Situation is I have 2016 F350 that when cold, seems to have shift problems between 5th and 6th gear, where the engine revs between the gear shift under light acceleration. Once warmed up, doesn't seem to do it, 4th to 5th might be a little slow or maybe just my imagination.
View 14 RepliesI have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
View 6 Replies2001 F250 7.3 - warn manual hubs.. However, the wife has been driving the truck and I don't know how often she has cycled 4WD.
Basically if you choose 4WD hi it doesn't light up to indicate that it has engaged, if you drive for a couple of minutes slowly then eventually it drops in - not much use if you're already stuck. It will then select 4Lo. Coming out of 4Lo to 4Hi or 2WD is painfully slow - like 5-6 minutes before the dash light goes out for 2WD.
I was thinking maybe the electric motor for the transfer case - unless it is the transfer case dying.
Saturday while moving some items for the inlaws my truck, while moving at slow speed, reduced power to the point where it almost stalled, anti lock brakes were growling, right rear tire was dragging the brakes skidding the tire. maybe ten seconds then ran normal. got to stop sign and made a right turn and at about 30 mph started doing the same on and off for maybe 30 seconds. All the time Advance Track light blinking 3 times then pause, and repeating.
Stopped in a parking lot for a couple mins, did not shut off but drove the rest of the way home normally. At home we could smell brakes cooking, right rear brake disk was very hot. Drove to dealer Sunday morn with Advance Track over-ridden and ran normal. What would happen at highway speeds or towing my fiver? Bet they cant reproduce the prob, left no code etc. You know what that means.... I will update later.
My 6.0 has been leaking oil for a couple weeks now, possibly longer judging by the staining underneath. Very slow leak. 1 drop hits the ground when I get off work and go to get in the next morning. It never really reads off the dipstick a drop in the level. I had to top up the oil yesterday but that is from about a 2-week span. But I want to get it fixed. I've attached pictures of where it's coming from and was hoping to get pointed in the right direction. Also its a 05 f250 and coming from the driver side.
View 14 RepliesIt only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
So about a week and a half ago I went to crank my 03 6.0 truck up after having driven it to the mountains (about a 5hour round trip) several days ago. It was a little slower than usual but nothing too alarming, got to work and worked a full day, came back to my truck and it took even longer to crank. Drove to my girlfriends house to pick her up, only had it shut off for like 2 minutes hot and when I went to crank it it took two tries. From then on it was only bad at cranking when hot but now it takes 5-8 tries to crank whether it's hot or cold.
I took it to my buddy who owns a diesel mechanic shop and we hooked it up to his computer, everything checked out just fine, oil pressure was good, so was all injectors and ficm voltage, no red flags at all. So I went ahead and changed the icp, nothing, then he told me to change my aftermarket oil filter to motorcraft oil filter, still nothing, I also changed my oil filter drain valve and nothing.
When I'm attempting to crank the truck, after I hold the key attempting to crank it for maybe 8 seconds my oil pressure gauge jumps to normal. I have an ipr on the way to my house and I'm gonna try that as well. Also when the truck gets running it runs just as it ever has, no weird sputtering or stalling or cutting off. But when it does finally crank it puffs out a little black smoke.
I don't think it's possible but is there any way to stop this message from popping up in the info centre Every Single Time I exceed 30kmh while the locking diff is engaged? It's winter here on the Canadian prairies and roads are generally snow and ice covered where at live. Makes driving in town really annoying. On My '11 SD I only had to clear it once per drive cycle.
View 6 Replies6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
View 8 RepliesI've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
The ford dealer in Las Vegas replaced my turbo with a remanufactured one. Coming off the line (like quickly pulling into traffic) it goes flat on power until I get a few RPM's. Even with the old turbo it never did that and I drove it for the last 30k miles with it throwing the low turbo boost code. They put a little over 100 miles on it for road testing (I did have other things that they worked on. {4x4 2006 F250, 6.0 engine, 110k miles and I bought it new}....
View 4 RepliesI am fairly new to working on diesel engines. I was towing a camp trailer and got a P0299, Turbo Charger Underboost engine code. I never gotten any other codes other than this one when towing. I decided to pull the turbo and clean the vanes. Everything seemed to go back together good but now I hear what sounds like an air leak coming from the turbo area. The boots on the intercooler pipe are in good shape, I only loosened the clamps at the intercooler and the turbo. Left the boots on the pipe. I have tightened the clamps around the exhaust pipe connections with no change. I also seem to get a slower response from the turbo and possibly not as much psi as normal (according to dashboard gauge). I have driven the truck five or ten miles trying to work the turbo and have not gotten any engine codes to this point.
View 7 RepliesJust started to get a vibration in the last couple days. When giving it fuel there is no problem. when i let off the fuel it begins to have a slight vibration as it slows. even does it if i pop it into neutral. took it for a ride last night when i noticed it. wife sayed been going on for a few days. after just a 6 mile ride i crawled under and tried to check the joint but when i stopped i was not on level ground so have tension on the shaft but did notice that the rear joint was warm after just that short of a drive. not hot just warm compared to the other 2. it is a 2004 F250 SD 6.0DSL 4X4
View 2 RepliesOk so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
View 14 RepliesSo we have a van with the 6.0. It has a little over 100,000 miles. It has started to take longer to up shift. The dealer ( I know. but I know my service guy and he has done well in the past ) says we need to do injectors and fuel regulator plus a host of small parts to do the job. about 8 grand or so of work. Everything on the trans checks out and is supposed to be in perfect order. Truck goes well once up to speed but its getting the is the problem. So its parked so we don,t melt an injector.
View 3 RepliesI have 2005 f350 will not shift on the fly. With a vacuum pump it will hold vacuum at both hubs but will not lock up. The seals should be good.
View 11 RepliesMy friend has a 2006 F-450 and he said the Tow/Haul light blinks and the shifts are real slow. He has stopped towing now and it still drives.
I have read everything from toasted tranny to chaffed wire harness across tranny crossmember to the TFT sensor. My guess is the TFT sensor given his symptoms. If I am right the sensor is just to the rear of where the dipstick comes thru the tranny case. 1/4 turn and pull it out. Kinda like a bulb I guess.
Another question, is it necessary to replace the harness while in there as well? Is the Connection listed below the harness I am asking about? I found these parts on a thread from here:
Sensor (1): 3C3Z-7H141-AA;
Connection (1) 4C3Z-7G276-AA;
Gasket (1): 3C3Z-7C155-DA;
Fluid (10): XT-6-QSP
A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
We are on vacation pulling the 5th wheel. On the last of the three days driving the transmission starting doing something I have never seen. When running about 60mph and starting up a grade, when I push the pedal and it should shift from OD down, it bucks really bad. It only does it under those conditions and only when towing. It does it when the tow/haul is on and tow haul is off. Also, in the afternoons on the last two da,ys the A/C has started to turn off. The fan still runs but the cooling cycles off. After a while it comes back and is ice cold but then cycles off again. It only seems to do this when the engine fan is running to cool off the engine under load. I have it scheduled at the local dealer for a transmission service and A/C check....
View 12 RepliesA few months ago I couldn't get the shift lever out of park without trying multiple times. Then it was okay for about 5 months now it is back and worse. It is not bound up because of parking on a hill or anything like that and I press very hard on the brake pedal. It take s multiple times to get it out of park trying turning the key on and off and so on. The truck only has 86,000 miles on it and the transmission has always worked perfectly.
View 6 RepliesYour breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
View 13 Replies