Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2016 F350 - Flutter Comes On When Truck Goes Under Load For A Short Period Of Time
Apr 23, 2016
I have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
View 6 Replies
been off and on having problems with my r/f speaker cutting out, not completely-i get a little noise from it. ive replaced the speakers in the front but found since i have the audiophile system, they sounded terrible. i removed what i believe to be a crossover from the factory speaker & reinstalled the crossover with the factory connector & tweeter, but spliced in the new 6x8s. this made it sound wonderful again. now i still seem to be having the problem and found if i unplug the radio and plug it back in it will work good again for a short period of time.
my question is can i use any ford radio that looks like it is the same, I like the ones with the chrome on thje. Or should i just get a kenwood or something. i dont want to spend a ton of money. and will an aftermarket head unit decrease sound quality since i have the audiophile as the speakers originally did without the crossover.
View 6 Replies
Was having some issues with my 2000 Passat not starting after only being turned off for a short period of time (long periods of time no problem). My check engine light came was on along with the Emissions Workshop message in the display. I took it in and had it serviced at my local repair shop. They said it was something with a temperature gauge or something to that effect that was causing it to lose a temp reading. Anyways, after the repair the car starts fine, runs great, the check engine light went off and so did the Emissions Workshop display. Then a few days later it came back on...still not having any issues with it starting but what's going on??
View 7 Replies
So pulling my trailer and 4x4 and the truck dies without any other symptoms. No check engine light all other electrical remains working. This happened 6 times this trip always while pulling a grade but only after the truck has been running for a few hours. Each time, no warning and once the truck has set for 5 to 10 minutes it start up like normal. The longer i let it set the longer I can run before it does it again. ICP is 550ish at idle, 200ish while cranking. Check the FICM before the trip and it was at 47.5 to 48.5v key on engine off and running. STC, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ball cups have all been done.
View 10 Replies
I notice a bad smell when I start my 2011 ES350for a short period of time. After that it is fine. Auto has just over 10,000 miles on it. E mail from dealer tells me filter needs changing. Somehow I believe there is more to it.
View 14 Replies
Recently purchased my first Prius, it's the v wagon.
When accelerating from a stopped position in eco mode there's a relatively severe drivetrain shutter/vibration for a a short period of time until I back off the throttle, almost feels like a clutch slipping with added vibration.
It's probably a normal noise produced by this style transmission, just looking to verify if this is true so I can stop worrying about it.
View 19 Replies
Truck has not been bullet proofed and has aftermarket air intake. Truck has 185km on it (purchased at 160km a year ago). For the Ham Radio guys out there, this is the most electrically noisy vehicle I've owned with S9+ noise while accelerating and S7 going down the highway ...
The faults show up as:edit Can be hard to start cold, takes couple of tries if it's been sitting for a bit (week or more)
No power when cold, that is a lot of pedal results in little power
Misses a lot when cold
Light blue smoke when missing when cold
When fully warmed up which takes 15 minutes of idling regardless the time of year:under load (heavy acceleration while loaded or not, or just in towing, or carrying) it misses a few times a minute, otherwise runs well
It feels like it just doesn't fire a cylinder if it were a gasser, or as if the spark plug weren't connected, but it's not a constant miss, it is intermittent. No load means hardly any misses. Load means lots of misses even running down the road. Should be pulling hard up a hill where it misses lots more.
What I've looked at :
FICM voltage 47.8 standing, 47.6 cranking and running.
FICM is aftermarket and there are no cold solder joints.
Added Archoil 9100 with no change
Wires to FICM are tight and connectors aren't cracked
edit Wires to Injectors are tight and connectors aren't cracked
Exhaust temps range between 500F and 800F during any of these events
Basic ODB reader shows no codes
I'm looking for a couple of things - I'm not much of a mechanic so this has to go to a shop for diagnosis and repairs. Before I run it someplace, what sort of diagnostic tools should that shop be equipped with to find out what's going on? Also, given what you know of the problem, am I likely to damage things if I continue towing activities?
View 14 Replies
2015 F350 CC LB FX4. I routinely haul 2-4k of cargo in the back of my truck for 375 mile jaunts.... I do this at least once a week. Most I've ever hauled in the bed was 5k and it rode better than it does with 2k in the bed.
The ride is awful and the bounciness and instability driving on uneven roads or corning at speed is starting to really annoy me. Would a set of good airbags cure this problem? Hit a pot hole while corning on the highway around 60-70mph and you better hang on... feels like the back end is going to jump off the ground.
On my last trip down it was so bad I actually pulled off the side of the highway to see if one of my rear springs was broken. And yes... the cargo is evenly distributed under my truck ARE canopy. E rated tires set at 80 PSI rear, 65 PSI front.
View 12 Replies
I have a 2006 f350 PSD 6.0l that blew the turbo a few months back. Has 102k miles. I had a large truck diesel mechanic near where it blew up replace the turbo. Everything seemed to be fine but started noticing a chirping sound that would start at 2500 rpm but only with a load like pulling a trailer or going up steep grade. I have looked everywhere online to try to find something similar with no luck. The problem is getting worse and I need to find out what it is. Now the noise has gotten worse and it sputters after each chirp. It is now between 2100 and 2750. The more I push it on that rpm range the more it will sputter. If I push it enough that it down shifts, it all goes away and drives fine although seems like less power..
I am running the stock program and have changed the fuel filters, batteries, pulled off and looked at everything coming and going to the turbo and just can't find anything. I'm not sure if there are some other gauges I should be looking at while driving but I haven't found any that look like they show anything while it's sputtering and making the noise. Also I feel like it does not have the power it used to have before the turbo blew and was changed.
I also added a clip of the exhaust. I put the 5" turbo back AFE. I'm not sure it's sounding quite right. Seems to hiss a lot more than I thought it should, Don't know if it's related to my problem.
In the video I'm hauling a 14' dump trailer with very little weight in it. 2006 f350 lowres - YouTube....
View 14 Replies
Ok I have this issue that I noticed on my new 2011. May sound weird but the wipers come on when I start the truck every time. Not sure if this is normal but I thought maybe I was bumping the lever thing but it does it anyway. I don't like that doing it cause of snow laying on the windshield in the morning will be a pain.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2006 F350. I have long crank times. No Codes. I have Autoenginuity with Enhanced Codes and everything shows fine. I replaces standpipe and dummy plugs. Glow Plugs and harness. I was hoping it not be the STC but I needed to do oil cooler so wanted to eliminate STC. Got truck apart and the STC Fitting is newer style so I'm kinda bummed out. Not sure if I'm missing something and as far as I have it torn down is there anyway to test what could be causing the problem? Or just put it back together and keep my fingers crossed that whoever put the new STC fitting in screwed it up. I'm beginning to not like my truck.
View 8 Replies
I am getting ready to go on vacation this weekend with my f350 and I was driving today when suddenly the truck shut down while going at about 25 mph. I tried to start it and it just kept cranking. I got it started 5 mins later and it threw a P0069 code. I drove for about 2 more miles and it shut down again, and started right back up. I'm guessing map sensor? This was the last thing I needed to happen!
View 14 Replies
A little background, this is an 04, f-350. It sis not start a week ago so I charged the batteries and it started, started fine this morning, (had not driven it for the week) Drove it to work, 35 miles, parked it, and it will not start.
I downloaded Torque and got a few numbers,
HPOP 1900 FMP 48V (repaired last summer) and FVP 11.5V.
Ran out of battery to surf more and look, so I am trying to figure out the app, and the issue with the truck. It seems to turn over good, until I ran the battery down, and the GP cycles normally, and the injector buzz seems good. Temp is in the 50's...
View 14 Replies
I've got a problem with an '05 f-350 with the 6.0. Initially I had a code for the #1 glow plug so I replaced the plug and the code was still there. Next I tested the harness and the rest of the plugs on the same harness and everything checked out fine. This lead me to the Gpcm which I then replaced. The first thing I noticed was when removing the old Gpcm I got a spark when removing the mounting nuts.
When I installed the new Gpcm the truck started fine and no codes came up so I thought all was good till I went to start the truck the next day and the batteries were dead. I thought I possibly left something on so i started charging the batteries but noticed they seemed to have a draw on them. I put my hand on the new Gpcm and it was very warm with the key off so I have the batteries disconnected till I can figure this out.
View 12 Replies
So I'm having a problem with my truck revving up out of no where. Happens more when I'm driving. It only shoots up a little bit but sometimes goes up 1000 more rmps. Happens for a quick second then stops and does it again. I've had the ckp replaced and it has an egr delete. Other than that it's stock. I got home and let it idle for a minute. The rpms fluttered up and down in small increments and almost stalled out. What is causing this?
View 4 Replies
Earlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.
The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.
I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.
Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.
Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2004 Ford F350 6.0. It is leaking diesel from the front of the engine to the ground. I have a video of this and pictures as well but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. What I can do??Puddle after about 20 min of running.
Dripping from here, left of hose....
View 11 Replies
I have a 2004 F350 with 6.0. My problem is the 4x4 will not engage from inside the truck. I have to get out and twist each hub to lock in the 4 wheel drive. If I rev the engine with high rpms the front will lock in with a big jerk. It use to lock in just by turning switch. What is the best way to fix it?
View 5 Replies
2004 f350 after i shut the truck off something was buzzing. So I popped the hood and found its the injector harness or injectors.Is this normal or something I need to look into?
View 3 Replies
The other day, I started having problems with the truck not starting when at operating temp. Went for a drive and stopped a a scenic overlook, and spent about 30 minutes taking pictures. Went back to the truck, and it wouldn't start. Outside temp was about 95 degrees.
I tried for about half an hour to start it, but all it would do is turn over. There was a work crew there with their heavy machinery, and I was able to borrow their starting fluid. One quick squirt into the intake, and it fired right up.
Although I do have an oil leak from the right valve cover, when I checked the oil, it was just off the full mark. The truck was parked on a slight angle with the driver side being about a foot higher than the passenger side.
2003 F350 w/6.0, 180,000 miles
View 14 Replies
