radio goes out. Stopped to check it out and found I had no power windows either.
Made it home, checked the fuse on the radio and its good and the the power window fuse is also good. Put a meter on the terminals and have no voltage going to them. What I need to look at???
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and am having a serious issue. The truck has about 240,000 miles and has been great until now. About a week ago the truck was running great and had plenty of power. I decided to wash it with my pressure washer (did not spray under the hood, however I did spray in the front wheel wells and underneath the truck). About 5 minutes after washing the truck, I took it out for a drive and noticed when I really got on the accelerator the truck would not want to try harder and motor got very quiet. Really all you could hear was the turbo whistling. Over this past week the problem has gradually gotten worse... a few days ago I had to feather the pedal in order to go up hills. If I gave it more than about 1/4 inch of accelerator, the motor once again would get quiet and the truck would start to slow down and would not want to work.
However, if I let up and only gave it a small amount of accelerator, the motor would sound normal again and it would pull up the hill. Today, I can do nothing more than idle back and forth in the driveway because the motor gets quiet and the turbo winds up if you give it even the slightest amount of accelerator. I have no idea if it's a coincidence that this happened after washing the truck, or if maybe there was a sensor that was rotted and about to die and I finished the job with the pressure washer. I already replaced the egr valve and have been running tons of Howes diesel conditioner and anti gel through it. The injectors were replaced about 50,000 miles ago so I'd hate to think it was them. The truck doesn't smoke at all either.
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First off my vents stopped blowing completely. At this time the thermostat was still functioning. Fuse 28 was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again shortly after turning the heater on. I replaced the relay and resistor and still blowing fuses. For some reason I tried a 30A fuse and it didn't blow but a few minutes after turning on the heater there was a burning smell. I immediately turned it off and pulled the fuse back out, which was hot. I then replaced the blower motor and at this point there is no power at all to the control panel. The fuses are all fine as well as the relay and resistor. There's power to the fuses. So it seems like somewhere between the fuse box and the control panel I'm losing power.
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While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
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