Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Oil Leak On Driver Side And Whole Engine Compartment Is Wet
Feb 1, 2016
I'm having a problem trying to locate what I assume is an oil leak. It is on the driver side and the whole engine compartment is wet on the side up on firewall beneath the master cylinder. And the whole underneath is wet also axles and leaf spring and can't find where it's coming from. I have sprayed it down with degreaser to try to pin point the leak still no luck. Truck has 236k on it also new hpop and turbo pedestal and checked the valley and its dry. Right now I'm at a loss. I'm leaning towards oil cooler but would a leaking oil cooler cause whole side of engine compartment to be covered?
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Small oil leak looks like coming down by drivers side up pipe. I don't think it's the turbo o rings. Better not be. But could be I guess. Anyways. It runs down somewhere by the up pipe down onto transmission. I'm not loosing tremendous oil or anything.
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I have a '02 7.3 that has developed a severe oil leak in what seems to be a small line that runs from the drivers side head to the HPOP on the passengers side.
it seems to be leaking at the braket that secures it to the head on the drivers side.
what is this line called and where can i find one A.S.A.P?
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It is still a drip, but is getting worse, for several weeks. May be power steering fluid. I have not found the source. I think it is after the truck has run and has fluids operating under pressure.
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After cleaning entire valley on my 2001 f350 with 7.3 I have found what appears to be a small leak under the hpop drivers near the IPR. HPOP lines are clean and dry. Possible for IPR to leak at 120k miles and what will need to be done to fix.
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So I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
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I have a sensor on the top of the engine on the driver side that has oil coming out of it. I think it is called an IPC but I want to make sure before I go buy a new one. It sits right behind the power Steering pump. I am replacing the Power steering pump and hoses so I thought I would replace that as well. Also since there is oil in the connection what is the best way to clean the connection electric parts cleaner? By the way this is a 2000 7.3 4x4 ....
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My hood insulation is ripped up and as one of those projects I never got around to. It has shredded and pieces are down in the valley and in the engine compartment. Some of it smells now because it has gotten hot. I would like to clean it out and replace the pad. What is the best way for me to clean it. Do I take it to a truck detailing place or just spray it with gunk and take it to a car wash. Also if the latter is the answer then does it matter if the truck is hot. Currently the truck is 30 miles from any car wash so I'm worried about washing it hot. I just realized though I have my pressure washer with me so I could use that. Recommendations?
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I have developed a leak coming from the top, driver side, rear of my engine and I could not figure out where it was coming from. I took it to a reputable shop for diagnosis and they tell me that the rear leak is coming from the transmission lines.
The weird thing is I never thought the leak looked like ATF. They also told me that it looks like the stock radiator/cooler has been bypassed so I have no cooler.
Should I assume that the stock internal cooler failed and that is why the PO bypassed it? Also is there a decent write up on deleting these lines and running soft transmission lines to a aftermarket cooler?
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So I started my truck this morning and it sounds like air rushing out from the driver side of the engine. I currently have my ICP unplugged due to a bad sensor, will be replacing it on Sat. Also I have been having an issue with my turbo but I don't think that it's related as I here the air rushing sound when at idle as well at when driving. It seems to be a bit louder when the engine is cold but I could also be crazy about that.
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My 2003 GTI 24V VR6 is leaking coolant pretty quickly from the passenger side of the engine compartment. I have a new water pump in hand. If I'm replacing the water pump, would it be smart to go ahead and order a thermostat and metal crack-pipe to replace at the same time that I'm having the water pump installed? I'd hate to get the water pump installed, and find out that the leak is at the crack pipe.
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I moved my truck before I noticed exactly where it was coming from then after ward looked in the engine compartment. I had a puddle under the passenger side looks like the hoses going into the passenger glove box area (because I saw a few drops on them). The liquid is silvery. Any guess what fluid this is or where it might be leaking.
The antifreeze doesn't seem to be getting lower. I drove it yesterday for about 30 minutes and no crazy leaks.
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2003 7.3 175,000 miles...
Saw a stain in my driveway where you normally see AC drip. Opened hood and saw degas empty.
Looking around like crazy and find wet area. Where the coolant line turns down beside the passenger fender.
Looks wet near bend going toward running board. Didn't get to inspect much but I pulled back a bit of loom to inspect shape of lines and they look great.
What could be going on?
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My 7.3 has a leak on the front diff passenger side. It went into a shop for repair and they did both seal but the passenger side came out with a worse leak than it went in with. So just looked this morning and small pool of oil under the ujoint area on the concrete. Its booked in again to be fixed under warranty repair (place that fixed it, repair came with 2yr warranty) on Wednesday next week - was the earliest I could get.
Question - can i keep driving the truck? I'm making a wild assumption that I can unless I use 4 wheel drive. My intention was to just keep topping up the diff to ensure there is fluid in it. It's the work truck so wouldn't be good to be without....
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Is there a different battery box or better battery holder for the driver side without all the air filter housing stuff. I had an AFE Big boost filter and when I modified the stock battery box it still had the bottom section of the air filter compartment well after about 4-5 years I was cleaning the filter today and there was a hole rubbed in the filter from moving around and the pre filter is getting holes wore through it. So I cut the air box part off so now the filter will sit on the fiberglass stuff on the fender well. I ordered a couple of the new Blue Donaldsons from RiffRaff to replace the Big Boost filter. The modified filter box looks kinda like a hack job because all I had was a cut off wheel and the plastic got hot and now I have melted buggers all over it. I thought I saw somethin a long time ago about a battery holder out of a van that was just the bottom plate but can't find it anywhere now.
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Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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'99 F250 SuperDuty. Tumbler is recessed and the key slot is horizontal rather than vertical. I suspect the spring fingered clip has fallen off.
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My driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?
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I can't figure out the problem with my extended cab door. Driver's side doesn't open with either door handle.
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I noticed my rear brake smoking on the truck really just the rear driver side. I had replaced the pads and caliper and rotor a very long time ago. What I think happened is the parking brake got hung up somehow. The wheel was extremely warm and the reason I noticed it was not only the smoke but I felt some sort of wobble or almost out of alignment issue.
When I got home I noticed the smoke and extreme heat. I removed the caliper and the pads look still "new" and evenly worn. I did bleed the caliper just to make sure no air, I even put a spacer in the caliper and my wife applied the brake and they closed appropriately. Then I was trying to get the rotor off and no success. I did adjust the parking brake but I am not sure if you move it up or down to loosen it up?
I have used PB Blaster to try and loosen it up, rubber mallet while I turn it (although it does not turn easily at all), I sprayed it inside where the adjuster is hoping it would seep down between the shoes and the hub. I heated the hub up with a little torch - no success. I was thinking of using a wood piece as a butter and hammer from the inside out on the rotor but fear that will warm the rotor itself.
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I've taken the driver's door panel off, and unpeeled the liner. Now that the door is naked and exposed, I'd like to fix several things at once, rather than wearing the adhesive liner out by sticking and unsticking several cycles.
Here's a short list of some potential fixes I foresee taking care of while in there, how to :
1. The door ajar light. Mine went out over a decade ago, and the gallon of WD40 I sprayed into the latch did NOT fix it. In fact, it turned it from an intermittent issue into a permanent problem. I'd like to fix it now, as I miss having a light at night when the door is open. How do I fix it? Links, part numbers, tips, pictures, videos, search terms... all info welcome.
2. Bottom door rust. I don't really have much, but I see very faint hints of paint bubbling under the lower door weatherstrip barrier, which I have also removed. I've read about two schools of thought on preventative maintenance.
A. Pour oil or grease into the bottom of the door.
B. POR15 paint in the bottom of the door.
So basically, oil or paint? Obviously, one can't paint if one does oil, but on the other hand, some say that paint... especially thick paint like POR15, can actually do more harm than good by trapping moisture in the bottom pinch flange, or by creating craters or tunnels where water can burrow and then get trapped, rotting the metal away. What are your thoughts and experiences on this? I'd prefer a solution that minimizes the number of times I have to unstick the interior liner from the door.
3. I'm doubling the lower door weatherstrip with a combination of the older and newer designs. Ford sells the weatherstrip with clips attached, but neither those clips, nor the original clips, are really effective for what I'm trying to do. I've already done the rear doors, and made it work with the original clips, but they are brittle, and I lost a couple to breakage. Today, I broke three clips pulling the old weatherstrip off of the door.
I can't find these clips anywhere locally... I've tried every variety the auto parts and auto body stores sell, and Ford doesn't sell these clips separately from the weatherstrip... and even if Ford did, they OEM clips are not long enough to hold the double deployment of old and new styles of weatherstripping.
In searching this issue, it appears that a lot of people have broken these clips, which stands to reason with plastic in baking inside a hot door for 15 years. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would benefit from finding a good source of automotive clips.
4. Mirrors. I'm finally getting around to this, and this is what motivated the door panel removal in the first place. I need the dog bone harness that converts from a round connector to the flat style connector. Specifically, I need part numbers 1C3Z-14A411-AA and 1C3Z-14A411-BA. Ford didn't originally sell these dogbone harnesses separately, but included with the purchase of newer style outside rear view mirrors in case the translation harness was needed. Sometimes it was, sometimes it wasn't, so there would often be these unused harnesses left over.
5. Jimmy Jammers. Will they cause more harm than good? Does a better alternative exist? Thinking of installing these while I"m in there, but worried the door will be damaged worse as the thief tries to fight their way in. And, with body on shell doors, there appears to be much easier ways to break into an SD anyway, so part of me thinks, why bother
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