I have a 2002 f250 7.3 and the belt is rubbing front edge of the belt and making a whipping sound at 65 mph. Have replaced tensioner, idler, water pump and a/c bearing & pulley.
View 2 RepliesOk I have a 2002 f250 7.3 4x4. The belt starting to shred and make a whiping sound at highway speed. So I replaced the idler, tensioner and belt. That was not the problem it still making noise so next I changed water pump. Still not it so I changed a/c clutch, bearing, and pulley. And It still not fixed. Right now the back of the belt is turning black on the wrighting like a pully is locking up. Also the front edge of the belt is starting to wear. I only have 255,000 miles on the truck and has been well maintained.
View 14 RepliesAbout two weeks ago my front tires started rubbing. I've been running the same size tires as long as I've owned this truck, and the PO ran the same size too. The rub is more noticeable when turning up an incline, but I've heard/felt the run on flat ground too. What would cause this "out of the blue"? Are my springs wearing out? FYI...I replaced the shocks less than a year ago, and bought the tires in March.
View 7 RepliesThe last week or so I have been having a screeching belt sound driving me insane in my 2003 F-250 7.3. After further investigating I have found out it is coming from my 11 month old GTP38R bearing. It has an aftermarket billet compressor wheel in it and I sold the factory wheel when I installed the Billet wheel. Where to locate a factory Garrett GTP38R wheel? All I can find online are Billet wheels or random off brands. At this point I would even trade my Billet wheel for a factory 38R wheel.
View 6 RepliesI have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
I have a 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 today I locked the hubs, put it in 4 low and got threw some mud to go hunting fine. got back out of the woods and took it out of 4x4 unlocked hubs and went in reverse 30 yards.. Now when i drive it makes a weird sound like a rubbing sound near the front axle. What this is?
View 5 RepliesRecently my 2000 F350 7.3 crew cab has been making a growling/vibration sound by the glove box at idle. Seems to disappear at speed/higher RPM.
Any thoughts on what might be loose at firewall passenger side area?
I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
I have a 1999 ford f250 lariat 4x4 with 236,000 miles. Recently I have noticed when I am applying the brakes it sounds relatively normal until about 30 mph then it sounds almost like I have a flat tire or I'm running over a rumble strip, It's almost like a popping sound but a deeper sound.. I'm not sure how to describe it. The truck also vibrates violently when I reach speeds above 65-70 mph. Until about a week ago I could go 100 mph with no vibration whatsoever.
View 6 RepliesOk, so I leave the fire station this morning headed home and my steering felt weird. About 1/2 mile from home I hit a bump and my drivers side front wheel started making a screeching noise. I stopped and looked out the window and it appeared fine. I limped home and as I pull in the driveway, I lost all my steering. I look under the truck and this is what I found.
Not sure what to do. This is my daily driver and neither of my 2 mechanic friends will answer their phones.
I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
View 9 RepliesMy 02 F250 periodically has no acccesories like electric windows, radio, and AC do not work for a minute or so. It has been doing this for awhile and seems to be getting more frequent and I am concerned that it might go out on a trip. It runs OK when this is going on and usually happens on the first start on the day. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch?
View 7 Replies2002 Ford F250 super duty 7.3L Diesel Automatic I crank but wont start and run.
Background:
I live in NY, last winter (2013-2014) fuel pump stopped working, I discovered this website, changed my fuel pump although mine worked fine after I did it, Power was not going to my fuel pump, took apart truck to follow wires to find the problem, wires come from the fuel pump into the CPU and Fuse box, relay is built in fuse box, changed fuse box, truck started, from early spring to summer ran without problems, in summer friend ran truck dry without filling up luckily he threw it in neutral and shut off engine rolled it to a stop, Filled up truck after a few tries it starts up. A week later the fuel filter o-ring rips and spews diesel all over engine, changed filter ran for a week and o-ring poped out again, changed to a different o-ring and ran for a month without problems. Then poped again, and again, each time approximately a week later.
Latest winter (2014-2015)
I start my truck to warm up go inside and forgot all about it, about 1.5 hours later I remember my truck is started, go outside to find it shut off with diesel all over the pavement, the o-ring blew again. I changed it, cranked the engine and it started and ran for 10 seconds before stalling. I turned the key a few times to try and have my fuel pump run, and it would crank but not start. Then it started to crank really slow,(batteries were now already on charge) it was below freezing for a good whole week now, found my oil heating plug and waited a day, cranked it the next day, cranked faster but did not start, waited another day and when I tried to start it the starter would not turn.
Today:
So today, winter is almost over(if you lived here you would understand) I find out I blew my starter and changed it, I replaced the o-ring with [ 90025K557Double-Seal X-Profile O-Ring, Oil-Resistant Buna-N, Dash Number 347 ] from Mcmaster.com as suggested on this site. I cranked the engine, It started ran for 30 seconds and stalled. I tried turning the key a couple of times to get fuel going(fuel pump seems to be working), but crank and wont run. My father suggested starter fluid, got couple cans, I was able to start the truck with starter fluid and keep it running until the can ran out.
It wont start and run on its own like it did the first time I tried.
I have a 2002 F250 7.3 with 130,000 miles. The truck was bought new by my father and is completely stock and never run hard. I was driving on the interstate at 70 mph and the cel came on for 30 seconds and went off. Not long after it went off the truck shut off and has not started back. That was around 12-20-16. I have put a new cps, icp, and ipr on it with no luck. All ford parts. I drained the fuel water separator to check the fuel pump and it filled back up. The truck is turning over good but has no white smoke witch leads me to think maybe the IDM. I'm a novice to all of this and until this happened new nothing about any of these parts but I'm learning. I do have the torque app if I should check some things.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
View 8 RepliesComming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
I have a 2000 Excursion 2wd. The left front wheel or something up front is making a rubbing sound when I turn to the right. Checked the brakes, they looked fine. Pulled front rotor off and replaced the wheel bearing just incase. Still making that same noise? I can't see any sign of something rubbing either on the frame, brakes lines, or control bars?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
View 7 RepliesMy 2002 f250 starts but has no throttle, I did replace the throttle body, still no luck, i did find a wire on the shiffter that had a bad spot , fixxed it still no throttle, code reader says it passes with no codes, I disconnected both batteries and waited 15 to 20 min, reconnected them, started the truck and let it idle for 20 min so what do i need to do now. I just cant figure it out....
View 7 Replies