Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Ticking Noise Coming From Front Of Transmission Where It Bolts Up To Engine
Jul 19, 2012
Got home from work this morning and noticed when I pulled in the drive and opened the door a ticking noise coming from under truck. Finally had time this evening to crawl under truck and investigate noise. It's coming from the front of the transmission where it bolts up to engine. It's a pretty much steady tick and goes away for a few seconds here and there. when you increase RPM's it's still there and I think goes away at higher RPM's, it doesn't get louder as you increase RPM's just stays the same level. Will get it to shop Monday hopefully and get this checked out and NoX sensor changed out too.
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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So I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
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I have a customer with a 2011 that has a ticking noise that developed into a engine miss with no fault codes. His mileage has dropped from 18 mpg to 14.5 . Heard the noise more pronounced in the left bank. Tonight I disassemble the engine and found the rocker arms by the pivot ball are showing signs of recent wear looks as if they had a die grinder taken to them. The rockers spear loose? The truck has over 100k on it.
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I have an intermittent noise that I believe might be transmission. Here are 2 recordings first with nose and second without. I haven't the mic behind the front wheel and I walk around the front to the passenger side.
[URL] ....
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My daughter recently got a '92 f-150 SCAB 4x4, 302 w/ E4OD. The trans needed new seals in the front pump, so I did those and replaced the filter and fluid while at it. Now it runs fine, but it makes a nasty ticking or clicking noise. It is definitely coming from the front of the trans. I was thinking it was a cracked flexplate, so I pulled the inspection cover yesterday, but could not see any cracks. I have heard that sometimes you cannot see the cracks, as they are tiny, or around the crank bolts, which are not visible from the inspection cover. Is this the case? Also, could the torque converter be the culprit? I haven't heard of this kind of noise coming from the TC, but then, I've dealt mainly with manuals.
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The truck always made a few strange noises after shutdown, but this is new and annoying.
Here's the scenario: Truck is warm and no CEL. A few seconds after shutdown, I hear all the normal(?) noises and then a noise that sounds like a vacume pump running starts and continues for about 20 to 30 seconds. Cycling the key, but not starting the motor will cause the noise to happen again and again on each key on/off cycle.
The noise seems to be coming from the top front of the motor. Could this be fuel pressure bleeding off? Is there a check valve that is maybe not doing it's job??
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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Drove my truck for the first time in a few months and there was a noticeable ticking coming from the passenger side glovebox area when the HVAC is running. I cycled between AC and fresh air and the sound persisted. What it could be?
Took a quick video on my phone, you'll have to turn up the audio to hear the ticking : 2011 F350 HVAC ticking - YouTube ....
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The code was P040 which said is for the EGR system so I removed the EGR valve. It was completely plugged in the top section. I cleaned it out and cleaned out the ends of the EGR coolers then vacuumed the port out and reinstalled the valve and removed battery cables for 2 minutes to remove old check engine light codes . I drove it for 50 miles and it runs fine now and the check engine light did not come on. It still has a loud ticking noise behind the glove box which I read can be the blend door relay so I will try to pinpoint exactly what is making the noise as soon as I figure out how to get the glove box door off.
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My dad has a 2012 6.7 powerstroke with about 84,000 kms on it. Truck runs great, works great, but has a noise that sounds like its coming from a pump of some sort on the engine. I know nothing about these trucks and told him I would see what I could find out before we take it to the dealer to see if its a warranty issue. Video below.....
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I can't get my exhaust manifold bolts off. They are in bad shape. The 10mm is too loose and 3/8 just rounds. I have had the torches on them too! Can the bolts be cut off with a torch?? Haven't broken any. Can't get the bolt heads to move. It's an 04, original manifolds. I am working the driver's side. I can't figure this one out. How to get this manifold off?
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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Went in today and the Service advisor said the oil pan was leaking around the edge of the pan and one of the bolts. He stated he ordered a new oil pan and referred to it as a "new design". I asked him what the "new design" was and he had no idea. Didn't know if it was a metal pan like the newer trucks or if it was another plastic one. Looking for oil pan replacment by Ford and is it the newer metal one or another plastic one ??
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I for the life of me can not even see the bolts to take them off.
2006 F350 4X4
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
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There are two bosses on back of hpop cover that have bolts holding heat shroud for the exhaust. How difficult are these to remove? The drivers side looks fairly accessible, but passenger side I am not too sure of. I will be back to disassembling everything in a couple of days, and just getting a heads up on it.
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While diagnosing a low power and misfire condition on my 04.5, I was measuring coil resistance at the injector connectors. Found 1,3,7 had open circuits for one of the solenoids. 3 bad injector coils and no codes, no contribution codes... Why?
Anyway, pulled it apart to find the spool valves of 1 and 3 came out with the oil log the small bolts that hold them to the bodies had broken off. #7 only 1 bolt had broken off and the other was there but loose.
I got this truck with no history, and Had a variety of issues, like a bad fuse box that caused a no start, massive amounts of water in the fuel, and it had sat for 6 months untouched before I got it. I took care of the previous problems search for my previous posts if interested.
So what caused the spool valve to get blown off the bodies? I'm not sure if these have been rebuilt or ever removed, truck has 135 k. Could it be the water in the fuel that seized the intensifier piston?
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I have a pretty good leak coming from the front of the rear diff. is this a common problem on the 10.5 ? How hard are these to do without a lift? I still have warranty left but will have to swap out exhaust so its almost a toss up whether I do the seal myself. Also was considering a new posi unit because seems like the original is about toast, might be a good excuse to swap a new one in. 2009 with 95,000 on it. Bought it a year ago with 70,000 on it, the rear was dry till at least 90,000. I serviced the fluid at about 90,000 and didn't have a leak so now a couple thousand miles and its gushing???????
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