Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: AC Not Blowing Through Front Vents
Oct 10, 2016
All vacuum lines are good, pump works, Canister isn't leaking, 4x4 activates and I can feel it, so Can't be vacuum leak. Replaced esof solenoid 6 months ago last time this happened, but this issue seems to be different. Watch this vid I made showing the issue.. after viewing video, do yall' agree I isolated the issue? If that one tug makes the air go through the front vents, that means everything else in the A/C mode selection works..
YouTube.....
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As the title implies, that is my problem. Can't get the AC to come out of anywhere other than the windshield defrost vents. Y'all ever encountered this before?
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2002 - 7.3 lariat, my a/c stays on max because of the recirculating effect. When I get in the next morning during summer of course, my dash vents take a few seconds to begin, default defrost till that time passes. Sure I know about leaks and redone all that to make my vacuum hubs work correctly. It didn't begin till later not right after that overhaul.
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After some diag I got the A/C to blow out the front vents. There are million threads on this issue half of them are never figured out. This is the second time I have come across this problem so will make this really informative for those who have this problem. If you A/C blows to defrost, yes most of the time its going to be a vacuum leak issue.
Step 1) turnkey on engine off, stand by passenger fender and listen.. can you hear the pump running? If it is your pump isn’t dead.
Step 2) does the pump run for 30 seconds then shut off? You may not have a vacuum leak. If keep’s running for ever you have a leak. Inspect all lines, especially those going down to the hubs for cracks. Also inspect vacuum lines under passenger glovebox.
Step 3) can’t find a leak? Disconnect the line going to the ESOF solenoid and plug it, if you pump stops running then your ESOF solenoid has an internal leak. That was my problem 6 months ago, replaced ESOF, A/C blows normally.
Try This Second! So my AC isn't blowing through my front vents again.... (more diag)
AC not blowing through vents and can’t find a vacuum leak? Take off glove box door, turn AC control switch to floor/defrost/front vents, watch the metal arm connected to the side of the big black box move up and down into various positions. I noticed on mine the arm will go down in positions (floor or defrost) But it will not move up! Which needs to happen to switch to front vents. If I push the rod up by hand manually, the ac will blow through front vents, and stay blowing through front vents even after I let go. PIC of metal arm thing connected to diaphragm, which changes air flow by moving flap inside the big black box
I am guessing the Diaphragm is the issue? The truck will continue to blow from the front vents even when the truck is shut off and restarted, it will stop when I switch the ac to a different position, it will not return back to front vents.
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I have an 03 F250 7.3litre. I have noticed the last few times driving while hauling that my vents start pushing hot air when under a load (example: driving up a long, steep pull) even if I have the AC on. It's starting make me a lot hot under the collar (pun intended) .....
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I noticed a couple weeks ago after starting the truck and turning on the a/c that nothing was coming out of the vents. I found it odd when after driving a few miles the a/c kicked in and started blowing cold air. Today I needed to put on the defrost and same thing, nothing came out of the vents. I drove around for a while hoping it would kick in just like the a/c did but nothing. I did check the fuses and relay. When you turn the control either to heat or a/c you can hear a clicking sound under the hood. It's trying to engage but nothing is coming out of the vents.
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My 01 ac has worked just fine up until today. I got in this morning to leave the house and the air was only coming out of the defrost vents. I tried playing with the controls to get it to switch but couldn't. I assume its a vacuum leak, but where do I need to start looking?
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I have a 2001 F-450 SD with 7.3. What the problems would for the blowing of fuse #3. The DLC fuse. I mean I know it goes to the cigarette lighter as well. but when not in use it still blows.
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The floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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My 02 F350 7.3 new to me trucks ac stopped blowing cold. Not air gap issue (shims have been removed prior to my ownership-I pulled hub and checked), the charge is good (according to the shop I went to for evac and refill), and the compressor's cycling quickly. I'm no HVAC guy by any stretch. I have a cheapie gauge from days long ago that I connected to my low side port (which I know isn't definitive) and it reads from 25 to about 40/45 depending on the cycle.
Additional info that may not be anything:
1) Where the line goes from accumulator to evaporator the foam seal is slightly messed up and I feel ice cold air coming out of the housing.
2) The line is warm before the orifice and cold after it.
3) The lines going to the accumulator are both hot (after taking it to shop, before were lukewarm).
4) The condenser doesn't seem to have excessive plugging and I have rinsed it with garden hose sprayer with no difference.
5) The air from the vents blows good, just warm.
6) I've replaced the actuator for the blend door already.
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The heater fan stopped blowing the other day. The fuses check out ok. What would be the most likely culprit after that? relay? Switch? Blower motor?
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99 f-350 crew cab. The A/C is not blowing cold as it should. Have already replaced the compressor and clutch, orifice tube and accumulator, also cleaned evaporator coil and put a new blower motor on, also a new blend door actuator. Also put a valve in to block coolant from the heater core. System has had vacuum pulled and charged correctly by my mechanic, he says he doesn't know of anything else to do, that it was as good as its going to get. Ive been in 2 more trucks identical to mine and the A/C will freeze you out, as to where mine will not come close. Temp coming out of the vents barely gets down to 60 degrees
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I had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
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Moving my worldly goods from California to Oklahoma in a rented 26' box truck with my wife following in our '02 F350 loaded to the gills with my lathe, mill, air compressor, weld and assorted machinery. Just west of Deming NM it started to blow lots of white smoke and down on power. Some rattling noises from the engine when throttled up & won't reach 3000RPM.
Had it towed to an impound yard for storage. Plan on sending a flat bed to pick it up when we get to Tulsa.
Any experience with a tilt back trailer capable of loading & transporting this truck that weighs around 17,000 pounds? My plan is to continue on to Tulsa & make arrangements from there.
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Truck is a 02' F350 xlt crew cab, 7.3l, 4x4, 4R100, manual transfer case, 125,000 miles.
So me and the family were pulling out of the driveway tonight and electrical smoke starts blowing out the vents. My wife had just plugged a cheap USB charger into the auxiliary outlet above the cup holders for only 30 seconds. I immediately pulled back into the driveway, yanked the charger out, and found it had melted a hole in the side of it. No smoke had come from the charger or the outlet. The outlet looked fine and wasn't hot to the touch. I pulled the dash off real fast and started grabbing wires, feeling for anything that was hot or melting. I couldn't find anything.
I pulled the cover off under the steering wheel and couldn't find anything. I never turned the truck off while I was looking. After a few minutes, I noticed that the cover over the fuse panel was warm. Pulled the cover off and felt every fuse end and they were all cool to the touch. The relays in the middle were all pretty warm(almost hot to where I couldn't touch them). I was still faintly smelling the burnt smell and I couldn't tell if it was just stuck in my nose. I disconnected the batteries and we had to switch cars(heading to a bbq).
So I just got home and I'm going to start looking for any obvious signs first. What could be going on at the panel? So far, everything is still working. I haven't found any blown fuses.
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My fuel filter lid o-ring keeps blowing out upon hot start, this has happened 4 times now once last week, I replaced filter and all was ok until Thursday it happens again I change the filter allis fine! Now today!!!!! TWICE I have to install new filters because the o-rings are blowing outside the bowl lid! I'm using the same BALDWIN PF7698 filters I've used for years, my reg. Is set at 75psi and holds steady! No spikes but I haven't been able to watch it when the o-ring blows out! Injectors and o-rings are new (<1000miles) no problems during operation at all!
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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I had to replace injector cups due to diesel in the coolant. Then I had to replace the degas bottle because it was swollen and looked like the michelen man. Then I had to replace the radiator cap (again) because I suspect that the diesel in the coolant had dissolved the seal in the radiator cap and it wouldn't hold pressure. Now I've got a bunch of new parts in there.
I parked yesterday, popped the hood -- and heard the radiator cap slowly blowing off pressure. It was the type of sound that you hear when a tire has a slow leak. I tightened the cap and the sound didn't stop. I REALLLY tightened the cap to the point where I felt as if any more tightening would cause the threads on the degas bottle to strip, and the noise lessened.
Unless I'm mistaken, a radiator cap is supposed to hold pressure to 16psi and then release all at one time, not slowly bleed off pressure with a hissing noise.
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So my outer axle seal went out on the passenger side again after only 4,000 miles. What gives!? I can't figure out why its burning up. My hubs seem to be working correctly. I've only used the 4wd a hand full of times since I replaced it. Any thoughts?
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SO, I've owned a 92 f250 7.3 for 10 years and it's got over 340k miles on it. Well, she is getting tired so I'm debating replacing the truck with a SLIGHTLY newer model.
I've found a truck that is a 99 7.3 powerstroke with a 6 speed manual and 260k miles. Knowing these engines I feel this truck has at least another 100k in it if the thing was somewhat taken care of. The issue is that the fella that has it for sale says it ran great for years and one day started blowing white smoke while driving. Other than this new issue it runs fine.
So my question is, what could be the issues causing the white smoke? I always thought white meant unburned diesel or maybe antifreeze. Head gasket comes to mind but it's not something I've ever dealt with.
I like that he parked it when it started having issues. Sounds like someone who doesn't completely trash their vehicles. Too high given the condition? Truck looks and sounds pretty good aside from the smoke, pretty reasonable condition.
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